L300 Lokka install
Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 3:37 pm
Admin: Thread tidied and copied to Technical Reference Library. Original thread is here: http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17541
Installing Lokka's (http://lokka.com/site/) front differential locker for Mitsubishi L300 ('87-'94). But first, a warning (thanks to ChuckBlack for pointing it out):
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The position of the differential ring gear in relation to the pinion gear is critical. As long as you put everything back the way it came apart, all the shims and bearings in the same place, neither should change. However, if you're changing the bearings, or you forgot which shim goes where, you'll need to read and follow the workshop manual to re-setup your differential correctly. It's a good idea to read the workshop manual first anyway. It's an even better idea to measure your backlash and check your tooth contact pattern *before* disassembly, so you can confirm that it's been reassembled properly. I got excited and neglected to measure first, but I also have a spare front axle. YMMV.
------------------
I thoroughly recommend obtaining these parts first, but it's possible you could complete the job without replacing/using any/all of them:
(These are the part numbers to suit a 1991 L300 P25W SRPT1, use at your own risk):
Diff side gear shim kit MB185519
Cross pin MB241909
Driveshaft seals x2 MB290013
Diff side bearings MB092348
Cover gasket MB160579
Remove the front differential from the van. http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=96&t=17677
Take off the diff cover and extract the axle shaft. The workshop manual recommends a slide hammer, but you can also just lever here and tap it with a regular engineers hammer and it'll pop right out. Sometimes the circlip pops out of its groove and won't let you remove the axle- you can push the circlip back into place from inside the differential carrier. This is where you're supposed to measure the backlash and, if you're paranoid, check the tooth contact pattern. In theory it shouldn't change as long as you reassemble everything in the same place.
Mark the bearing caps so you can replace them in the same positions. Undo the bolts and remove the bearing caps, then lever the diff carrier out. **watch for the bearing races and shims- keep them on the side they came from so you can reassemble everything in the same place** Mark the ring gear, then undo the bolts and remove the ring gear. **When reinstalling, you'll need to clean the threads with an M10 x 1.25 tap, and apply thread lock liquid- stud lock (the strongest) is what Mitsubishi specify.** Using a drift (or a dead drill bit, if you're a bit dodgy), remove the lock pin (it only comes out one way) and the cross pin. (It's a good idea to use soft jaws to protect the diff carrier and vice, but I didn't because reasons.) Rotate the side gears to remove them, then remove the axle gears. **keep the axle gear shims on their original sides** Now follow the instructions that came with your Lokka. On mine, they refer to the short axle gear going on the "long axle side, with no snap ring"- this may be confusing, as both the long axle and short axle/CVs have a snap ring: Lokka have confirmed that the short axle gear goes on the long axle, and that they were trying to imply that the snap ring is optional.
The spacers that came with my Lokka had a sharp edge on the inside that interfered with the radius edge on the axle gears, making it impossible to install the cross pin. I've told Lokka about this, and they say they're looking into it.
I ground off the sharp edge so the spacers would sit flat (a die grinder or Dremel will do), and it all went together properly.
Finally, install the cam gears and measure the distance between cams.
My side gear shims were super tight, and my clearances were too tight for the range the Lokka requires. My shims need to be 0.35mm thinner to bring everything into the middle of the range. I'm going to have to order a shim kit- I really should have done that first, because pulling the axle is a pain.
Installing Lokka's (http://lokka.com/site/) front differential locker for Mitsubishi L300 ('87-'94). But first, a warning (thanks to ChuckBlack for pointing it out):
------------------
The position of the differential ring gear in relation to the pinion gear is critical. As long as you put everything back the way it came apart, all the shims and bearings in the same place, neither should change. However, if you're changing the bearings, or you forgot which shim goes where, you'll need to read and follow the workshop manual to re-setup your differential correctly. It's a good idea to read the workshop manual first anyway. It's an even better idea to measure your backlash and check your tooth contact pattern *before* disassembly, so you can confirm that it's been reassembled properly. I got excited and neglected to measure first, but I also have a spare front axle. YMMV.
------------------
I thoroughly recommend obtaining these parts first, but it's possible you could complete the job without replacing/using any/all of them:
(These are the part numbers to suit a 1991 L300 P25W SRPT1, use at your own risk):
Diff side gear shim kit MB185519
Cross pin MB241909
Driveshaft seals x2 MB290013
Diff side bearings MB092348
Cover gasket MB160579
Remove the front differential from the van. http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=96&t=17677
Take off the diff cover and extract the axle shaft. The workshop manual recommends a slide hammer, but you can also just lever here and tap it with a regular engineers hammer and it'll pop right out. Sometimes the circlip pops out of its groove and won't let you remove the axle- you can push the circlip back into place from inside the differential carrier. This is where you're supposed to measure the backlash and, if you're paranoid, check the tooth contact pattern. In theory it shouldn't change as long as you reassemble everything in the same place.
Mark the bearing caps so you can replace them in the same positions. Undo the bolts and remove the bearing caps, then lever the diff carrier out. **watch for the bearing races and shims- keep them on the side they came from so you can reassemble everything in the same place** Mark the ring gear, then undo the bolts and remove the ring gear. **When reinstalling, you'll need to clean the threads with an M10 x 1.25 tap, and apply thread lock liquid- stud lock (the strongest) is what Mitsubishi specify.** Using a drift (or a dead drill bit, if you're a bit dodgy), remove the lock pin (it only comes out one way) and the cross pin. (It's a good idea to use soft jaws to protect the diff carrier and vice, but I didn't because reasons.) Rotate the side gears to remove them, then remove the axle gears. **keep the axle gear shims on their original sides** Now follow the instructions that came with your Lokka. On mine, they refer to the short axle gear going on the "long axle side, with no snap ring"- this may be confusing, as both the long axle and short axle/CVs have a snap ring: Lokka have confirmed that the short axle gear goes on the long axle, and that they were trying to imply that the snap ring is optional.
The spacers that came with my Lokka had a sharp edge on the inside that interfered with the radius edge on the axle gears, making it impossible to install the cross pin. I've told Lokka about this, and they say they're looking into it.
I ground off the sharp edge so the spacers would sit flat (a die grinder or Dremel will do), and it all went together properly.
Finally, install the cam gears and measure the distance between cams.
My side gear shims were super tight, and my clearances were too tight for the range the Lokka requires. My shims need to be 0.35mm thinner to bring everything into the middle of the range. I'm going to have to order a shim kit- I really should have done that first, because pulling the axle is a pain.