Rotors rotating / Removing Auto Hubs - Failure to Success

[nxski]

I want to remove my hubs etc so I can take off the studs but whenever I try to remove the bolts holding everything in place the assembly just spins freely. No doubt this is a really stupid question but how can I stop this rotation so I can actually get some leverage? I tried putting a rock on the brake pedal but it would exerpt enough force to really help.
Thanks

[Profister]

Stick a metal bar between the studs.

[nxski]

Nice and simple, I like it. I'll give that a go.

[nxski]

It's up on Jack stands for the night (My allan key wasn't strong enough). I used the handle of a wrench between the studs and that worked out well. I also quickly learnt not to put my finger between the allan key and the wrench when I took off my knuckle on the first attempt.

[Luna-Sea]

Hey,
Good to see you are wrenching away.
If you put the lug nuts back on it will keep you
From damaging the the threads if you lever against
Them. The allen keys can be a a pain,so pre wd-40
A straight on smack with a flat punch will help loosen them. Make sure the allen hole in nice and clean so your
key gets a nice snug fit, I tap them in gently with a hammer to minimize the possibilty of stripping them.

Right On!

[nxski]

Excellent advice! I have to try some of those tricks when I get back. I also need a new Allen key as it is now circular. I don't think aluminum is the best material to use luckily nothing on the vehicle is striped. I'm not too worried about damaging the studs either as I'm replacing them anyways.

[nxski]

So I am having problems getting my auto hub off. It sounded as though I would need an allen key and a ratchet. Now that I have found this post http://community.webshots.com/album/359792027RPuxHZ on the UK site I'm having doubts. The problem is that I don't have all of the tools specified. Is there a work around that people have found for removing the autohub? Here is a picture of the stage I'm at...

[Firesong]

In a pinch use some big pliers, even a pipe wrench to turn the center cap off.
It won't be that hard. I have some of those pliers.. hmm you know that kind
you use for plumbing. Princess auto sells them for 10$

You are almost all done!

FS

[nxski]

I wish I had a garage full of tools but alas I have just begun collecting (no wrench that's big enough). It seems that I'll have to go out and buy some more tomorrow. At least it will cost less than having it done at a shop and I'll have tools to show for it at the end.
Thanks for the reply!

[Profister]

I was using this tool when I was in your shoes.

[nxski]

Thanks! And that worked well for you? I'm glad Crappy Tire seems to have everything I need because I have to go and return a whole bunch of lugs that are the wrong size. Since when does 1.25 sound like 1.5?

[jessef]

tsk tsk

By the way. You'll need more tools if you're pulling the hub off to replace the rotor.

You'll need some lock ring pliers to remove the c-clip that holds the cv shaft in place.

Looks like this :



So you don't strip the phillips head bolts that screw into the retainer ring (that you use to adjust the hub play), you should have a impact driver tool that you wack with a hammer and it uses impact force to crack the screw/bolt loose (reverse impact).

If you don't have one and end up stripping the phillips head, you're literally screwed and will have to drill it out. This tool is worth it's weight in gold the first time you use it. I would not work on a vehicle that has a large philips screw head without one of these. Trust me. You'll use it more than once.

Looks like this :



Also make sure not to damage the hub seal when cracking the hub from the rotor loose.

When you need to brace the hub/at the studs, don't forget to use something pliable so you don't crush the stud threads otherwise you won't be able to spin on a lug nut and will have to replace the stud. I've done it before.

[nxski]

The rotors are fine actually, the only thing I'm doing is replacing all of the studs. I've started with the front and haven't even looked at the rear yet. I figured the only other tools I need are a Socket driven chain style filter wrench or a boa constrictor strap wrench and outer circlip pliers. Will I need any other tools for the rear? I'll look into the impact driver tool as well, it looks very useful. Is this still something I will need for replacing the studs though or only if I'm doing the rotors? This link http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1359831 ... 7953cMkaRS says the screws are "SO easy to remove" Luck perhaps?

[jessef]

They shouldn't be easy otherwise they can back off on their own.

I stripped one of mine before I got smart and used the right tools.

The impact driver is only necessary if you can't remove it with a normal philips but the head is soft and usually if the philips screwdriver doesnt crack it loose, it's easy to strip it.

You'll need to remove the above bits to get the whole hub unit out to replace the studs.

One thing.

If you are going though all this trouble and spend the 99% of labor to remove the hubs, pay a few bucks and get the rotors remachined. Take them to Midas or anywhere that can turn them.

You'll have fresh rotors. Doesn't make sense to pull the hub assembly and skip the rotors unless they were new or turned recently.

[nxski]

I was going to take the rotors in but I've just been given a strict deadline for when my van has to be moved
On the plus side I have all of the tools now. Canadian Tire didn't have everything I needed but when I went to lordco they gave me more than 50% off because they felt sorry for me. (I go in there a few times a week to buy parts and tools)