Headlight blues

[wookie]

So both low beams went on the van. So after searching the forum for hints I concluded it must be the daytime running light module. So after a while of searching I found it hiding behind the right headlight and it looked old and corroded especially the fuse holder. So I found one at Lordco for $90.00 - ouch! It listed at $150.00 so I assume I got a good deal. So I installed it tonight and located it inside the van out of the weather beside the fuse box. Thought I did a great job until I turned the lights on and yes, no worky! Then I did what probably most people would have done in the first place and checked the bulbs and yep, burnt out. When do bulbs burn out at the same time?????? ahhhhhhhh!!!! Off to lordco to buy some bulbs tomorrow.

[wookie]

the saga continues,
So I get the bulbs today - the H3 12V 100W and I install them and I find they are very dim. * ahhhhhhhh $!@^%& * so i start checking voltages and find its around 11.6V - Darn! not another electrical leak! So I check the battery, it's low too! arg! I do a bit of a load test and find it drops right off , I thought it was starting slow! Considering it's still the Japanese battery I thought it was time to change it. So off to Canadian tire and purchased a 700 cca 27 series battery! Weeeeeee ! Now I'm stoked ! Threw it in and fired it up and wow started a lot faster! Turn on the lights and .....the same, dim low beams. * swear swear * Double check the bulb boxes and verify I got the right bulbs and yep H3 12V 100W. I'm stumped. So i remove the bulbs to hook straight to a battery and what? Dim bulbs!? I then read the bulbs H3 24V 100W! They sold me 24 volt bulbs in a 12 volt box! Who does that?
Going to get bulbs tomorrow

[jwfchase]

the saga continues,
So off to Canadian tire and purchased...
... Who does that?

There's your answer!

[nvanadm]

the saga continues,
So off to Canadian tire and purchased...
... Who does that?

There's your answer!

Off to lordco to buy some bulbs tomorrow.

I think the bulbs were purchased at Lordco, and battery at CT. Not that it really matters.

[jessef]

While you're at it, check the power wire connectors at the lights (the one that the bulb wire plugs into).

I've seen them rust and become weak causing then bulbs to burn out quickly and flicker.

Replace if it looks old.

[wookie]

Lights in , wires check out good but i was wondering if there is a better bulb to install on the low beam than the H3 100W ?

[fexlboi]

I thought 50W is the maximum you should install with this old wiring. Otherwise you will fry your headlight switch even faster, or have you done this mod: http://www.delica.ca/forum/headlight-re ... -7815.html

[jessef]

50W max otherwise you'll likely keep frying them and/or melt the feeble stock wiring.

Personally I like bypassing the whole stock Delica lighting system. Too many consistent issues with the combo switch and drl's.

I found it better in the long run to use a pair of dot small lights for your daytime running lights spliced into a power wire when the ignition is on so that it's on it's own circuit and won't affect your headlights.

[FalcoColumbarius]

What is the legal wattage of headlamps in BC?

[wookie]

Oh i didn't know about the 50W max , I just replaced it with what was in there. CC autos did the commissioning so I thought it was ok?

[FalcoColumbarius]

You're probably right. It just occurred to me that I didn't know...

[ccautos]

The legal rating for the low beam bulb is only 55w but due to the poor quality aftermarket headlamps that project such poor light we started using 100w bulbs to give out the equivalent light supplied by the 55w in a factory headlamp. We do find that the life span of these bulbs is shorter than the 55w but have never melted any stock wiring ?? we have had some vans that have had poor ground connections at the back of the bulb housing and have had to replace the connectors and apply dielectric grease after repair to ensure the problem does not reoccur. Whenever we installed DOT approved headlamps we ensure using the original factory wiring harness from the connector to the bulb as the harnesses that are supplied with the aftermarket lights can cause even more connection / high resistance issues.

[thelazygreenfox]

Wookie/ CC autos
I installed 100 watt 12 v bulbs in my L300 lo beams but had to remove the grey plastic bulb covers to dissipate the heat from the bulbs. 6 bulbs burned out within a couple of weeks each with the cover on. The life span is the same as 55s with cover off. No problems.

55w bulbs suck in the L300s. The headlights just don't produce enough light. I know it's not legal but I was never flashed for too bright headlights. HID lights are still brighter but much more expensive.

Install larger guage wire, relays off the battery, modern higher amperage fuses and check the headlight connections if you install 100 watters. They are much hotter bulbs but you'll smile with the extra light ahead of you. Use dielectric grease on all connections. Your DRL relay is not affected by the higher wattage bulbs.

If I did it again I'd add LCD DRLs like Marty sells. Less load on the alternator too.
TLGF

[FalcoColumbarius]

The legal rating for the low beam bulb is only 55w but due to the poor quality aftermarket headlamps that project such poor light we started using 100w bulbs to give out the equivalent light supplied by the 55w in a factory headlamp. We do find that the life span of these bulbs is shorter than the 55w but have never melted any stock wiring ?? we have had some vans that have had poor ground connections at the back of the bulb housing and have had to replace the connectors and apply dielectric grease after repair to ensure the problem does not reoccur. Whenever we installed DOT approved headlamps we ensure using the original factory wiring harness from the connector to the bulb as the harnesses that are supplied with the aftermarket lights can cause even more connection / high resistance issues.

Thanks Glen... smiles.

[Profister]

I found it better in the long run to use a pair of dot small lights for your daytime running lights spliced into a power wire when the ignition is on so that it's on it's own circuit and won't affect your headlights.

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