More, shall we say, inconveniances while travelling

[nxski]

Well, I picked up my tie rod ends in Charleston, SC today and took them to a mechanic to have them installed, the torsion bars cranked and an alignment done. Turns out no one has time to do this and also my control arm bushing need replacing. This brings me to my question...

I'm assuming I can find these bushinga locally in the states but are they off of an 89 Montero or something else? Also, is there a poly upgrade etc that I can go with?

Thanks

I know the answer is probably located within the depths of Delica.ca but I have absoloutely no time to look right now so your help is really appreciated!

[jessef]

control arms are different = bushings are different

torsion bar on L300 - upper control arm / smaller splined
torsion bar on Montero - lower control arm / larger splined

use genuine bushings

thedjack recently did his.

[nxski]

Ok, so this is another part I have to get shipped out to me? I seem to have the part shipped, pay a fortune and when I go o have it installed I need another part that has to be shipped. The question now is whether I should just cut my losses and continue on my trip without getting any work done and hope for the best!? I know this is a loaded question but what's the worst that could happen if I just leave the ragged control arm bushings as they are? The mechanic I took the van to suggested I try toyo bushings since they looked the same to him. Is there really no way I can source these locally?

Jfarsang, do you have a picture of the part in question? The bushings I was being shown didn't look to be connected to the torsion bar. Is it possible that the terminology has been mixed up? I'll see if I can get a picture up later this evening...

[jessef]

take a picture of the part you are asking about being replaced

a resourceful mechanic may be able to source a replacement if it's available locally there

[thedjjack]

Lower or upper control arms?

Lower bushing kits available

upper = NEW CONTROL ARMS

If it was me:

I would swap the tie rods (I assume outer as you need tool to do iners)
I would crank the torsion bars myself
I would get a tap measure and make the tires equal distance from each other on both sides of the tire (about 1/8 toe in actually)
I do all my alignments this way

I would get driving and off the internet and enjoy the trip (bushings on the control arm can wait if they move and not metal on metal yet (I left mine for 2 years before I did the front end)

The only danger is tie rod ends unless bushings are really really bad...

total time is 2 hours in a parking lot..post on overlander site see if anyone can give you a hand with a garage....

[nxski]

Thanks for the responses.

I don't know if this is upper or lower but I don't see any bushing below it so I'm assuming lower!? I'm getting some opposing information so here is what I've been told and maybe you all can help me figure out exactly what's going on.

1st mechanic:
- inner tie rod ends need replacing because there's play
- refuses to do alignment or crank torsion bars because it will not be correct without the tie rod ends being replaced

2nd mechanic:
- inner tie rod end play is minute and will barely make any difference
- control arm bushings are worn, we won't crank your torsion bars or do an alignment until this is replaced since it will not be correct.
- control arm bushings look like toyo ones, try to match with those
- taking apart the control arms to replace the bushings will make replacing the inner tie rod ends easier anyways.

So what are everyone's thoughts? Do I;

1. Go ahead and crank the torsion bars and do an alignment and then do the rest when I get home

2. replace the inner tie rod ends, crank torsion bars and do alignment and then replace the bushings when home

3. Try to find bushings and do everything

I don't have too many tools with me and prefer to just have the work done professionally at this point. If I was home I might mess around with doing it myself but not right now. The other concern I have is that I don't want to be repeating work done when I get home because I didn't do everything so I'm leaning towards doing nothing and getting it done when I return but I hate to drive a sickly vehicle.

Here are the best pictures I could take... the centre of the photo is the bushing in question. If this is indeed the lower control arm bushing what do I need to ask for at the parts store? If it is the lower I have no idea what kind of shape the upper is in but I definitely won't be sending away for a completely new control arm to be sent across the country.

[jessef]

option 1 cheap way

option 2 if you can get the inner tie rods

option 3 is best left when you get home

[thedjjack]

Professional Mechanics?

Torsion bars = 17mm wrench and turning no big deal (do this yourself 15minutes)
-if it is the lower control arm bushings you should be fine as the extra force goes to the uppers

Tie rods if they are truely bad fix them....you do not want failure driving (I am not convinced they are bad)
-jack up a front wheel and pry on it does it have steering play before the tire on the ground moves? look for the play

Post up on overlander see if someone will help...

Just drive it (I have spent lees $400 on cars changed the oil and driven 100,000km without repair....you will be fine)

just drive it like it is worse case is you wear down two tires....second mechanic found no tie rod prblem (these mechanics do not seem to be interested in working on your truck)....

[nxski]

I do have the inner tie rod ends already. I tried cranking the torsion bars myself and even with an extender and kicking it I couldn't get them to budge. If I lift the van up the wheels do have a little bit of sideways play but I don't know how much is excessive and how much is minimal, I've driven about 6000km with them like that and have another 10,000km to go.

I'm leaning towards just leaving it and possibly stopping in at Right Drive in Ontario if I start to get really concerned.

[nxski]

One other question... I stupidly didn't check my oil levels for quite a while. I'd noticed that I was loosing a little bit of oil earlier in my trip but yesterday I had to add 2 extra litres. I know I have a few leaks and there's a bit in my catch can but considering I lost 2L over about 13-14,000km I figure that's not too bad!? I never see any drips under my van when parked so I'm guessing it just drips a little bit when it warms up. I also have a feeling that some of what was in there was 5W40 because I put in 10L when I installed my bypass unit but when it came to changin the oil it only took about 7.5L which could explain why it leaked out so easily in the hot weather!? Basically just looking for reassurance that as long as I keep an eye on my oil levels I should be fine for driving...

[legionnair]

Just get your passenger to turn the steering wheel back and forth from 10 and 2 o clock position quickly. Then you climb under the vehicle and feel all the tie rod ends anything that has a lot of wiggle or movement is done a little is fine you will know the difference.

If you are diving a lot of gravel roads then maybe keep an eye on it. If it paved roads wait until you get home

[nxski]

Just a little bit of wiggle and almost only paved roads so I'll just see how it goes and I'll try to make it home as is. I'll try BS&F in New York to see if they can see if they have a bushing that will work. If television is truthful, they never have a problem finding parts.

[nxski]

Well the front right seems to be giving in. The wear on that tire is very noticeable from just one days driving on the blue ridge parkway (too many tight corners I guess). Also, there is a weird metal on metal feeling/sounds that I can't really describe. I'm hoping to find a match for my bushings and do everything in Ithaca now. Hopefully BS&F in New York can find me a match and if not maybe Right Drive can send something down quickly and cheaply. I really can't imagine I'd need to get original bushings just to get me home, even in the worst case scenario I could always just carve out some bushings. (this of course is assuming the upper control arm bushings are still intact).

[Feds]

Depending on where you are/where you are going... (and when, I guess, since I'm not available between the 14th and 21st)...

If you are planning on coming to Niagara Falls, you can have the parts shipped to my house, and put them in yourself (and/or with my help) at my place.

I won't take your money, but 12 year old scotch or big-ass packages of bottle rockets are acceptable.

PM me if it can work.

[nxski]

That's a great offer, thank you very much. I'll keep you posted since I will be in that area but not for a month or so and I'm hoping to get this problem fixed sooner rather than later.