Fluids Fluids Fluids
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Fluids Fluids Fluids
Just curious what are the best fluids to use. I searched out the oil discussion and there were no definitive answers. I don't want to use anything harmful, and I'm sure no one else does. Anyone with good information on fluids from oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, even windshield washer fluid.
Hopefully we'll get a list of the best fluids to go in the FAQ section.
Thanks.
Hopefully we'll get a list of the best fluids to go in the FAQ section.
Thanks.
- Fanny Bay Delica
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Adam,
I tell you what I have been using from a fluid perspective, its Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additive. I've been told that due to the very low sulpher diesel currently available that these additives are need to properly clean and lubricate the fuel system.
If you buy it by the case it's really cheap ($70 per case, 10 fill ups per bottle) per fill up vice the additives available at the gas station.
I tell you what I have been using from a fluid perspective, its Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additive. I've been told that due to the very low sulpher diesel currently available that these additives are need to properly clean and lubricate the fuel system.
If you buy it by the case it's really cheap ($70 per case, 10 fill ups per bottle) per fill up vice the additives available at the gas station.
Cheers!!
Andy
'91 Delica Super Exceed (Jade over Silver) - SOLD!! - SOLD!! SOLD!!
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Andy
'91 Delica Super Exceed (Jade over Silver) - SOLD!! - SOLD!! SOLD!!
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Ok, I know that I have come across the information somewhere but can't seem to find it anywhere now.
What fluid are people using for the coolant. I remember reading somewhere about there being some issue because the rad is aluminum.
Maybe I am just being lazy but my manual says Mitubishi coolant or equivilent. I just don't know what the equivilent is.
Thank you
Andy
What fluid are people using for the coolant. I remember reading somewhere about there being some issue because the rad is aluminum.
Maybe I am just being lazy but my manual says Mitubishi coolant or equivilent. I just don't know what the equivilent is.
Thank you
Andy
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for allumanum rad right now lordco has coolant on sale, I believe the yellow cap one is alumanum safe, just ask at the counter, for diesel additive, ADAM, you only need to put some in every other fueling, you wont harm it doing it every time, but its not needed, enough lubricant will stay in as long as you dont run it down to reserve , and dont do that any way lol and dont forget to put in some biocide about once a month, only about 1 oz on a full tank.
OIL, I use 15w40 from any of the major supliers, but I also put in some Lucas oil aditive .
If Im about to do a oil change I put in one liter of ATF fluid a day befor I do the oil change and the detergants in it will scrub all the nastys off the metal parts , your oil will come out gross, but your internals will also get a good cleaning.
trans fluid, go with the best you can afford and get the internal filter changed also, yes its a few extra bucks, but why chang the fluid that drains out the bottom if you dont change the filter and get out that extra litre or so of grunge out, your trans fluid is just as important as your oil, it needs to stay clean and to keep your auto clutches working well.
No im not a mechanic, but ive been a profesional trucker for over 15 yrs and always done my own work . Whats that? of course almost all my vehicles have been diesel. lol
Hope that helps a bit
OIL, I use 15w40 from any of the major supliers, but I also put in some Lucas oil aditive .
If Im about to do a oil change I put in one liter of ATF fluid a day befor I do the oil change and the detergants in it will scrub all the nastys off the metal parts , your oil will come out gross, but your internals will also get a good cleaning.
trans fluid, go with the best you can afford and get the internal filter changed also, yes its a few extra bucks, but why chang the fluid that drains out the bottom if you dont change the filter and get out that extra litre or so of grunge out, your trans fluid is just as important as your oil, it needs to stay clean and to keep your auto clutches working well.
No im not a mechanic, but ive been a profesional trucker for over 15 yrs and always done my own work . Whats that? of course almost all my vehicles have been diesel. lol
Hope that helps a bit
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Any idea of where I can get the trans filter? or the seals to go along with that... I am not in vancouver, so I have to source it all myself for the trans guys here. Any suggestions? Thankswetcoastnewbie wrote:trans fluid, go with the best you can afford and get the internal filter changed also, yes its a few extra bucks, but why chang the fluid that drains out the bottom if you dont change the filter and get out that extra litre or so of grunge out, your trans fluid is just as important as your oil, it needs to stay clean and to keep your auto clutches working well.
Josh
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post what model your trans is, should be on a stamp on the side or bottom, Im betting that its a comon trans used in other mitsubishi, once you have your trans model number it will be easy to track down, write it down then Google it as mitsubishi trans#...if that doesent give you models with that trans I can get it for you in a few days if you like.
but im sure its available here, just have to know what to ask for.
Very good move to change your trans oil, its so often over looked and around $100 + to have changed at some places, but you are much better to get it switched over than ask how much to rebuild it
but im sure its available here, just have to know what to ask for.
Very good move to change your trans oil, its so often over looked and around $100 + to have changed at some places, but you are much better to get it switched over than ask how much to rebuild it
- ccautos
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trans filters
The transmission filter is available off the shelf at Lordco but it is just the metal screen style that you can easily remove and clean . I started changing them and decided that spending $50 on a filter kit was pointless versus $12 on some degreaser and tube of silicone . I am not at the shop right now but if anyone wants the part number I can dig it out . Mitsubishi was very good and put a nice easy drain plug in the transmission oil pan . I would suggest draining and refilling then drive 10km and repeat drain refill process . Do this three times and it will flush out most old fluid and not cost too much . The auto transmssions we have seen so far have not been any problem except for broken or poorly adjusted kickdown cables .
- BCDelica
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Glen, from your experience what do you think of the quick lube places that pump tranny fluids to change it. They pump fluid through until it runs clean for awhile, pricey.
Since I have been injured I have to my vehicle in for fluid changes and chassis lubing, it's hurts cause it's not that big of a job.
Cheers,
Kevin
Since I have been injured I have to my vehicle in for fluid changes and chassis lubing, it's hurts cause it's not that big of a job.
Cheers,
Kevin

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Re: trans filters
Glen,ccautos wrote:I am not at the shop right now but if anyone wants the part number I can dig it out . Mitsubishi was very good and put a nice easy drain plug in the transmission oil pan . I would suggest draining and refilling then drive 10km and repeat drain refill process . Do this three times and it will flush out most old fluid and not cost too much . The auto transmssions we have seen so far have not been any problem except for broken or poorly adjusted kickdown cables .
I would love the part number! And I found that transmission plug right off the bat, it was a pleasant suprise after I bought it. I have done a flush already. But it has been 26,000km, and I would really like to address that filter. Thanks.
Josh
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I agree its much easier to just drain and re fill from the drain hole, just wondering how often you would change your oil and leave the same filter on?
Im not trying to tell anyone what to do, Personally and this is only me, I like to pull the pan off to change the filter and I also get to see if there are any shavings in the bottom of the pan to let me know if some problems are about to pop up when Im say..., over the coq and the trans is really working... ..yes a magnetic drain bolt is great to catch shavings, but delicas dont have one, so at least if your going to only change the oil and leave the old filter in, invest the ten bucks for a magnetic drain plug to catch any little bits, as the passageways in a trans pan are pretty small and you dont want that little ball bearing getting stock on a shaving.......
Im not trying to tell anyone what to do, Personally and this is only me, I like to pull the pan off to change the filter and I also get to see if there are any shavings in the bottom of the pan to let me know if some problems are about to pop up when Im say..., over the coq and the trans is really working... ..yes a magnetic drain bolt is great to catch shavings, but delicas dont have one, so at least if your going to only change the oil and leave the old filter in, invest the ten bucks for a magnetic drain plug to catch any little bits, as the passageways in a trans pan are pretty small and you dont want that little ball bearing getting stock on a shaving.......
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If I'm not mistaken the TC has a drain as well.Simply drain and refilll the TC and pan, 10l and your done.
NEVER EVER use silicone or similar sealants on anything hydraulic. Only two kinds of people use RTV silicone; those who are trying to save money and those who don't know better. Much safer to use permatex #2 or #3
The radiator core is likely not alluminum, but the cylinder head sure is.Coolant PH is THE paramount consideration. Acids will form and corrode your alluminum head, leading to all kinds of grief. Regardless of the "service life " stated by the coolant manufacturer, dont go beyond 24 months.And check your PH often
Best not to use Diesel HD coolant as it is formulated for wet liner/ Steel cyclinder head engines [low silicate] see impingement and cavitation
NEVER EVER use silicone or similar sealants on anything hydraulic. Only two kinds of people use RTV silicone; those who are trying to save money and those who don't know better. Much safer to use permatex #2 or #3
The radiator core is likely not alluminum, but the cylinder head sure is.Coolant PH is THE paramount consideration. Acids will form and corrode your alluminum head, leading to all kinds of grief. Regardless of the "service life " stated by the coolant manufacturer, dont go beyond 24 months.And check your PH often
Best not to use Diesel HD coolant as it is formulated for wet liner/ Steel cyclinder head engines [low silicate] see impingement and cavitation