Headlights like...chandeliers?!!

[Morganizer]

I am the third owner in Canada of a Delica L300, and took on the task of having the headlights replaced with North American standard lights. James at Japanoid warned me that the replacements aren't particularly good, but I went ahead in order to comply with the law. The headlights are far worse than I imagined possible. I've never driven a car with headlights this bad (and that includes a 1982 Lada, so we're talking baaaad...)

Can anything be done to improve the beam pattern on these lights? I mean they're sharply cut off on top in a distinct hockey-stick shape, and there's all kinds of chandelier refractions on the road right in front of the bumper. Can I adjust the position of the bulb in the reflectors? Stick little pieces of electrical tape in strategic places?

[thedjjack]

Some people have played with bulbs and converting to HID (watch legality of doing this)...I have no experience as I have the old style squares (one of the brightest setups I have owned)

You can also add snow plow lights to the bull bar and be legal and bright if you want a cheap effective solution (you can even sell off the old lights if you want as the snow plow lights are legal DOT)

[Elbrad]

I just bought a set of brand-new Depo lights...having them installed on Thursday. They're the 100w instead of the 50w, and Graham at Coombs says the difference is astounding. I'm looking forward to them!

[thedjjack]

If you go with 100W bulbs UPGRADE your wiring with and add a relay...you will fry the headlight switch (it cannot handle the stock lights!)

Also I believe that the 100W bulbs are illegal by the letter of the law but not a 100% sure and not really an issue unless you go through an inspection or get pulled over for an inspection.

[Elbrad]

Ok...first week of driving with the new headlights, and I have to say, I don't know how I did it without these Depo lights.

Yes, they cut off sharply at the top, in the hockey stick pattern...this is to illuminate the side of the road without blinding oncoming drivers. There's a slight chandelier pattern in the front, but they light up the road great! When I flip on the high beams, the road in front of me is bathed in daylight.

I fiddled with the DRL system and scabbed in an LED setup instead of burning my headlights all day. Bright white from Can Tire at a cost of $30...works great.

The folks at Coombs did the headlights up perfectly, the wiring was redone and professionally put together. Graham also took me out in a couple of L400's while I was there...and he got me seriously thinking about upgrading next month.

So...Boba may well be on the market soon.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Depo headlamps rule.

....Can anything be done to improve the beam pattern on these lights? I mean they're sharply cut off on top in a distinct hockey-stick shape, and there's all kinds of chandelier refractions on the road right in front of the bumper. Can I adjust the position of the bulb in the reflectors? Stick little pieces of electrical tape in strategic places?

Morganizer, I would consider reaiming the beams, especially the high beams ~ too close.

Falco.

[Morganizer]

What do you mean, re-aim the high beams? Sounds like a good idea, but as far as I can tell the only adjustment is four Phillips screws that aim the whole headlight assembly.

Is there a way to adjust the position of the lamp inside the housing? I looked over the Japanese lamp housings that were taken out, and the bulbs seem to be fixed in position once they're installed.

[thelazygreenfox]

Morganizer
This from an earlier post re:100 watt bulb use:

Guys
I've been using the h3 100 watt bulbs for 6 months but burned out a few before I found the solution.

L300 Delica headlight modules can't handle the heat produced by 100 watts and will fry your bulb. There is no easy way to dissipate the heat except to remove the screw on cover. In warm weather a 100 watt bulb lasted 2 weeks (before cover removal). Winter use was okay.

Headlight switches will burn out too unless you relay the lo beams straight off the battery. See tardis deli's (Jay) relay wiring diagram.

The tiny size of the L300 headlight restricts light output so badly with a 55 watt bulb that 100 watt bulbs seemed the best (+cheapest) solution. L300 100 watt output still pales in comparison with new HID headlights.

I wouldn't recommend 100 watt bulbs on the L300 unless you remove the cover.

thanks
TLBF

[FalcoColumbarius]

What do you mean, re-aim the high beams? Sounds like a good idea, but as far as I can tell the only adjustment is four Phillips screws that aim the whole headlight assembly.

Is there a way to adjust the position of the lamp inside the housing? I looked over the Japanese lamp housings that were taken out, and the bulbs seem to be fixed in position once they're installed.

First you find a wall that is 90 degrees to the surface you are on, there's a perfect wall on the top deck of Park Royal South car park, by the car wash, complete with in sync parking lines to help you in keeping straight when you back up. Underneath the headlamp lenses are two groups of screws that are different in appearance, four of one and two of the other. In the case of the two they are a part of the mounting. The other four are for adjusting the aim: Two for the high beam and two for the low beam. Of each pair one adjusts left-right, the other up-down.

Regarding the wall at Park Royal ~ there are Max Headroom barriers on the approaches, my P25W (low roof) just gets under but I am not sure if a P35W (high roof) would, be mindful and make sure you are clearing when you go under. Last time I was by there was two years after I did the adjustment and the tape I used was still on the wall.

Low beams. Basically, you drive right up to the wall (like six inches away) and turn your lights on; horizontally tape the wall in front of each headlamp where the beam hits; add short vertical strips of tape, 90 degrees to the horizontal strips that intersect with where the beam hits; back up 25 feet in a straight line (use a tape measure); add two more horizontal strips of tape two inches below the first two, that cross the descending strips; aim your low beams at the lower crosses of tape.

High beams. Point the high beams straight at the upper crossed pieces of tape.

There are a number of threads in Delica Canada written regarding this and other related topics, here is one:

• http://www.delica.ca/forum/here-s-how-t ... -3949.html

And here is an off site link that Erebus found regarding aiming headlamps:

• http://www.autos.ca/auto-tech/auto-tech ... ght-aiming
  "Headlamp aiming is also regulated by Transport Canada, but each manufacturer has its own specifications so the lights will provide maximum illumination without blinding oncoming traffic. Typically, the low beams are aimed with the front of the vehicle 7.6 metres (25 feet) away from a wall and the bright spot of the light on the wall located about five centimetres below the centre height of the headlight. Low beam headlamps must have a cutoff so the light does not project up or towards the left into oncoming traffic. High beam headlamps are aimed so the bright spot is centred at the same height as the headlamp." ~ by Jim Kerr, 2 April,'05.

Falco.

[danielo]

I just bought a set of brand-new Depo lights...having them installed on Thursday. They're the 100w instead of the 50w, and Graham at Coombs says the difference is astounding. I'm looking forward to them!

Yeah those are the ones I've got, they're great.