sick pajero

Does your Mitsubishi L300 make a strange noise? Need wheel alignment specs?
wildkakwa
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Re: sick pajero

Post by wildkakwa »

I had a similar set of symptoms on my Pajero and fiddled quite a lot (changed the fuel filter, cleaned out the tank etc). Very annoying as it was intermitent. Finally pulled the vaccum line off the EGR and plugged it. Problem solved. I should pull it off and plug it properly, be weary of Pepsi can solutions, if the metal melts or shakes apart it will end up in your engine. Good luck.
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robinimpey
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Vehicle: 1991 Starwagon
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Re: sick pajero

Post by robinimpey »

So I have been informed there is not lift pump on these engines, the injection pump is strong enough to draw straight from the tank. I have been told that to check and see if the pump pressures are correct we need to tee into the return line and somewhere else. Does anyone know what two places exactly and what the pressures should be?
hasid33
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Vehicle: 92 Mits Pajero '03 XR650R

Re: sick pajero

Post by hasid33 »

Lil' update:

The EGR valve seems fine: strong spring, no obstructions, I removed it and blocked the intake and it still ran crappy. Doing that almost inspired me to extend that exhaust branch thru the hood and play farmer!

Wildkakwa: I'm no expert but just wondering: if simply plugging the vacuum line fixed it wouldn't that indicate a problem "upstream" of the EGR? (solenoid control?) Just wondering since the EGR is a "normally closed" type valve, it must have been getting constant vacuum before. I wish it had been the problem on mine. Thanks.

I guess I'm back to fuel delivery:
To be 110% confident that there's no leaks between fuel tank and IP (that would allow air into system), can I just be a plumber and do a pressure test? Take the supply and return lines off at the tank, couple them together at the IP, and pressurize them with a compressor on the supply and a guage on the return, pump 'em up and watch the guage over an hour or something? Anything that could get hurt in there? Is that what you did jfarsang? 50 psi?

If it passes a pressure test like that, and if I can check pump pressures with the method robinimpey is asking about without finding a problem, then I'll get it on a trailer and out to a good mechanic and let you know the outcome. $$$$$$$$$$$ We need a Pajero Hospital closer to Radium!
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CVI
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Re: sick pajero

Post by CVI »

If it was running well when you went to work and suddenly,.. coming home... it's acting differently, I would check your cam timing first. If you can open the upper timing cover and set the engine at TDC (looking into the pulley side) and then check where the position of the cam gear timing mark is. Also try and see how much tension you have in the timing belt as if its a bit loose, then the cam timing can jump easily by a tooth or two.

Good Luck.

Mitsubc
CVI Automotive
hasid33
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Vehicle: 92 Mits Pajero '03 XR650R

Re: sick pajero

Post by hasid33 »

:o Turns out that the timing is out on the pump sprocket by two teeth!! :o I was just going to reset it (but I couldn't find reset button :?) No but the belt needs replacing before I'll run it again, there's rubber shavings building up in there.

Now just need to source some timing belts, or a kit complete with sprockets, tensioners and all, waterpump, and whatever else I might as well do while I'm in there.

Thanks very much to everyone who took the time to post advise! :-) :-) :-)
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robinimpey
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Re: sick pajero

Post by robinimpey »

Oh wow! That's super lucky the belt didn't jump any more so that your valves and cylinders were having a party! Good to know what the problem is, now all you have to do is fix it.
hasid33
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Vehicle: 92 Mits Pajero '03 XR650R

Re: sick pajero

Post by hasid33 »

In closing, the sick Pajero is all better, new timing belts, tensioners, water pump and oil seals... The tensioner on the balancer belt looks like it must have flew apart, I found a piece of it in between the crank sprockets, it must have somehow caused the pump sprocket to jump.

So for anyone looking to buy one of these vehicles: make sure the recommended maintenance items have been done. Follow the advise of the members on this site. Also, unless you are a good mechanic, I wouldn't recommend doing this work by yourself. It's SUPER easy to wreck something expensive, and if you're a wannabe like me, it'll take you 10 hours and you'll worry about whether you did it right afterward. Take it to a qualified mechanic.

Check out the photos of the culprit tensioner and my K&N air filter upgrade... The cover piece from the tensioner was folded perfectly in half by the belt... Yes I realize how lucky I am...
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