Norhtern ontario canada. the family went off roading on a muddy trail (oct 11) and didn't notice any wet floors then until now( oct 26). any suggestions as to why the floors might be wet/soaked! did turn on the a/c a couple of times to defog the van and that is the only thing that is telling me the cause. we did have some rain recently and i thought it might be the seam of the windshield leaking as it was first the passenger side floor and really wet where your heals would be - not so much under the dash part. now the other day the drivers' side floor was wet!!!! i took the shop vac and sucked up all the moisture i could so not to rot out the floor. any suggestions for cause and fix??
thanks D3L1C4
***2014 - the problem was loose windshield wiper arms at the pivots.
wet front floors - help
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wet front floors - help
Last edited by D3L1C4 on Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: wet front floors - help
Lots already about it in here. Either use the Search function or use Google with the following:
+site:delica.ca "wet floor"
Eg.
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&sourc ... =&aq=f&oq=
+site:delica.ca "wet floor"
Eg.
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&sourc ... =&aq=f&oq=
- konadog
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Re: wet front floors - help
look here first - with luck that's what your issue will be....
http://www.delica.ca/forum/another-wet- ... -6510.html
http://www.delica.ca/forum/another-wet- ... -6510.html

Happy Day!
- wookie
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Re: wet front floors - help
http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12646
I'm going to do this right now!
I'm going to do this right now!
- after oil
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Re: wet front floors - help
i got a van doing that too. i cant get the dang screws to turn, the ones that hold the body panel on. they're painted in place...
- Golf Cart
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Re: wet front floors - help
I have the same problem. I got 2 of them to turn. I'm thinking the best thing would be to drill out the existing screw an replace with a self tapping screw of the same size. I matched them up with some at Carnubian Tire. I think it was about 4 bucks for 50. I'm planning on drilling deep enough to insert a very small easy out. I tried Wd40 , but if they are painted in like After Oil's, no amount of WD40 is going to help. And I did think about grinding off the head, but then you still have to deal with the threads left in the hole. Luckily for me the ones that I got to turn are the ones I can't get my 90 degree drill into.after oil wrote:i got a van doing that too. i cant get the dang screws to turn, the ones that hold the body panel on. they're painted in place...
By the time you realize that my signature has no real message or life altering words of wisdom, you're too far into it to stop reading until you are finished
- Jungle Jon
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Re: wet front floors - help
When getting those little screws out, an impact driver set is your friend. I ended up picking up one for this purpose when I fixed my front seals. This was after twisting the handle off one screwdriver and shattering a bit from a multi-bit screwdriver on those screws. Take your time - give it a few taps, take it out and check the top of the screw to make sure you aren't damaging the screw, tap-tap-tap, check, tap-tap-tap, check. Eventually mine broke loose with an audible snap. 

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Re: wet front floors - help
An addendum to Mark of the UK site's excellent advice for fixing the wet floor problem.
On my 1987 L300, with the rectangular headlights(pre facelift) only the outer headlight needed to be removed. There were four, rather than three screws that held the front quarter panel on. Treating the metal under the seal, which had some surface rust, was easily done with phosphoric acid. After that was dry, I painted with cold galvanizing, and then sealed the seam with 3M 5200. The screws to hold the quarter panel were painted after they were installed. Impact driver was fine, but I also used a screwdriver and a hammer to break the paint free. As was noted earlier, WD 40 won't do anything to help. A good rap with the hammer and screwdriver will crack the paint. Do that before trying to turn the screw.
Erich
On my 1987 L300, with the rectangular headlights(pre facelift) only the outer headlight needed to be removed. There were four, rather than three screws that held the front quarter panel on. Treating the metal under the seal, which had some surface rust, was easily done with phosphoric acid. After that was dry, I painted with cold galvanizing, and then sealed the seam with 3M 5200. The screws to hold the quarter panel were painted after they were installed. Impact driver was fine, but I also used a screwdriver and a hammer to break the paint free. As was noted earlier, WD 40 won't do anything to help. A good rap with the hammer and screwdriver will crack the paint. Do that before trying to turn the screw.
Erich
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Re: wet front floors - help
wow - sold the deli three years ago - sorry folks. anyway, so funny someone just sent a reply to my super old thread, then i thought for posterity, and to give the ACTUAL answer to the problem, here's what was causing it...
LOOSE WINDSHIELD WIPER ARMS.
after i checked everything else, i grabbed the windshield wipers as is to jokingly tear them off, and noticed they were loose at the round black gasket at the base. disassembled the whole thing, put some lithium grease in there, tightened it all up, and no issues aside from still being a gutless van for a growing family. Driving a 2003 yukon xl since then. GM is not as 'cool', but parts are cheaper :) i can pull a camper trailer and dont need to worry about blowing the engine on a hill.
LOOSE WINDSHIELD WIPER ARMS.
after i checked everything else, i grabbed the windshield wipers as is to jokingly tear them off, and noticed they were loose at the round black gasket at the base. disassembled the whole thing, put some lithium grease in there, tightened it all up, and no issues aside from still being a gutless van for a growing family. Driving a 2003 yukon xl since then. GM is not as 'cool', but parts are cheaper :) i can pull a camper trailer and dont need to worry about blowing the engine on a hill.