First off I'm not very tech savvy, so if I sound like an idiot that is why.
My glow plug system ceased to work after my last trip up to Port Refrew. I no longer here two clicks when putting my ignition to the ON position. I have checked the voltage of the glow plug rail and it is not getting anything (ignition ON of course). I figure the next set is to have a look at the relays. Thing is there is something directly on top of the relays that I will need to remove. Looks easy enough to remove but I'm just curious what it is? Here is a picture:
And just to be on the safe side these are relays for the glow plug system right?
If all the glow plugs and relays work would it be safe to assume that the GCU is damaged?
Glow plug timing problems very rarely have been issues of the relays (at least from what I've read on this forum and experienced with my own vehicle). More often than not, it's the water temp sensor or the glow plugs. If your plugs are fine (a visual inspection will be required, and/or a quick voltage test), then it tends to be the glow plug ECU in these old vans - there are older-styled capacitors on the printed circuit boards that tend to leak/die/no-longer-work.
If your dashboard water temp sensor no longer reads correctly (i.e. it's all over the place, doesn't register at all), it basically tells the ECU the engine is warm enough and the glow plugs are not needed. Remember, glow plugs only provide a hot spot to assist with ignition when the cylinder is cold - a warm engine will start with residual block heat and compression. The water temperature sensor in question is the two-wire sensor at the front of the engine block - search the forum, there is lots of entries on this topic.
As Mararmeisto says.... either the circuit board. Or the 2 prong plug for the water coolant temp (located near the front of your engine). There is also a single prong plug there which merely gives your dashboard guage the info, BUT it is the 2 prong plug that talks to the glow plugs. In winter, that 2 prong plug dead will prevent you starting. In summer you will start with a couple extra seconds of cranking, and extra black smoke ... but menatime you are putting extra strain your entire starting and electrical system so do your troubleshooting now.
Reminder that the actual ECU printed circuit board which is located in the pillar behind the drivers seat, where you hear the click noise, can be repaired by a little old man in a TV repair or ham radio shop. Some delica repair shops can repair them also, or trade you a repaired one for your used one. You do not need to buy a brand new one, often its just one little capacitor that has burnt out (very obviuous when you look at it) and the little old TV repair man just replaces with a matching capacitor.
As to the oil catch tank (thanks Steven at Rising Sun for Translating), it is a fancy add on that some people here have discussed. Owners such as Profister, Fexlboi, Delicat might have more info on what it does. Careful undoing it, put rags to protect your fancy electrical below it, and careful retightening it back on so you don't get drips (nor air into your system).
NOte glow plug and ECU stuff is HIGH Voltage, be careful. Undo your battery cable before mucking about. And there will be capacitors etc with stored voltage just begging you to touch (ouch).
Christine.
Christine
Of The TardisDeli My TardisDeli travels thru time and space. Our house is nicknamed the TardisDeli Motel, as so many delii owners visit to share delii stories.
Already on it. I have a guy that repairs my music gear for me and he is just excellent with this sort of thing. Taking it to him tonight so I should know by tomorrow if it'll work. If it does I'll happily pass on his contacts to anybody that has the same issue in the Victoria area. Fingers crossed.
@Steven, I will take you up on that if this doesn't work. Thanks again.
Help please - I am new to Diesels. My Glow plugs are clicking on and off while I drive. I have checked and re-checked key position. It really happens just after start up but has been getting progressively worse and was doing it on Hwy today. Will go outside now and look for burnt out Solenoid on ECU as suggested in this thread. The lots of clicking atlfter start up makes me think it is a temperature sensor issue or something perhaps? Maybe relay keeps sending electrical signal
Pulse? I suspect ECU
I had the same symptoms on mine a few years ago, my temp sensor turned out to be the cause. Replaced and no problems for a long time. Then I had my ECU go, I sent away for an ECU from CCAuto as nobody else in the lower mainland had one at the time... turns out it wasn't my ECU after all but the was the wiring, If you do need a new ECU I do have one still in the box waiting for a home. Good Luck.
Christine
Of The TardisDeli My TardisDeli travels thru time and space. Our house is nicknamed the TardisDeli Motel, as so many delii owners visit to share delii stories.
Note, you can build a simple glow plug relay tester that you can have in cab as shown here:
It would be really interesting if there was a way to do this for each glow plug, so you could see if the plugs were operating properly from inside the cab just by watching each glow plug LED.
Changed my ECU and it solved my tandem glow plug & headlights clicking on and off, on and off again issue while driving. History was both my glow plugs and headlights in tandem were going on and off etc. so it sounded like a fried ECU circuit or a wiring problem. If anyone else has this issue here is how you fix:
1) Get a new ECU from one of the dealers
2) The ECU is against the wall between the passenger door and sliding door, oppisite the gas cap for a reference.
3) Pull off the strip on the passenger side door, pull off the plastic shroud on the wall.
4) Unbolt the seatbelt mount bolt. there is one on the outside and one on the inside once you pull off the plastic shround. Undo the second bolt behind the plastic shroud. Pull the seatbelt out of the way. You will see the
ECU inside the wall.
5) Open the door over the opening behind the passendger side seat which gives you access to the air intake and top of air filter. There is one plastic pipe that is bolted to the wall by a (~10mm?) bolt that you will have to undo then pipe pulls out. Next there are three 10mm bolts that hold the ECU to the wall (see picture below where I am pointing at bottom third bolt) make sure not to drop them. Once undone, pull the ECU out, unclip the wires, insert into the new ECU and do everything in reverse. Drive and cross your fingers that your problem is solved.
dr_airtime wrote:Changed my ECU and it solved my tandem glow plug & headlights clicking on and off, on and off again issue while driving. History was both my glow plugs and headlights in tandem were going on and off etc. so it sounded like a fried ECU circuit or a wiring problem. If anyone else has this issue here is how you fix:
1) Get a new ECU from one of the dealers
That, or you can always have your current ECU repaired. Good job with the replacement, it's no easy feat even when you don't have a big wooden bulkhead in front of the pillar.
Live the life you love, love the life you live...
Had: 1991 Mitsubishi Delica L300 SuperExceed, heavily modified (totalled by a drunk driver)
Have: 2011 Acura CSX manual, lightly modified
Want: Mitsubishi Pajero Evo
