I have wanted to post, for quite some time now, on our oh-so happy experiences of running our Delica's on waste vegetable oil. I have procrastinated as I hoped to find the detailed pictures taken of my second, and neater, veggie conversion. A SD memory card is such a tiny item to misplace in a horribly cluttered shop like mine, and I'm thoroughly disappointed in myself. Got over it of course. :D Have had a good two years injured and now that I'm repaired I can't wait to tackle my disaster area.
Was shocked/pleased to see just how much money was saved, and how much less dino fuel was purchased, after doing all the tax receipts for 2006.
Best Regards,
Kevin
Choices
Biodiesel
Try making a litre or 2 of biodiesel at home, lots of instructions on the web. I did, didn't like it: harmful chemicals, methanol costs more to ship to our community then to buy, waste esters and soapy water left over, and untreated biodiesel clouds up at -11c. I stuck mine in the freezer along with some WVO, which doesn't thicken noticeably, but the biodiesel clouded up in 1/2 hr and gels overnight.
Biodiesel does not require you to convert your diesel vehicle; just fill like normal with washed and filtered biodiesel. If you run 100% biodiesel on a JDM consider changing all original fuel lines as they will break down. Also keep an eye on the paint on the inside of your original tank, if it breaks down your filters will clog fast.
Biodiesel is well suited to community use and coops. Having helped construct one biodiesel reactor, I can say it is a fun and rewarding project.
WVO – Waste Vegetable Oil
Your diesel vehicle requires conversion to run WVO; you have a choice between single tank systems and two tank system. Processed WVO, and new vegetable oil, can be mixed with your diesel.
Single tank systems would work fine in Northern Australia and Mexico. There is also plenty of information on the internet of the harmful effects of starting a cold diesel engine on only vegetable oil. Two tank systems allow you operate on WVO and flush your fuel system with diesel before shutting down for more then an hour. I realized lately that I drink far more milk then diesel.
My Conversions
The converter has a 20 amp glow plug, the yellow wire, for quick heat up; and solenoid in the back, to switch fuels, black with 3 red wires and 1 white wire on top to a thermocouple.
Wiring and plumbing diagrams of the Gocanola system.
I considered the Racor electronic heater, http://www.parker.com/racor/spn_product.html not cheap but a simple solution. My Delica didn't have a block heater.
I installed a lower radiator AC heater for quick engine warm-up in cold weather, think I have plugged it in about 4 times it’s been so mild and starting hasn’t been problem. After a couple of minutes on diesel the Van starts instantly, even in freezing weather.
I originally purchased two converters from Gocanola.com (he modified and simplified his Geasecar system, the third system he has personally used). They include everything but the wire runs and hoses. They gave me the wiring and pink heater hose for the first van, cause I bought 3 kits. My other kits didn't come with; dash switch, wiring or hoses. The converter includes glow plug, solenoid, thermocouple, relay, fuse block, and should include a switch.
With our mild weather I didn't install-in tank heating, a necessity in colder climates.
I bought 2 conversion units the first time and got a better price, because I decided a self fabricated model might cause headaches down the road. Four years ago I soldered up a copper assembly, with a copper coolant jacket over a 3/8" copper oil line a buddy made to fit his landcruiser. He has been using it since May 05 only as diesel preheater as he hasn't had the time to finish his conversion. He spent well over $250, not including our labor. Considering the already extensive fiddling required I decide to purchase a WVO system. I have spent a little less than $2000 on my entire set-up, including a 2nd converted vehicle, and have saved well over $3000 considering the oil used already. That’s mostly a guess, based on barrels of WVO used, but the savings may have been greater.
The converter is basically a heater exchanger milled out of aluminum block, the pink lines are taped into the rear heater core lines, the black top line is the diesel supply line, the clear braided line is WVO oil supply; 1/2" I.D. for good flow, the black lower line is the fuel return to converter, and the line with the glass filter is the supply to the fuel pump.
My re-installed converter,
Automatic Delica’s come with two tanks; the rear tanks is the larger of the two and combined with a 53 litre spare tank, a Canadian Tire flo N' go duramax, in the back gives us greater range. We have driven over 600 Km's out of town on WVO only; my teenage daughter even did the fill ups. I got that tank because I don't want to chance any spills.
Separating the two tanks was easy, but they shared venting at first, which when my wife or kids did the WVO filling, and always having to squeeze that extra bit into the tank, it then flowed into the diesel tank. I recently vented the diesel to the filler only and install a check valve. The WVO oil has a 5/8 vent line up to a marine fuel vent up at the main filler cap. My only challenge left is to separate the fuel gauges, to show the level on the tank which I'm running.
Picture of fitting my second Delica's WVO tank. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/87/25740 ... 15a7_b.jpg This tank and skid plate are soon to be painted - that's a rusty 2002 Jeep YJ's tank under a nicer 16 year old Delica. Also the tank came with a plastic tube installed in the filler neck reducing the tank volume by 4-5 gallons. The second tank was filled up via a marine gas cap that I tucked between the rear bumper and the nudge bar. It worked, but was ugly. Plan to put a angled, and vented, marine filler into the body panel in the rear edge; with the hose running down in the space where the jack resides - but on the opposite side. It's only a $29 filler, but the store here can order me a much nicer locking painted or chrome cap. I did plenty of measuring in that area, originally figured on installing a heated WVO filter in that area. In my van I can carry close to 130 liters of WVO easily, even more if I throw in a couple of 20 liter jerry cans.
New Filler, yes it does say GAS on the cap,
Painted tank ready to bolt up,
Filling and venting lines with heat shielding,
My WVO tanks clearance,
My new WVO guage (never did use that leveling gizmo - if anybody wants it it'll be free to a good home),
One warning though, the waste canola oil dissolved the paint inside my, first Delica's, WVO tank plugging the filter. I dropped and power washed the tank, flushing all lines. Less then a month later I dropped the tanks and cleaned them again just to feel better. Also have drained the near empty tanks, into a clean container, a couple of times; looking for sludge, dirt, etc. The easiest way, to check, is to remove the drain plug/bolt on the bottom of your tank and drain some fuel into a clean container. You could also pull your fuel filter and have a good look at it. If you have been running WVO or biodiesel for awhile, and you didn't find any leftovers in the bucket, I would recommend dropping a tank to check the lining. My YJ tank doesn't have a drain though, and is bare metal on the inside - and had a large amount of gravel inside the tank at first. Really don't know how so much dirt got inside that tank, where and how was it being filled?
So those of you concerned with lower sulphur diesel, or 100% biodiesel, may have a real concern if you drive an older Delica. I know, there all older.
Processing in a Nutshell
I pour my waste oil through 2 layers of cheese cloth (the good stuff by the bolt, strapped over the largest funnel I could find) to fill the first storage barrel(s) (taking out the chewy bits and leaving grease), using a 120v water heater element to heat to 90c plus (de-watering and faster filtering), then I pump it with a Liberty model 331 pump; freebie! Then through to clear bowl, stainless mesh filters designed for water filtering, at 1000 and 400 mesh, they cost $75 apiece but work super. Money is very well spent on Rusco filter (a spin down sand filter – mine’s a model 2-200STSS-F with a 2B housing) with a 1000 mesh stainless screen as the first (pre) filter. It filters out all the big stuff first, and filters fast, and when the screen is grudged up - just open the ball valve on the bottom of the housing to clean the screen. The third filter is a 5 micron cellulose water filter from Wal-Mart ($24 housing and filter media).
I let it settle for a few days in my filling barrel, and using a fill rite pump, bought off 'that site', a racor fuel dispensing filter ( ¾” housing $33 - HHO7500 and filter $12- FDW3825) with 8 meters of hose attached to fill the van. I have installed a heating blanket on the racor filter.
Darn oil can fill slowly in this colder weather. I do add half a liter of diesel conditioner to each processed barrel.
The exhaust smells tasty running on Chinese restaurant oil. Some restaurants cool used deep frying oil with the grille grease, and that’s a pain.
Best gift for a friend going veggie - a huge bag of kitty litter
Though, you'll find you drive more knowing you don't have to pay for fuel; and of course always getting asked to drive; skiing, out of town shopping, and even work trips to the Island. I warn em' though; make fun of my van and you'll be walking back.
Install Suggestions
Have to add that when you break the job into individual components, it's convenient and efficient.
1. Map out the whole system for your rig. Maybe map out your WVO treatment setup.
2. Manufacture any brackets, etc, you may need and test fit everything.
3. Wire in all electrical, relays, glow plugs, diesel/WVO switch, tank gauge, and of course inline fuses. Don't make it hot yet.
4. Mount your (spotlessly cleaned) converter and plumb into your heaters lines. Warning; heater hose is a darn tight fit on the driver’s side of the block. It's a good time to flush and change you rad fluid, if you haven't yet. I like the idea of running the converter hot, before plumbing fuel in, to check for leaks. Also you can test the function of your thermocouple; you want to make sure you have the right temperature switching range.
5. Install a second tank (you may want to tackle this job earlier, depending on the time required) and plumb to the converter. WVO filling and tank venting needs careful consideration too. I hate the idea of a WVO tank inside your rig (spills happen, stink and stain), but a marine tidy tank is an easy install. WVO tank level gauge install should be finalized. Princess Auto is a good source of gauges.
6. Run all WVO and diesel lines, important: install all new fuel lines! Install filter. Change diesel filter if you haven't. Test wiring, relay, warning lights, and glow plug; make it hot captain. Add some veggie and purge lines of air from both tanks, suck up tons just to be sure - it all can go back in!
7. Filler' up and drive around with a new level of self satisfaction. Your carbon footprint is now far lower then ever before, unless you ride a bike.
My first install that was all done in about 12 hours with help, the second install was broken down into: steps 1, 2, 3 - few hours, step 4 an hour plus. Step 5, 6, 7 about 8 hours to running without rushing anything. I also have dropped my second Delica's WVO tank to install a better filling setup. Man its nerve racking planning to drill a 2 1/8" hole in your Delica's body panel! I now have a 2 inch paint chip for Delica gray, if anybody needs a paint color match.
Anybody will be pleased and satisfied if they start burning biodiesel or WVO. In the spirit of these alternate fuel choices; please ask anybody who has taken the plunge and they would be very willing too help. Myself included.
Motivation
Look at what you send on gas a year.
Run WVO; reduce the above amount by 90%.
Take that 90%, or more, and happily spend this found money on your Rig (family, education, charity, etc, etc :) ).
Repeat often.
Sample of Veggie related links;
Biodiesel links,
My Favorite - http://journeytoforever.org/ - most comprehensive site I've found on all things veggie. A link heavy site!
http://biodieselsolutions.com/products/products.asp - bioreactors
http://www.homebiodieselkits.com/ - more reactors
http://www.greenfuels.org/
http://www.nonprofitfuel.ca/
http://www.ecofuels.ca/
http://www.biodieselnow.com/default.aspx
http://www.thebiggreenbus.org/
http://www.bcsea.org/sustainableenergy/biodiesel.asp
http://lifeaftertheoilcrash.net/
http://www.transcanadabiodiesel.com/
http://www.smarterfuel.com/
http://www.biodiesel.org/
http://www.biofuels.fsnet.co.uk/biobiz.htm
http://www.greenincubator.com/aboutbiodiesel/
http://www.biodieselsolutions.ca/
http://www.pipeline.to/biodiesel/
http://www.canadacleanfuels.com/biodiesel.html
http://www.eya.ca/biodiesel/
http://www.dieselsecret.com/howitworks.html - snake oil or miracle product, I hope to order some soon.
http://www.canola-council.org/biodiesel/
http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=cfrm&s=447609751
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/
http://www.biodiesel.appstate.edu/
WVO systems,
http://www.frybrid.com/parts.htm - the best IMO.
http://www.vegistroke.com/ - get to help a buddy put one in this summer (when his warranty expires)
http://www.plantdrive.com/ - seen two installed, looks good.
http://goldenfuelsystems.com/ - seen one of these. $$$
http://www.elsbett.com/engl/index.htm
http://www.fattywagons.com/
http://www.greaseworks.org/
http://www.veggiegas.ca/
http://www.goodgrease.com/
http://www.wiesel.ca/products.html
http://www.deltechnet.com/?act=prod&code=p&id=51
http://greasecar.com/
http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/
http://www.veggiefuelsystems.com
http://www.leskwvo.com/
http://www.green-trust.org/2000/biofuel ... efault.htm
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Bi ... ersion.htm
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/
http://www.roverhybrids.com/
http://www.lovecraftbiofuels.com/
http://www.mycaratemylunch.com/
http://greasebenz.com/
Environmental Info,
http://www.givemeaning.com/project/plantoil
http://www.canren.gc.ca/tech_appl/index ... =2&PgId=62 - Canada Gov site
http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/altfuel/biodiesel.html - US Gov site
http://www.agotob.com/content/about/abouta2b.html
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/FEG/bymake/bymanuNF.shtml
http://www.earthfuture.com/ - http://www.earthfuture.com/econews/
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_lib ... h/me4.html
http://peakoil.com/
http://www.treehugger.com/
http://www.bcsea.org/
http://www.green-trust.org/
http://www.greencarcongress.com/
http://www.cbc.ca/consumers/market/file ... biodiesel/
http://clubs.ccsu.edu/recorder/editoria ... NewsID=188 - Prius Outdoes Hummer in Environmental Damage - disputed by Toyota, but who knows!
Helpful information gleaned of someone else, and I can't remember where (And cause it is a really long post, doesn't hurt to be any longer) -
Since VO (vegetable oils) fuel research began in earnest the same basic problem has been noted with substituting VO for petrodiesel in diesel engines. It tends to leave carbon deposits which either directly or indirectly damage the engine and eventually lead to rapidly accelerated wear and/or catastrophic engine failure.
These deposits generally occur in three places...the injector tips, the manifold side of intake valves, and the piston (ring) lands/grooves. The process is generally referred to as "coking". Piston land Groove Coking is described at: http://www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/post ... id=1644578 and if individuals are interested I will create a separate discussion on the other two. It is sufficient to say here that injector coking generally tends to accelerate ring/land/groove coking and that ring/land/groove coking leads to the early demise of diesel engines run on VO.
In early testing of VO fuel engine longevity was very short. So short that VO was deemed to NOT be a viable alternative fuel. This was because VO tended to only partially combust due to its high viscosity at room temperature. The partially combusted VO tend to collect on piston sides and quickly damage the cylinder walls as well as do secondary damage to other parts of the engine. Reducing the viscosity of VO prior to injection by heating it dramatically improved the completeness of combustion but did not completely solve the problem.
But there are many things that individuals can do to delay ring/land/groove coking and the subsequent shortened engine life it causes.
The most basic are:
1. do not convert engines in the last stages of their life or in need of major maintenance unless you consider them disposable. If you DO at least test your crankcase oil for polymerization so it can be changed often enough to prevent gelling and the secondary damage this causes.
Quote:
To test for crankcase oil polymerization:
1.Retain about a cup of the used lube oil in a small jar.
2. Seal it up and refrigerate overnight.
3. Tilt the jar to see if the oil flows at all. Since refrigerators typically are set at between 37-45*F it may flow like molasses or tar...but it should still flow.
If it appears at all jello-like it indicates polymerization is occurring in your lube oil and that you should increase the frequency of your oil changes. If it remains jello-like after warming to room temp you may have advanced ring coking and should immediately determine if this is severe using compression tests before major engine damage occurs.
1. Change lube oil more often, likely twice as often, as usual.
2. Do not allow your injectors to become leaky. Leaky injectors speed up the ring/land/groove coking process since their effectiveness tends to quickly degrade. Use very "dry" VO fuel. Even very small amounts of suspended water (add link to suspended water discussion) tend to erode injector tips and allow leaking.
3. Do not add "performance" chips or other "power" mods to your engine. These are designed with diesel fuel use in mind and are not well suited to VO fuel use. They tend to add more fuel to the combustion chamber and so hasten ring/land/groove coking.
4. Do not switch to VO fuel until your engine is at normal operating temperature. The cooler the combustion chamber (piston,head,walls) are the faster ring/land/groove coking progresses.
5. Make certain that VO fuel is as hot as possible (200°F to 275°F) at the injector inlet.
6. Make certain that your purge cycles are long enough to completely purge VO from your injection lines and injectors. Starting a cold engine on cold VO will hasten ring/land/groove coking even in an engine with no other issues.
7. Do not ignore the manufacturers regular diesel engine maintenance schedule or any symptoms (hard starting, increase in crankcase oil consumption, excessive smoking upon startup, etc) which might indicate that the engine is not running optimally.
8. Have a compression test performed. Or do it yourself..Before you convert to VO. This will provide a good indication of how worn the engine is and possibly of problems that need attention before conversion. It will also provide a "benchmark" that can be used to compare later yearly compression tests to.
9. Make certain that your purge (diesel) tank cannot become too heavily contaminated with VO due to VO being "returned" to the diesel tank during purge cycles. Starting on a high percentage VO "blend" probably contributes to accelerated ring coking much as cold starting on VO does.
10. At the first sign of rough running, poor starting, reduced fuel economy, unusual increase or decrease in lubricating oil consumption, reduced power or unusual increase in black smoke, or any smoke, start investigation of possible causes.
Call me BCDelica-less
