Cant get out of 4x4

[Airgonzo]

Hey folks,

A similar problem just popped up in my L400. When in 2H the green lights (front wheels) which indicate 4H are continuously flashing. I have cycled through all stages of the drivetrain and everything else works normally: when 4H is selected the flashing green lights go steady and when 4HLc is selected the orange centre diff light goes steady, likewise for 4LLc, but when shifter is moved all the way back to 2H the green lights continue flashing.

From what I've gathered this is probably a solenoid problem. Can anyone confirm or deny this and if so how do I go about replacing it?

For the time being am I fine driving it in either 2H or 4H if I don't want the light flashing in my face all the time?


Thanks,

Kevin

[Airgonzo]

Hey folks, just wanted to refresh this thread as I'm still looking for feedback on my post above. I'm planning a trip to the Pemberton area tomorrow so I really wanted to double-check that it would be ok driving the van as is since I won't have time to fix it. Which would be better: in 2H with the indicator flashing or in 4H? Does it matter?

thanks,

Kevin

[jessef]

clean the contacts on the solenoids

[Airgonzo]

Ok. Thanks again Jesse. In terms if driving it, it should just be an indication problem then? Otherwise, I can assume 2H & 4H are operating normally?

[nxski]

If you get the vehicle on a loose surface and give it the beans you should find out soon enough.

[jessef]

so long as the shift lever is not in 4HLc or 4HLlc you're good on pavement. 2H and 4H are good.

[Airgonzo]

Cool. It might be a week or so till I have time to look at the solenoid.

[monnomania]

http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view.ru ... eID=318776

[mycale]

I have no idea where those solenoids are on my L400...my front tire indicators have been blinking for months! I just put some cardboard over it so it wouldn't drive me nuts! haha are those solenoids easy to find on the L400?

[psilosin]

What is the procedure to test that the VSVs work?

[CREGAN]

Just had the ol' front flashing lights on the stupid select problem pop up. Any suggestions? Do I just do like normal and instantly purchase a new vacuum solonoid as well as several other new and expensive parts only to find it doesn't correct the problem? That seems to be how I roll. Any advice would be appreciated. I have read this thread and the whole first part seems confusing and not really what I am looking for, and the last few questions seem to ask the problem I am having without a response. How does someone with fix this? Thanks

Craig

[Manitoba deli]

Usually, the vacuum switches pictured are the problem for the flashing light. It could also be a broken vacuum line, or a problem with the vacuum pot on the front diff. or the electric sending unit for the light. Make sure there is power getting to the vacuum switches (one is normally open and one is normally closed with power, and the opposite when powered up) Also, make sure the vacuum lines going to and from the switches are in good shape. If all that checks out, you will need to attach a vacuum pump to the vacuum pot on the front diff, apply vacuum, and see if the front engages. If the switches are the problem, and you have blanked off your egr at some point in time, you can use the vacuum switches that controlled the egr to replace the 4x4 ones that are mounted on the right fender wall. It takes a little figuring out to make sure you have the switches plumbed in properly(one normally open, one normally closed) but it can save you a couple hundred bucks, and make use of some dormant switches (till they burn out anyways)

Jason

[CREGAN]

Usually, the vacuum switches pictured are the problem for the flashing light. It could also be a broken vacuum line, or a problem with the vacuum pot on the front diff. or the electric sending unit for the light. Make sure there is power getting to the vacuum switches (one is normally open and one is normally closed with power, and the opposite when powered up) Also, make sure the vacuum lines going to and from the switches are in good shape. If all that checks out, you will need to attach a vacuum pump to the vacuum pot on the front diff, apply vacuum, and see if the front engages. If the switches are the problem, and you have blanked off your egr at some point in time, you can use the vacuum switches that controlled the egr to replace the 4x4 ones that are mounted on the right fender wall. It takes a little figuring out to make sure you have the switches plumbed in properly(one normally open, one normally closed) but it can save you a couple hundred bucks, and make use of some dormant switches (till they burn out anyways)

Jason

I have blanked my EGR so that is a great idea! Delaying the inevitable though. The vacuum switches for the EGR are the ones mounted to the side of the intercooler right? Can I just pull them off and replace the 4x4 ones with them? Then do I have to plug all the other tubes for the EGR?

Craig

[psilosin]

You can also get the identical mitsubishi vsv's off ebay for different vehicles if you search around. The 2 vsv's are identical but there is a different mounting plate (just use your original)...oh and the price is roughly 1/2 that of the L400 replacement.

[Manitoba deli]

The egr switches are the ones on the side of the intercooler,(there is one there that steps up the idle when a/c is turned on, leave it alone) you only need to plug the vacuum supply line going to the egr switches, the hose from the switch to the egr can be completely eliminated. You will have to use the original mounting plate, and you can just blow through the various ports to figure out which switch goes where. If your doing it yourself, you'll save some money. If you are paying someone to do it, go with new switches, the egr ones are probably just as old as the ones that failed for the 4x4, and will eventually quit also.

Jason