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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
- north54
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Genuine Mitsubishi and better quality. Peace of mind and IMHO wouldn't get anything other than genuine when it comes to timing, head gaskets, etc. I Definately wouldn't trust the 2nd option in your picture "Mitsuboshi" ![Very Happy :-D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :-D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
TRUSTY RUSTY
- Growlerbearnz
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
As dodgy as it sounds, Mitsuboshi are OEM manufacturers for some Mitsubishi belts (My genuine Mitsubishi alternator belts are just Mitsuboshi belts in a Mitsubishi box.)
I wouldn't be surprised if the Mitsubishi and Mitsuboshi belts are identical. But still, for the sake of $30 I'd be ordering the genuine part.
I wouldn't be surprised if the Mitsubishi and Mitsuboshi belts are identical. But still, for the sake of $30 I'd be ordering the genuine part.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
- weelsey
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Well, I went with Italian. I bought a timing belt kit by Dayco.... for the north american 2.3l. Tensioners, belts, three seals under 100CAD suited my budget'think any of the parts will fit?
Perhaps I will be reusing old equipment when I put it back together. The most immediate concern still being the leaking IP front seal.
Perhaps I will be reusing old equipment when I put it back together. The most immediate concern still being the leaking IP front seal.
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- weelsey
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Each of the belts, tensioners, cam seal from the dayco kit were a fine replacent. The balance shafts and crank seals I did not use. Rock auto says there are more of these now, tho when I ordere it said one remaining.
Little tight drilling holes in the old camshaft seal to remove with rad in place but doable using short drill and bits.
Tensioners seemed every bit equal.
Little tight drilling holes in the old camshaft seal to remove with rad in place but doable using short drill and bits.
Tensioners seemed every bit equal.
i agree these stretch. For clarity can I have my understanding confirmed or refuted that these are not a tourque to yeild head bolt? TksFalcoColumbarius wrote:[color= I would think the current head bolts would have stretched over time. How much would you save if you left the old bolts in ~ as compared to the engine's overall longevity and performance integrity? (Rhetorical)Matt&Kim wrote:curious if it's entirely necessary to replace the head bolts when I do it.
Thanks!
Falco.[/color]
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
great stuff this is a top class write up...great pictures and very informative... it must have taken you ages to do. I just had a massive coolant leak today found out it has come from the core plugs on the block they were rusted through. So from your pics of the exhaust manifold removal i see i can get at them by just taking that off and replacing them...thanks for your time and effort. top job
- weelsey
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
[quote="Tojo"][/quote]
Question for you (et al). How had you handled the job of replacing injectors in the new head? Was this something you farmed out? sorry if I missed it in the thread.
Question for you (et al). How had you handled the job of replacing injectors in the new head? Was this something you farmed out? sorry if I missed it in the thread.
- Growlerbearnz
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Correct, 4D56 head bolts are not torque to yield. They can be re-used if they're still in as-new condition. Any pitting, corrosion, or galling on the threads or heads and all bets are off.weelsey wrote:I agree these stretch. For clarity can I have my understanding confirmed or refuted that these are not a torque to yield head bolt? Tks
Fit new body and nozzle washers/gaskets, tighten to 54Nm using a long socket. Or have I misunderstood the question?weelsey wrote:How had you handled the job of replacing injectors in the new head? Was this something you farmed out? sorry if I missed it in the thread.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
- weelsey
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Thanks, that was it in part. I was hoping to glean what I may from Tojo's experience. I encountered things like considerable carbon and stubborn seat washers, cleaning and working carefully to keep debris out of the head. I was trying to learn as much as I could about the engine by inspection of the injectors.weelsey wrote:Or have I misunderstood the question?
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
I have a L300 with an 4d56 and am wondering if the head can be removed with both manifolds attached. Could I be so fortunate. Any thoughts appreciated...thank you.
Jim
Jim
Jim James
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
actually yes you can get it off with the manifolds in place luckily
Jim James
- Growlerbearnz
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
...it just takes a year and a half? ![Wink ;-)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Wink ;-)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
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L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Thanks for the detailed write up, tojo! Really helped a ton. I swapped my head recently and noticed a lot of diesel leaking through what seems a couple of the delivery holders on the IP. Could those have possibly cracked when i was loosening lines? I looked at seevice manual and it doesn't show any seals or gaskets that need replaced after disassembly. Curious what it might be.Tojo wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2015 9:40 pm Thanks for the encouragement guys.
Now that the snow has melted, I'm getting back to the task at hand.
Crossing back to the passenger side of the motor, the next move was to crack loose the glow plugs.
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Then loosen all the unions for the fuel injection pipes, there are 8 in total. Use two wrenches and be gentle! Not a lot of room down in behind the injection pump.
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Remove the two electrical connectors on top of the injection pump.
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And remove the two connectors near the front of the head on the passenger side, for engine coolant temperature.
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Here are a couple more pictures of the back of the injection pump. Awkward to get in there, but it's doable with a bit of patience. Personally I get nervous around the IP. Try not to break anything!
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Re: L300 Head replacement and timing belt DIY, step by step
Hello ! First thanks for this amazing threadTojo wrote: ↑Wed Jul 15, 2015 4:41 pm By the way. Use a small 1/16" drill bit to make holes in the oil seals then drive a tiny screw into the hole and use needlenose pliers (bentnose preferred) to remove the seal. Just don't drill into the shaft or aluminum housing!
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Use the same method to remove the crank oil seal.
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Pull out the oil pump drive gear sleeve. Again because of the worn in groove that lets oil past as well as the teeth can get worn out. In this case the gear teeth look fine, but whatever, I replace anyways.
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New oil pump drive gear sleeve.
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An ABS fitting works really well for press fitting that crank oil seal. 2" to 2.25" outer diameter sleeve is what you're looking for.
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Looking freshened up.
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