timing belt changed but unidentified broken part : any IDEA?

[lost2]

Hi everyone,

Monday, I changed my timing & balance belts/tensioner + water pump and thermostat. First time ever I do that kind of mechanical work, and I did it all by myself, without anyone around.

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The hardest part was probably to take the crankshaft pulley's bolt out, but I finally took it out with a regular wrench and a piece of pipe to extend the handle, while holding the pulley with my foot on a "strap wrench". The puller I had was also tight fit since I couldn't take the radiator out.

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But the main concern is a small plastic part I broke while screwing the last two bolts
I think it is a part involved in the fuel distributing process because the black flexible tubing it is connected to runs from the fuel injection pump towards the rigid lines on top of the valve cover gasket (or the other way around, I ain't sure). It also has a wire connected to it, so it could be some sort of valve (a 2 way valve?) Here are some pictures to get a better idea.

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As you can see on the second picture of this serie, I bypassed the broken part (look at the green X on a black tubing). I made this to test if the engine was still working properly after changing the belts (and it did!), but after running for about 15 minutes (the time to get back home from the friend's shop where I did the work), i found that the engine was idling at a higher rate than when I first started it (say: Regular idle rotation, around 850rpm. When the engine is warm, around 1250rpm). Also, when I shut the warm engine, I hear a sound during a few seconds, as if the turbo was letting an excess of air out. I double checked later tonight and it did the same.

Does any of you have an idea of what this plastic part is?

Thanks,

Davy

[Pacific JDM Parts]

Well done on getting the timing belt job done yourself.
The part is the vacuum solenoid for the A/C idle speed increase.The reason you idle speeds high is because you are applying vacuum straight to the diaphragm on the fuel pump as you have bypassed the solenoid.
One thing to i saw on your pictures was the radiator hoses.
The ones you have are the old style which are prone to splitting which can cause overheating and the cylinder heads do not like getting hot.And as you had folded the top hose back on its self it is usually in that spot where they fail.
I would change to the newer smooth style before anything happens.

[thedjjack]

not sure what the part is...

But your radiator looks like it could use re-conditioned or replaced...Lots of bent fins.

Also, way easier to work in there if you pull the drivers seat out and the access panel. Did you replace the balance shaft belt and tensioner? You should as if it breaks you risk taking out the new timing belt and you will lose 1 of 2 oil pumps.

(PS - nice job doing the timing belt yourself!)

Cheers

[lost2]

Yes, I changed both the timing and balance belts and their tensioners.

Are you telling me I can take driver's seat out and that there is an access panel underneath it? I saw the panel at the rear of the driver's seat (the one with air filter, power steering fluis tank, etc.), but it doesn't seem to communicate nicely with the engine compartment...

@Paul: Do you have any vacuum solenoid in stock? How much would it costs with delivery to Amqui (Qc) G5J 2E8, but, above all, how long would it takes? By the way, thanks for your detailed answer.

Is there any chance I break something while running the van with its vacuum solenoid bypassed? I'd like to bring the kids at school tomorrow, but can certainly walk another day or two...

Cheers,

Davy

[Pacific JDM Parts]

You can run the van for ever its not going to damage anything.All it means is the idle speed will be low when the A/C is switched on.
I do not carry the solenoids but try john@rockymounitain.

[thedjjack]

Unbolt drivers seat tracks 4 bolts....then 6 bolts or something and the whole other side comes out!!!! Great access.

Here is photos of when I did my timing belts (I left the panel in but moved it to the side.


Cheers

[Mbryant]

Kudos to you for doing your own work. Here is a link to the Delica FAQ section that helped me remove the drivers side panel
http://www.delica.ca/forum/drivers-side ... -2125.html

Cheers

[lost2]

Can't believe I changed the belts without noticing the access panel underneath the driver's seat!!!

You should have seen me with a #12 wrench, my arms deep inside and blindworking, to unbolt the alternator and power steering pump: I was amazed how crazy the Japaneses were to work in so small an area

Well at least I didn't break anything too important.

My last interrogation now: if I can't find a (or don't want to change the) vacuum solenoid (my A/C is not working at the moment Iand I didn't planned on fixing it for a while), I should certainly ajust idling to a lower rotation rate than 1250 rpm, isn't? Can you direct me to a specific tread about adjusting idling speed ratio? And what is the normal rotation speed for the L-300?

Thanks,

Davy

[RichD]

Kudos for taking this job on yourself! Learn by do!

[originalkwyjibo]

Try disconnecting and plugging both ends of the vacuum hose first. If the solenoid is for A/C idle-up it likely applies vacuum to the injector pump when the A/C switch is turned on. It's like a switch that turns the vacuum on and off. This means that by hooking the vacuum hose directly to the IP you are idling-up the engine as if the A/C were turned on.

[originalkwyjibo]

The airing down sound may be the turbo spooling down. At 1250 rpm's your turbo is likely spooling up already whereas at normal idle itis barely turning.

[lost2]

Try disconnecting and plugging both ends of the vacuum hose first. If the solenoid is for A/C idle-up it likely applies vacuum to the injector pump when the A/C switch is turned on. It's like a switch that turns the vacuum on and off. This means that by hooking the vacuum hose directly to the IP you are idling-up the engine as if the A/C were turned on.

Thanks originalkwyjibo,

I'll check that out in the next days: If I understand properly, you suggest to unplug the hose while the engine is running to see if its speed will decrease and than stabilise around 850rpm, showing that bypassing the vacuum solenoid provoques idle-up. If it works that way, than I can probably block both end of the hose to prevent from getting clogged, and wait until I get a new solenoid without using A/C meanwhile.

Davy

[originalkwyjibo]

Precisely.... At least as I am understanding it since I am no Deli mechanic.

[CVI]

That's called the idle up compensator. Previously mentioned, it pulls the throttle lever on the IP up to increase idle once the A/C switch is actuated to compensate the extra load the engine will need to drive the A/C compressor. BTW, the A/C compressor will only turn on if you have enough freon in the system. For a temporary fix, just plug all the vac lines and adjust your idle to 850rpms once engine is in operating temperature.