G'Day
- twinotter600
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G'Day
Not a Delica owner yet but they do spark some interest.
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- twinotter600
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Re: G'Day
Yup me burning diesel, kerosene, jet fuel and soon WVO in my Safari.
If I were to shop for a Delica, what would be the options to look for, year, model, etc. What should I stay away from?
Cheers,
Drinking and posting.
If I were to shop for a Delica, what would be the options to look for, year, model, etc. What should I stay away from?
Cheers,
Drinking and posting.

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Re: G'Day
very hard to answer like that... it all depends what you want from a vehicle, some things to think about though:If I were to shop for a Delica, what would be the options to look for, year, model, etc. What should I stay away from?
- 1991 is about when they started with the molded headlights, the older vehicles had the square ones, I prefer the look of the molded, though the square ones are certainly cheaper to comply and replace if needed.
- 1992 rear shoulder belts became standard, prior to that the seatbelts in the back were all lap-belt only (1992 they also added a rear centre brake light and a rear dome light, as well as front reading lights)
- Delicas come in both high and low roof models, high roof models are about 6'10" tall and may be a challenge if you have underground parking.
- Delicas come in either 7 seater or 8 seater configuration, the 7 seater has middle row captains chairs instead of a middle row bench, makes the seating arrangements more flexible, but at the expense of the extra seat, some people also find the benches preferable for camping (I am happier with the captains chairs, Super exceed models all came as 7 seaters, Chamonix models at 8, others vary)
- The Chamonix and Jasper models are designed as a "skiers special" with more durable fabrics inside and a heavier duty alternator, and dual batteries (I believe limited-slip differential is standard on those models too but don't quote me on that) the "cold weather package" on many other models gives the uprated electrical system as well though (but not the stronger fabric) and the LSD is an option on the Super exceeds as well (possibly on lower models too?)
- Automatic transmissions are considered at least as reliable, if not more so, than the manual transmission ones (also easier to find) the manual transmission ones are also geared lower making highway speeds harder to maintain, but some people prefer them for serious off-roading.
Beyond that there are many many options, and they were very flexible, the base packages are different, but not always relevant, a fully tricked out exceed can easily have more toys than a basic super-exceed. some of the available options are as follows (this is far from a complete list):
- cool box (fridge/freezer/hot box located between the front seats)
- crystal-lite roof (on the high roof models, lots of glass down both sides of the roof, with power sunshades and fluorescent lights inside)
- Front and rear sunroofs (rear sunroof only on the low roof models)
- limited slip rear differential
- Audio-stage sound system (extra speakers in the rear above the tailgate, as well as a built in karaoke system (not compatible with aftermarket stereos so generally irrelevant))
- dual dash pod (with altimeter and inclinometer)
- triple dash pod (as above but with interior/exterior temperature gauge as well)
- curtains on side and rear windows
- divider curtain between front and rear
- power curtains
- fog lights
- winch
- chrome bush bar, steps, and mirror backs (as opposed to the standard white (chrome was standard on super exceeds after 1992))
- remote locks
- cargo tray
- various cabinets/shelves/tables/storage boxes
- various dome lights
- air purifiers
- sliding side windows (instead of pop-out)
- roof racks
- ladders
- etc
- etc
(and this doesn't even account for the NON factory after-market options that many of the Japanese owners may have installed!)
As for what to look out for, it's like any 15 year old vehicle, no matter what condition it arrives in (even if it is positively pristine) you should change all the fluids, filters, and belts (make sure you include the timing belt!) and check all the other usual stuff (tires, brakes, steering, etc). Do make sure that your coolant system is in good shape too (many come over with completely clogged radiators), overheating can cause the head to crack if your coolant system isn't in good shape.
Compliance varies by province, most all provinces will require you to swap the headlights for ones designed for right hand traffic (most importers stock the replacements) many jurisdictions will also require daytime running lights which can be accomplished with the Canadian Tire kit (even though it says on it "not for mitsubishi") or with a little electrical know how and a fuse and a relay. Some jurisdictions (BC, and sometimes Alberta) also require side marker lights and reflectors, the tail lights wrap around enough to be rear side markers, and a quick wiring change can make the front side turn signal repeaters work as both signals and side markers, reflectors can be picked up at Canadian tire for $10 for a pack of all 4)
Different jurisdictions also have different rules about tires, they will likely need to be replaced if they aren't DOT stamped, and don't have load rating specified, standard vehicle can take up to about 29" on stock rims, 30" on aftermarket (wider) rims, and 31" with minor modifications, anything larger requires a lift.
- twinotter600
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Re: G'Day
Thanks for that. It helps alot. Compliance for the Nissan Safari is a snap here in QC and no anti-RHD problems yet.
The Delicas came with a factory winch?! That's great.
The Delicas came with a factory winch?! That's great.

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- professorpunishment
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Re: G'Day
Funny you should mention that "heavy duty alternator" - my Delica arrived with the rest of our shipment from Japan yesterday and it was dead as the proverbial doornail. Lots of checks with two mechanics revealed: a) There is a drain on the electrical system that needs to be diagnosed, which over time has degraded the batteries and alternator. b) Said alternator is not performing well enough now to charge the batteries.
Checked the wiki for a part number - nothing there yet. Any help out there on this? I need the thing urgently as my employer-paid rental car runs out on Wednesday next week, and we live in the country with two kids, so I need that van running!
Ian
Checked the wiki for a part number - nothing there yet. Any help out there on this? I need the thing urgently as my employer-paid rental car runs out on Wednesday next week, and we live in the country with two kids, so I need that van running!
Ian
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Re: G'Day
something is not right with that statement...There is a drain on the electrical system that needs to be diagnosed, which over time has degraded the batteries and alternator
I don't deny that the alternator could be bad, however I can't imagine now a drain on the electrical system could possibly cause such a thing.
As for part numbers... I personally can't help with that (though someone else may chime in with an answer) however I believe any auto-electric shop should be able to find something that fits. the standard alternator is 75 amps I believe, and the heavy duty one is 90 (if you have dual batteries you will also have the 90 amp alternator)
- professorpunishment
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Re: G'Day
Thanks for the info re. the alternator. I'll see what I can do. I'm out here near Ottawa. Not so easy to come across the right bits.
I'm not so sure about the theory re. the drain on the electrical system either causing wear on the alternator, but the bottom line for now is that the battery charges when the engine is running, but not enough. So, for example, if I take it out for a 1/2 hour run on the highway now, then switch it off, it'll start again five minutes later. But it won't start again 20 minutes later.
Do you happen to have specs on the batteries as well?
I.
I'm not so sure about the theory re. the drain on the electrical system either causing wear on the alternator, but the bottom line for now is that the battery charges when the engine is running, but not enough. So, for example, if I take it out for a 1/2 hour run on the highway now, then switch it off, it'll start again five minutes later. But it won't start again 20 minutes later.
Do you happen to have specs on the batteries as well?
I.
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Re: G'Day
That doesn't sound like an alternator issue at all, that's either batteries that won't hold a charge, or a heavy drain on the system.it'll start again five minutes later. But it won't start again 20 minutes later
If it were the alternator it wouldn't start the 5 mins later because it wouldn't have charged in the first place, it sounds more like it's loosing the charge.
If it still has the Japanese batteries in it I'd start there, get them changed. (again, don't know the specs, but take 'em out, walk in to anywhere that sells batteries and say "I need 2 of these" (Assuming the dual battery system)) if it is a dual battery system make sure you replace both at once, one dead one will quickly draw down the new good one.
Batteries are the most likely cause, if that doesn't solve it than there is a drain somewhere, those are much harder to track down, though yours sounds severe enough that if it is the case a multi-meter should be able to find it.
- marsgal42
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Re: G'Day
I find I do that a lot, not just with Delica stuff: "I need one of these, please!" - and change the subject when they ask what it's for.Green1 wrote:If it still has the Japanese batteries in it I'd start there, get them changed. (again, don't know the specs, but take 'em out, walk in to anywhere that sells batteries and say "I need 2 of these" (Assuming the dual battery system)) if it is a dual battery system make sure you replace both at once, one dead one will quickly draw down the new good one.

I had fun with Gumdrop's alternator last winter. Poor charging, which mainly manifested as really laboured cranking on cold starts, like an old car with a 6 volt starter. Then the alternator light wouldn't go out unless I gunned the engine. Then the alternator light wouldn't go out at all below 2,000 RPM. That was on the way to Japanoid to get it fixed. It hasn't put an electron wrong since.
I suspected a small electrical discharge, because the batteries seemed worse if Gumdrop was parked for more than a couple of days. The fact that I measured 0.7 volts (i.e. a silicon PN junction) across the electrical system with everything supposedly turned off suggested a blown alternator diode.
...laura
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Re: G'Day
That is often the key with the delica. If you ask for the part nobody has a problem, but if they find out it's for a Delica they immediately freeze and refuse to help you further...and change the subject when they ask what it's for.
- twinotter600
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Re: G'Day
Bad diodes in an alternator cause all kinds of muck ups. Bad diodes cause an unsteady DC current and can burn out everything sensitive like the engine computer and transmission computer. In the end, it is really cheap to have the alternator professionally tested.
professorpunishment, where in Ottawa are you? Could I come by some time and have a peek?
Cheers,
Drinking and poisting...
professorpunishment, where in Ottawa are you? Could I come by some time and have a peek?
Cheers,
Drinking and poisting...
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Re: G'Day
It's really good then that the Delica is pre-computer.can burn out everything sensitive like the engine computer and transmission computer
though I do hear that the glow-plug controller can be sensitive, but it can be (and frequently has been) replaced by a simple push-button switch.
- twinotter600
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