Glow plug 'click'

[nxski]

Yes, the price is correct but that is my trade secret unfortunately...I think I already said too much.

You mean supplier does not sell full set at $110?
How much would the regular retail price go?
I just thought someone cheated you with fake or you got used ones.

Steven

The price is for a full set and they are genuine.

I'm trying to see if the old ones are still around but they've all been tested. I was also able to jumpstart the plugs directly off the battery this morning. If the manual system wears out the plugs too quickly I'll look into switching to the Mercedes system.

[jessef]

Manual system is the best if you know the interval of when to turn them off.

Many overlanders on expo with diesels (all different makes) remove complicated ECU/GCU systems in favor of a simple toggle/relay manual glow plug control system for reliability and simplicity.

If doesn't take much to figure out the timing system on the 4D56 ECU when it's cold out. Take those seconds and make a mental note. When it's cold out, use that time interval with the manual switch.

Like David, I'm suspecting either the plugs or the wiring somewhere.

On an L400 last year I found the wire going from the solenoid to the 1st plug completely disintegrated inside the sheath 1/2 way in between the two points. Would have never guessed just by looking at it.

Electrical gremlins are the worst and everyone, including me on the net can only armchair quarter back-speculate.

If ECU, plugs and solenoid check out, I would trace the wire. In fact, replace the wire completely with 10 gauge. You'll get zero dropout/resistance loss like on the stock wires between the battery<->fuse<->solenoid<->ECU

[nxski]

Manual system is the best if you know the interval of when to turn them off.

Many overlanders on expo with diesels (all different makes) remove complicated ECU/GCU systems in favor of a simple toggle/relay manual glow plug control system for reliability and simplicity.

If doesn't take much to figure out the timing system on the 4D56 ECU when it's cold out. Take those seconds and make a mental note. When it's cold out, use that time interval with the manual switch.

Like David, I'm suspecting either the plugs or the wiring somewhere.

On an L400 last year I found the wire going from the solenoid to the 1st plug completely disintegrated inside the sheath 1/2 way in between the two points. Would have never guessed just by looking at it.

Electrical gremlins are the worst and everyone, including me on the net can only armchair quarter back-speculate.

If ECU, plugs and solenoid check out, I would trace the wire. In fact, replace the wire completely with 10 gauge. You'll get zero dropout/resistance loss like on the stock wires between the battery<->fuse<->solenoid<->ECU

My plan at the moment is to test it with a manual switch. If that doesn't work it's either the relay or the wire leading from the relay to the glow plugs. In that case I will replace with 10-14 gauge wire, test again and if I still have no luck I'll replace the relay (it clicks and Butch says it's working but who knows if some electrickery is causing it to not pass the power along).

From what I understand the time delay is about 3 second when warmer out and more like 5 seconds in the cold!? If I'm off by a tiny amount I can't imagine I would be easy to kill them within 2 years considering how long some people manage to get away with having theirs in for.

Thanks again for all of the reply's!

[Luna-Sea]

Hey,
I am wondering if your amps are down from that
kick-ass stereo set-up and the L300's somewhat
underwhelming stock alternator.
You do a load test on your battery?(enough amps)
They are cheap at princess auto and good for
eliminating that variable from the equation.

I had a failing battery and for a awhile it would start but
no glow clicks.
Maybe charge up the battery over night and try with
a nice full charge. (take everything off posts when you hook up charger)

The thedjjack's idea of hooking up your old ones for a quick
test sounds reasonable (easy)too.

I thought for sure it was your ECU too,
hang in there fellah you should have it figured out soon!

Good Luck

[nxski]

Hey,
I am wondering if your amps are down from that
kick-ass stereo set-up and the L300's somewhat
underwhelming stock alternator.
You do a load test on your battery?(enough amps)
They are cheap at princess auto and good for
eliminating that variable from the equation.

I had a failing battery and for a awhile it would start but
no glow clicks.
Maybe charge up the battery over night and try with
a nice full charge. (take everything off posts when you hook up charger)

The thedjjack's idea of hooking up your old ones for a quick
test sounds reasonable (easy)too.

I thought for sure it was your ECU too,
hang in there fellah you should have it figured out soon!

Good Luck

My batteries are quite new and I tested them today...everything looks good. When my batteries died the glow plugs still clicked but engine wouldn't turn over. It's interesting that the symptoms can vary so much. I have a dual battery system with the more powerful SuperExceed alternator and while troubleshooting I disconnected the amp so it hasn't been pulling power for the last few days.

I really don't mind troubleshooting for days on end but my truck is in the shop waiting for a radiator so I went from 3 working vehicles (one is on a road trip at the moment) in my driveway to none and my job consists primarily of driving. It's a bit of a catch 22, not working means I have no money for repairs and not doing the repairs means I can't work

[nxski]

The summary of my problems... I'm going to try to take it to CVI tomorrow, if it will start again, and see if they can figure it out. Unfortunately Butch couldn't figure it out the last time I was there after a brief look.

My problem started immediately after replacing my glow plugs.
- The glow plugs were tested and all light up
- There was power going into the relay but no power coming out when ignition was turned on
- The battery has been tested and works

I turn the key and don’t hear a click and my engine turns over but will not start (lots of grey smoke pours out of the exhaust pipe)

I have since had my ECU tested and repaired (bad soldering repaired and bad capacitors replaced) and tried multiple wiring solutions…
- ECU was placed in my vehicle and didn’t work
- ECU was placed in another Delica and did work
- A different ECU was placed in my van and didn’t work
- The different ECU does work in the other Delica


1) Wire from Battery – Switch – Relay = click but no start (held for 4 seconds X 3 times)
2) Wire from Battery – Switch – Relay – Bus Bar = click but no start (held for 4 seconds X 3 times)
3) Wire from Battery – Switch – Bus Bar = no click + no start (held for 3 seconds X 3 times)
4) Wire from Battery – Switch – Bus Bar = no click + no start (held for 6 seconds X 2 times)
5) Wire from Battery – Switch – Bus Bar = no click + started (held for 10 seconds)

[thedjjack]

Sounds like ECU is OK...

So wiring check with Ohm/volt meter...

Chech Relays are working (jump them and see if they work)

Check glow plugs.///

[nxski]

Sounds like ECU is OK...

So wiring check with Ohm/volt meter...

Chech Relays are working (jump them and see if they work)

Check glow plugs.///

I've checked all of that (as noted above) and it all seems to work well. The engine started after running a wire directly from the battery to glow plugs but I had to hold it on for way too long and I'm not sure if it was the glow plugs or the built up compression from so many attempts at starting that finally made it work. I also ran a new wire from the relay to the battery and that didn't help anything so It must be either the glow plugs (which have been tested and work) or the relay (which was tested by Butch, he said it works because it clicks but there doesn't appear to be any power leaving the relay...loose connection within perhaps!?) Hopefully CVI will have an answer for me tomorrow, I'm at the point where it's not worth it for me to miss work and try to sort it out myself, I'm just going to throw money at the problem and hope it goes away.

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

To install a manual switch will be a last resort you can try.
Glow plugs will start to burn out if you hold manual switch over 10 seconds.
Just think about the situation you have to start engine in cold area with manual switch.
Probably you need to turn over 5-7 times in the morning.
It will kill your glow plugs very quickly and may damage your engine (Tardisdeli said )/battery/alternator, etc.

Genuine glow plugs are very expensive as you claim they are only $110 for total 4 through trade secret.
Here are exact price I have known so far, and I never try to import them due to very limited demand and we have good glow plugs in stock.
http://www.japanoid.com/store/index.php ... cts_id=840

In any case, we need to recover self-regulated-glow-plug-control-system to start precisely and smoothly in any kind of outside temp.

Manual switch cannot be encouraged and it will not be economical in the short run anyway.

Good luck.

Steven

[nxski]

To install a manual switch will be a last resort you can try.
Glow plugs will start to burn out if you hold manual switch over 10 seconds.
Just think about the situation you have to start engine in cold area with manual switch.
Probably you need to turn over 5-7 times in the morning.
It will kill your glow plugs very quickly and may damage your engine (Tardisdeli said )/battery/alternator, etc.

Genuine glow plugs are very expensive as you claim they are only $110 for total 4 through trade secret.
Here are exact price I have known so far, and I never try to import them due to very limited demand and we have good glow plugs in stock.
http://www.japanoid.com/store/index.php ... cts_id=840

In any case, we need to recover self-regulated-glow-plug-control-system to start precisely and smoothly in any kind of outside temp.

Manual switch cannot be encouraged and it will not be economical in the short run anyway.

Good luck.

Steven

Tardisdeli said that if I start without glow plugs I will kill the batteries, I know that they have installed manual switches before because I spoke with them on the phone today about my problem. Considering I have all of the components in working order I don't think that I will be needing the manual switch once the problem is solved however I do know of people who have used the manual system for up to 10 years without changing glow plugs in their diesel trucks. I agree that holding it for 10 seconds is longer than it should be and it's not something I plan to do as a permanent solution but I do need to be able to drive my van in to have it looked at. The price of glow plugs is irrelevant as long as I have good plugs in the system...I'm not ruling them out as the problem but they have been tested and have been shown to work properly.
Thanks for the suggestions and well wishes!

[nxski]

I started it this morning by attaching my jumper cables from the bus bar to the battery. I only had to hold it for about 4 seconds which indicates that I may have used too small of a Gaige of wire yesterday and that my glow plugs do work.

I'm thinking there is either an internal issue with my relay or a problem with the resistor.

[thedjjack]

Yes the glow plugs work...but it seems that the ECU seem sensitive to amps and voltage of the glow plugs for it ECU to power them from what I read in other posts....

All glow plugs are not equal I would follow the book and test each one for amp draw when powered.

I like having an amp guage wired in between the glow plugs and power on the dash so you can:
1.see when the plugs are powered
2. see when one or more plugs has failed (lower amp then normal)

you have almost inspired me to wire it in especially since the Delica does not have a light that indicates when the glow plugs are being powered...

[jessef]

To install a manual switch will be a last resort you can try.

Manual switch cannot be encouraged and it will not be economical in the short run anyway.

You may not encourage but many other places do.

Reasons:
1- simplicity
2- relying on switch instead of circuit board/caps that will fail (all electronics/caps do at some point in their lives)
3- ability to adjust timing cycle

Above are the reasons why many diesel owners around the world bypass their glowplug control units.

The two downsides/cons to a manual system:
1- you have to use your finger to switch on/off manually instead of the vehicle ECU doing it for you
2- if you leave it on for too long, you can burn out the glowplugs

Genuine glow plugs are very expensive as you claim they are only $110 for total 4 through trade secret.
Here are exact price I have known so far, and I never try to import them due to very limited demand and we have good glow plugs in stock.
http://www.japanoid.com/store/index.php ... cts_id=840

The OP said the glowplugs are good so no need to recycle the glowplug check/cost/your reasoning for importing them or not theories.


Nick... after everything you guys have done, I'm suspecting the wiring not being able to conduct the amount of current needed to supply the plugs/ecu.

[nxski]

I was thinking wiring as well so I removed the old wiring and re-wired with 8 gauge. That had absolutely no effect. That's my reasoning for thinking it's either a faulty relay, resistor, or both. Hopefully I'll have an answer soon as I have an appointment with CVI in 15 min.

[thedjjack]

Nick... after everything you guys have done, I'm suspecting the wiring not being able to conduct the amount of current needed to supply the plugs/ecu.

X2 60 amps takes good connections and wires (not something the 15year+ delica is famous for!)