Hyundai D4BF engine install

Does your Mitsubishi L300 make a strange noise? Need wheel alignment specs?
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Growlerbearnz
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Hyundai D4BF engine install

Postby Growlerbearnz » Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:33 pm

Good questions! Some of which I actually intended to answer, but forgot.

lrp374 wrote:1. You've indicated you're now running about 17 psi. Do you have any trouble with that pop-valve ( or whatever it's called ) operating or have you disabled or replaced it?

I had replaced it with a brass plug (from a plumbing store!) on the previous engine, and just swapped the plug over.
PLug.JPG
PLug.JPG (36.49 KiB) Viewed 45 times

I'm not entirely convinced the pressure release valve is necessary. It seems to be there just to protect the inlet manifold gaskets- but they're the same style used on engines running 30psi. I also don't see how it could protect the turbo from overspeeding.

lrp374 wrote:2.Is the waste gate adjustment rod the same as the old engine?

It's in the same place, but the adjustment mechanism is slightly different. You can see it in the photo of the engine side- the adjuster has a stripe of blue paint on it (so they know if you've changed it. Which I have). It has a 10mm nut to lock it, and a knurled nut so you can adjust it by hand. ...while it's at a billion degrees because it lives next to the turbo. It's not the most considered design.

lrp374 wrote:3. Did you need a different lower rad hose because of the angle of the water pump?

Weirdly, no. The hose is long enough, and the change in angle only put it about an inch out of alignment. Once fitted it cleared everything, and didn't even kink.

lrp374 wrote:4. Did you need to do any external connections to the watercooled turbo?

Nope. The turbo's water cooling pipes are all supplied on the engine. Just connect the radiator and heater hoses and you're done.

lrp374 wrote:5. Is it still shiny?

Very. :-D
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.


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