Another glow plug thread

[foxycanuck]

I've done a lot of reading of glow plug threads for the L400 (whatever I could find) and have started hunting around as I think I might have a glow plug issue.

I've been finding some parts cheaper from England and Australia on ebay.co.uk and came across a few sets of plugs:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-Pa ... 3372e60be1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-DE ... 1e682a151b

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Glow-Plugs- ... 1c242add56

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-DE ... 2314b2c4d9

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-DE ... 5d2c778563

Any thoughts on them?

[nxski]

You THINK you have a glow plug problem? Care to share the symptoms? You want to check that the specs on the glow plugs are correct. For the L300 I ended up getting plugs with the wrong resistance. It's my understanding that the L400's and non-quick glow plug system L300's are easier to find plugs for.

[foxycanuck]

The standard... rough starts when its cold... injectors are good and recently cleaned, battery is strong. Starts great if I plug it in. Gonna check the plugs this weekend and see if I need new ones (or a connector plate).

Just exploring different options for replacement parts.

[nxski]

I had the same issue and it turned out not to be the glow plugs. Is test the glow plugs before spending the money on replacing them. I think my problem is the valve stems!?

[psilosin]

If its not the plugs its likely the glow plug relay. I had the same symptoms. Easy to check if the relay is working or not, actually easier to check that first before testing the plugs. Let me know if you need some tips on testing and/or repairing the relay.

EDIT: found my relay repair post. http://www.delica.ca/forum/l400-glow-pl ... 12336.html

[lopar]

"IF" you need to replace them (I agree with checking current plugs before replacing them), go with Mitsubishis or NGK CY55s as your only two 2 choices....... or beware the consequences........ boogity boogity boo! <=== hope that was scary enough of a warning.

[Pajero]

I had Really bad luck with the HKT glow plugs, have had some hyundai plugs for a while now. At first they seemed fine but I think a couple of them are not heating up as quick as the others, thought maybe the bussbar so replaced it with a wire to each plug and tested the continuity through each plug seems ok but it sounds like a couple cylinders are missing on start up when cold.......thinking the mistubishi plugs are the only way to go now.....and now would have been cheaper...


Joe

[madmazda]

I had hyundai plugs as well lasted part of a winter switched to the ngk cy-55 they are a lot better unless its really cold and I forget to plug in other than that no starting issues, some chugging when coldbut thats normal

[foxycanuck]

lopar - what consequences? You make it sound like they will damage the engine.

I'm not convinced that spending $200 a glow plug is more economical than spending 100 - 150 for a set of 4. I could literally by 6 entire sets for the cost of one mitsubishi. The second link (ADL-Blueprint) have a 1 year warranty, the third link (italian brand) have a 2 year warranty... Are they that confident or do they trust its too much of a pain in the ass to warranty something like that?

What about the Bosch ones? They seem like a reasonable middle ground.

[Pajero]

I had hyundai plugs as well lasted part of a winter switched to the ngk cy-55 they are a lot better unless its really cold and I forget to plug in other than that no starting issues, some chugging when coldbut thats normal

Where did you buy the NGK plugs and do you have the Part #? price?

Joe

[tonydca]

As a rule of thumb check, a faulty glow-plug will likely result in a chugging startup when cold, but a rhythmic one ('cuz it's the same cylinder failing to fire each time: chug-chug-chug-chug), where systemic things like glow plug relay, bussbar, IP seal, etc. will make a more random stutter when it's having trouble because it's a failure for all cylinders to reliably fire (chug-chuggity-chug-chug-chuggity-chuggity-chug). Does that make sense?

I too had problems with HKT plugs, but knock-on-wood, my Hyundai replacements are working well 2 years in.

One thing to note - I think it is wise to replace all four at once if you do find out that one or more is/are starting to go. All plugs should have the same resistance to draw the same amount of current, and mixing new plugs with old may cause some to be running hotter than others if they differ.

[lopar]

Where did you buy the NGK plugs and do you have the Part #? price?

could try CCAUTOS (don't know their price) <=== they know about the good sh$%t

NGK CY55, #3861

Just search for CY55 on different ebays (got mine from UK Ebay)

strikingly similar to Mitsu green tops........ (maybe even the same...... )

hope this helps!

[foxycanuck]

Okay, I'm thinking its not the glow plugs now. I got out the trusty multimeter yesterday and traces as much as I easily could.

I get power from the negative terminal of the battery to the fusible link, and I get power from the fusible link to the power input on the relay.

This is where I get a bit stuck. I don't seem to get power from the relay to the little bolt on the bar the connects all the glow plugs, and I get no voltage from that bolt to a glow plug, or from one glow plug to another.

My understanding is that if I put the probes on the negative terminal of the battery to the glow plug bar I should see 12 - 14 V? And that if I put a probe on the bar and another on a glow plug I should see 12 - 14V (when they are on, after the first click).

Am I doing this right?

[psilosin]

To test relay:

1. ignition off. (-) probe on neg of battery or chassis ground. (+) probe on the relay input. If 12+ volts then the relay is getting power.
2. ignition off. remove trigger wire from relay (center small wire with a femake spade connector). move (+) probe to the trigger wire, should be 0v...have friend turn igntion to run, should now be 12+v for ~6seconds. If so you verified trigger is working.
3. ignition off. reattach trigger wire to relay. move (+) probe to relay output, should be 0v. have friend turn ignition to run...should be 12+ volts for ~6 seconds. If it stays at 0v then relay is pooped and either needs replacement or refurbishment.

[Pajero]

I tested mine the other day and it seems to work fine cuts out after you hear the click, but I noticed when it was running it was powered up again until the motor was warm, Is this normal?