Need to pull Head L300

[rdub]

Hey folks the just is < loss of coolant , no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant< lots of white smoke (mostly noticeable at idle). probably need to pull the head off. anyone done it anyone have some cations.
im capable of doing it. just wondering the best way and the be carefulls while pulling and replaceing.

Thanks Rich

[thedjjack]

do a search there are some really good photos of someone pulling the head on this site somewhere.

[thedjjack]

Photos with notes:

http://www.delica.ca/Photos/thumbnails.php?album=98

[rdub]

Yeh , thanks I saw those today , they will help for sure . Thanks

[Firesong]

I pm'd you on this but wanted to post it as well.

Unless you are sure you want to make the effort. You should try this stuff:
http://www.rxauto.com/

It costs about $200 and there is enough to do it twice.
My friend with a diesel surf had a problem with the head
(not to mention his own head) ;)
I suggested this to him and he called them, talked to them
and actually wanted him to do it with them on the phone.
It was a toll free number and all.

Anyway, if your game give it a try. Alot cheaper than pulling
it yourself and it seems to last a long time apparently. We figured
even if we have to redo it in 5 years it's still cheaper.

Basically: Empty out the coolant, cleanse. Put the stuff in
and drive for 10 minutes or something. Then put the second
stuff in and drive. That simple. They have success with some
of the old Cadillacs which are renowned for cracked heads and stuff.

If nothing else go watch the video on their website showing an
old jeep getting fixed.

Oh, I get nothing by spreading this info. I know if I end up
cracking something in my deli this will be the route I go first.

James (Firesong)

[madmazda]

make sure it's not your turbo..... I've gone through three turbos in my mazda and boy oh boy there is a LOT of white smoke when you spin a turbo bearing....

[Yokohama]

I pm'd you on this but wanted to post it as well.

Unless you are sure you want to make the effort. You should try this stuff:
http://www.rxauto.com/

James (Firesong)

I have done research on that head gasket repair stuff, and I would avoid at all costs unless it was the last resort (meaning you are stranded with no way to replace the gasket). It is my understanding that repair compounds coat the inside of the block and all the coolant passages. It can be a real mess!!! It is also a toss up as to if it will even seal your problem. Doing a half-baked repair is never a good idea!!!

If you are leaking and it is the head gasket, then you should remove it and also check the head for damage and flatness. If you have a warped head, etc. then you should get a new one or have a good machine shop rebuild it.

[Super Exceeded]

I just had my head checked out at Lordco's machine shop. $395 to have it checked and cleaned up.

[deli1733]

Ive been having some disturbing thoughts lately... maybe ill stop at lordco today, thanks.

[sputnik378]

I just did a head gasket replacement in a 91 2.5 turbo diesel, and it wasn't too bad really.. I think that after having done it once that I could probably break it down and have it all done in about a day or two. If you pull the radiator after you get your fan clutch off it will make the rest easier. Don't forget to remove the drivers seat cover. Just pull the turbo/exhaust manifold away from the block and leave it all assembled (don't wanna go replacing anything there if you don't have to), and good luck with those bolts... They took the longest, and we had to use a wobbly attachment and a lot of patience to get em out and in. Don't hesitate to have the head machined. I did mine for just over $100 US here in New Zealand valve job included. Make sure you have a torque wrench for the head 10mm hex bolts and do em in three stages of tightness maxing at 95 ft lbs (or 130 NM) to be safe.

Oh and tighten your injectors (in the head) before you put the fuel rail and spacers back on.. That will save you mucho time later when you try to get it started. Took me 4 days to do the job and 3 days to get it started afterwards..

I replaced timing belt, balance belt, A/C belt, Power Steering belt, head gasket, exhaust/turbo manifold gasket, water pump, thermostat, radiator, oil filter, fuel filter, and air filter for about 900 NZD or $700 US.

Any questions you might have shoot. I just did it. Timing is pretty easy on this motor to btw. Just make sure you have a wrench on the injector pump when you set the belt. It will help you keep it from being a tooth out.

Ooooh and one of my favorites.. Use the starter motor to pop off the bottom crankshaft pulley bolt. Set it about 4 inches away from a block of wood or whatever to protect the front dif, and bapp the starter.. If not loose reset and repeat. We were expecting shit to fly everywhere, but just got a loose bolt instead.

Good luck.

Anybody else done a head gasket replacement on this motor? I am just curious how long you have been running it afterwards if so..

P.S. make sure you get the tightening number sequence for the 10 mm head bolts. Start from the middle and work out.. If you need em they aren't hard to find.

[Firesong]

It was said :" It is my understanding that repair compounds coat the inside of the block and all the coolant passages."

Nope, not how it works. The stuff circulates and only coats where it comes in contact with a larger heat source. Normal passage way heat with the motor won't do it. In a crack or head gasket it will seep into and stay put. No where else. The second compound goes in and creates a ceramic bond in there. It doesn't coat and make a mess. It isn't a pain to do the work on the head later. General misconception that it's a coat all thing.

Note: I am ONLY referring to the link I gave. There are a lot of other things on the market. I don't know about those ones.

Firesong