Another Plant Drive kit install

[Adam]

OK, I got the kit about a month ago, but it being summer it's been hard to find a weekend to dedicate to the install. It has also taken this long to work up the nerve to drill holes and cut lines on my rig. I'm really not qualified for this, but using the instructions and the support of the forum I'm confident I won't destroy my engine.....well maybe confident is too strong a word......I'm relatively certain.

So here's what I bought from PlantDrive:

• VegTherm Mega, VegMax, Pollack 6-port Valve
  Early Switchover Preventer

So far I've got the VergTherm, Pollack Valve and VegMax tagged on.

VegTherm


VegMax installed behind passenger size wheel well

The red circles are the bolts holding the VegMax on, the yellow circle is a hole drilled when I should have been measuring twice.

Pollack Valve bolted to a hole that already existed:

Right now it is only held on with one bolt so I might have to beef up the mounting, but the valve itself is pretty light and does not seem to need the 2 bolts. This might change when I attach the diesel and VO hosing.

Next Step: Wiring

I've got a few questions for Josh, Kevin and/or anyone else that has installed a similar kit:

• Where did you run the wiring for the toggle switch? Did it involve taking apart most of your dash? I'm still working on extracting my cigarette lighter socket, but it's tough getting the brass holding ring off.
  
  When you added the Tees to your coolant and fuel lines what was the procedure you used, and btw do you have a good picture identifying where and which hoses I should be cutting? I'm planning on using a couple of locking pliers to isolate a section of fuel/coolant line, cut the line, add the tee and release the pliers once the lines are all connected. Sounds easy, but I'm sure I'll mess it up.
  
  Do you have to manually prime the engine after you've spliced in all the tees and connected the Pollack valve to get all the air out of the system? If so, how do you do that?

I'm still working on getting my fuel tank mounted under my tail gate, but I have to get my exhaust re-routed first. Maybe I can get that done tomorrow.

[Adam]

I think I figure out where to interrupt the diesel fuel line:

I could very well be wrong, but it looks like the above is the diesel filter, the white arrow is from the fuel tank and the red arrow is to the injector. Should I connect the red arrow fuel line to the diesel in on the Pollack Valve then connect the WVO/Diesel out from the Pollack Valve to the injection pump? Now where is that diesel return line.....oh, it is visible from the underside.

The yellow line looks like the diesel return and the white one is still the diesel supply to the filter. So I need to disconnect the diesel return and hook it up to the Pollack diesel return port, then run a line from the injection pump return to the WVO/Diesel return port on the Pollack. Stop me if I'm off track. Now where are those damn coolant lines?

[sean]

Looking good Adam.
It will feel good when it is all in and if something goes wrong you put it in so you know what to look for and how to fix.

As for your questions I would hate to answer because I am such a newbie, I would be asking the same questions. Thanks for taking pictures.
Sean

[josh]

Now where is that diesel return line.....oh, it is visible from the underside.

And so here is a re modification of the topside picture, with the yellow arrow being your return path. Keep up the great work Adam, and great photos. By the time you are done anyone will be able to do it.

Josh

[josh]

Adam,

I just ran out and snapped a few pictures about where the wire runs...

This first picture is of the floor behind the pedals, just peel back the carpet... an there it is... the fuse box would be just at the top right hand side if I took the picture a bit further back... The second is a closer picture of the same area... notice the blue wire. The blue wire is running from my fuse panel and exiting the cab through the floor where the yellow arrow points. Then you can run it where ever you want from there...





Keep up the great work.

Josh

[EnviroImports.com]

Hey Adam, just thought I would give you some more options, What about replacing that old fuel filter with the pricy filters with a combo unit, like Fuel FILTER/heater/Water seperator? thats what I'm doing on my van, and im actually going over to Van to the wholesale office to pick up a case of them with some other thing. but The ones im talking about are actualy made for wvo and bio. I just got off the phone with the the director of Raycor (not a local manager) but the actual director and I was very happy to hear that there is so much demand for wvo and bio filters that they are now doing a trial line devoted to us. and Yes I will be a distributer of them......... sorry shameless plug...... But give it some thought I will be posting the specs on my site . I like supporting products that are taking a risk to help out the wvo/bio shift in thougt and now that more people are using wvo/bio the big companys can pay more attention to and resources to what is the best product for us rather than "hey this can be made to fit or work"

"Times they are a changin"

[docsavage]

I ordered a Racor 360rc with a 2 micron filter a couple of days ago. It should be here today. This is like the one wetcoast is getting. I decided on these because Racor is big and parts are available anywhere. It also has an option for a 12v pre-heat as well as a 120 volt pre-heat. I will probably put in both.

Has anyone considered a small circulation pump in the WVO system to circulate the oil through the filter and tank to warm it up faster?

Also, any hints on a DIY heater coil in the fuel tank?

James

[EnviroImports.com]

Hi James, for a circulation heater into the tank I dont like the idea of puting a heater into the polly tank , I also dont like the idea that the fuel tank is in side the cabin of the van, I know its only wvo, but really it smells , one clog and that heated tank will be venting into the cabin, I could go on about this but everyone knows the reasons to put the fuel tank out side the vehicle.
I just bought a tig welder and hired a welder to fab up custom size tanks for wvo, there is going to be a built in circualtion heater to pre heat the wvo . Im not spilling the beans early about the whole design of the tank, but with all the things that are coming together right now its going to be impressive.
Noel

[Adam]

Hey Adam, just thought I would give you some more options, What about replacing that old fuel filter with the pricy filters with a combo unit, like Fuel FILTER/heater/Water seperator?

Hey Noel, I'm a little confused, are you suggesting I swap out the VegMax filter (Ramco TurboFyner) for another fuel filter, or are you reffering to the diesel filter? The replacement filter elements don;t look too expensive on the Plantdrive site ($66 for 3). Cheaper then oil filters.

[EnviroImports.com]

Hi Adam, I was talking about the stock delica fuel filter. I am replacing the one on mine with the raycor, to use with out the wvo and to use once my kit is installed. have you decided about the wrangler tank? I like the skid plate on it, and the size is nice since it leaves room for the propane injection tank........

[Adam]

Oh, I think I get it, so you would use the same fuel filter for both diesel and WVO? Interesting, how much are the replacement filters? I probably won't switch out my filter right now seeing as I've already bought the VegMax and have got it bolted on, but I'd be very interested in hearing how your system works.

[Adam]

Adam, I just ran out and snapped a few pictures about where the wire runs...

Is that the wire that runs to your toggle switch on your dash? Where/how did you mount it on your dash. I'm trying to install the switch to the right of my cigarette lighter, but I'm having a hell of a time get it removed. Might be easier to take more of the dash off.

[josh]

Adam,

yes its the wire that runs to the toggle switch. And the toggle is mounted right to where you are planning on putting it. And Kev did the mounting (you got to watch that guy, my cigarette lighter now wobbles and shorts out my radio and clock, i tell you its hard to find good help these days ) ...but it looks great there. Kev didn't seem to take any more of the dash off than you. Good luck, keep plugging away at it.

Josh

[Adam]

Kev did the mounting (you got to watch that guy, my cigarette lighter now wobbles and shorts out my radio and clock, i tell you its hard to find good help these days )

Whaaa?? Kev was the one give me the input on how to extract the cigarette lighter outlet, gotta be careful who you listen to on this forum, eh I'll have to keep prying at it with pliers to see if I can loosen it.

[BCDelica]

Adam, it's best to follow the existing wire runs up and under the front skid plate (which you have removed right?). And yes when you cut both your diesel and coolant line you'll need to fill/purge - I recommend one of those plastic priming pumps from a auto part store. The vise grip idea is a good one. You may find your valve a little low near the shroud there to run all the hoses (with out a kink!), but it could be done with careful routing. Josh's is right about the diesel routing, of course after all the diligent training by James and I. Pretty messy wiring in Josh's van though, who the heck did that? Remember small, strong hands work best for removing the lighter, call Gondaff. Sounds like your well under way Adam. Also for some reason I have a craving for beer and pizza.

James, the Racor 360rc uses the same filters as my 3 year old housing. Definitely get the 120 volt option, it'll pay for itself in time with far earlier switch overs to WVO.

Noel with a tig welder and James with the Alumium wire gun, I know who I want for my new best friends!

Cheers,
Kev