Discovered a diesel leak at the rear of the injection pump in my van (Delica L400 '94).
I have managed to trace it to the plug at the rear of the injection pump (roughly centred between the connections for the 4 injector pipes). From looking at the rebuild kit for the injection pump it looks like there is an o-ring seal behind this plug that has probably failed. (See image below).
This plug is circular with three flat surfaces around its perimeter (spaced at 120 degrees?) ... in other words it looks like it needs a special tool to remove it. (see image below)
Does anyone know what this special tool is called or where I can get it?
Thanks,
Chris
L400 Injection Pump Seal Replacement ... special tool?
- northriver
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:13 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: Delica L400
- Location: Darfield, BC
- Contact:
- northriver
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:13 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: Delica L400
- Location: Darfield, BC
- Contact:
Re: L400 Injection Pump Seal Replacement ... special tool?
OK ... so I managed to pull the injection pump.
I ended up using a pipe wrench to loosen the plug I was worried about getting off ... that worked fine but in order to be able to swing the wrench I also had to remove the four connectors for the injector pipes.
I replaced the seal for this plug and reassembled / re-installed the injector pump. I had to bleed the pump by cracking the injector pipes open at the engine but other than that the van started fine and it looks like the leak is gone!
Bad news is that while removing the shroud covering the radiator I snapped off the small overflow hose fitting that feeds back to the coolant filler tank ... the part seems very brittle. I am not sure if this is repair-able and am curious if anybody has tried fixing the plastic part of a radiator?
As a short term measure I am attempting to glue the fitting back in place with JB-Weld ... I am also trying to track down a replacement radiator. Does anybody know if this is a common rad size and what vehicle it might cross to in the North American market?
I ended up using a pipe wrench to loosen the plug I was worried about getting off ... that worked fine but in order to be able to swing the wrench I also had to remove the four connectors for the injector pipes.
I replaced the seal for this plug and reassembled / re-installed the injector pump. I had to bleed the pump by cracking the injector pipes open at the engine but other than that the van started fine and it looks like the leak is gone!
Bad news is that while removing the shroud covering the radiator I snapped off the small overflow hose fitting that feeds back to the coolant filler tank ... the part seems very brittle. I am not sure if this is repair-able and am curious if anybody has tried fixing the plastic part of a radiator?
As a short term measure I am attempting to glue the fitting back in place with JB-Weld ... I am also trying to track down a replacement radiator. Does anybody know if this is a common rad size and what vehicle it might cross to in the North American market?
- northriver
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:13 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: Delica L400
- Location: Darfield, BC
- Contact:
Re: L400 Injection Pump Seal Replacement ... special tool?
Just a final note on this job ...
I did manage to temporarily repair the radiator. After some reading I figured out that a plastic radiator is made out of thermo-plastic ... meaning that it can be melted and re-formed. I drilled out the snapped plastic fitting so that a threaded pipe nipple (that would also fit into the hose associated with this fitting) fit snugly into the hole. Then, I used a soldering iron to melt what was left of the original plastic fitting around the threads of the pipe ... this made for quite a tight fit. Finally, I superglued the pipe nipple in place. (If you try anything like this make sure the space you are working in is well ventilated.) The repair worked long enough for me to travel to Vernon and pick up a replacement radiator ... it would have lasted longer (I think) but I am pretty happy to have a new radiator!
To remove the injection pump I followed an excellent word document write-up at http://www.wordwendang.com/en/11083/word_512241.doc
My additional thoughts on this document:
1. My power steering pump only has two bolts mounting it to the engine (not the three in the writeup)
2. Have a few longer bolts than the ones used to mount the injection pump to the engine ... it makes re-mounting the injection pump simple ... we spent hours trying to re-align the IP and finished the job in minutes once we used longer bolts to get the pump started ... otherwise I am sure there is a trick to doing this that I could not figure out.
I did manage to temporarily repair the radiator. After some reading I figured out that a plastic radiator is made out of thermo-plastic ... meaning that it can be melted and re-formed. I drilled out the snapped plastic fitting so that a threaded pipe nipple (that would also fit into the hose associated with this fitting) fit snugly into the hole. Then, I used a soldering iron to melt what was left of the original plastic fitting around the threads of the pipe ... this made for quite a tight fit. Finally, I superglued the pipe nipple in place. (If you try anything like this make sure the space you are working in is well ventilated.) The repair worked long enough for me to travel to Vernon and pick up a replacement radiator ... it would have lasted longer (I think) but I am pretty happy to have a new radiator!
To remove the injection pump I followed an excellent word document write-up at http://www.wordwendang.com/en/11083/word_512241.doc
My additional thoughts on this document:
1. My power steering pump only has two bolts mounting it to the engine (not the three in the writeup)
2. Have a few longer bolts than the ones used to mount the injection pump to the engine ... it makes re-mounting the injection pump simple ... we spent hours trying to re-align the IP and finished the job in minutes once we used longer bolts to get the pump started ... otherwise I am sure there is a trick to doing this that I could not figure out.