Question about changing fuel filter
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Question about changing fuel filter
Totally newbie question about changing the fuel filter, never done it before. I looked up the post on how to do it... seems easy enough (take off intercooler and battery, put new filter in housing, prime pump), but its that last step I don't know anything about. How do I prime it, and what pump? I assume fuel pump?
- jessef
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
ontop of the fuel filter housing there is a 3" mushroom cap which is the manual pump. you can push it down with your hand. on the side of the top section of the fuel filter housing there is a small 8mm (10mm head) bolt that is the bleed valve. Undo that and then pump the plunger at the top until fuel comes out. Then screw the bolt back in and start.
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
Sweet... thanks
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
might as well fill the filter up with seafoam! :)
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
Foxy I'm in Calgary as well and have to change mine soon if you want a hand I'd be more than willing to lend a hand we could do ours together
I'm gone this weekend but possibly during the week or weeekend pm me if you want help yeah

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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
hi folks, ended up here after doing searches on changing the fuel filter, just to make sure, and was hoping to see pics.
here's another post: http://www.delica.ca/forum/l400-fuel-fi ... uel+filter
anyway, i was wondering what everyon'es change interval was for their fuel filters on their L400s?
i've read different things from as low as every10K to every year and a half (if say you kept the tank half full all the time and never ran it close to "E", i have let the fuel light goes on on some occassions, so safe to assume more chance of debris getting in the filter, etc..). i've put over 20 K on the rig since this summer so i think i'm definitely due! and like most diesel engines, these filters are 4X bigger than the petrol counterparts.
i'm also a little confused as the pics on the manual has you using a vise (that necessary? or is the shoppe manual telling you to remove the housing/pump, then put that in the vise then remove the filter cartridge. on step 4 on 13F-3 on manual, that really necessary?). i'm guessing the water level sensor would come off first (catch the diesel underneath), then unscrew, then replace filter, re-attach water sensor THEN fill with diesel or seafoam, then spin filter back on, prime/loosen breather screw and start! also, are these filters hand tightened only, like nice and snug is enough? thanks in advance.
(key words: fuel filter replacement replace change l400 )
here's another post: http://www.delica.ca/forum/l400-fuel-fi ... uel+filter
anyway, i was wondering what everyon'es change interval was for their fuel filters on their L400s?
i've read different things from as low as every10K to every year and a half (if say you kept the tank half full all the time and never ran it close to "E", i have let the fuel light goes on on some occassions, so safe to assume more chance of debris getting in the filter, etc..). i've put over 20 K on the rig since this summer so i think i'm definitely due! and like most diesel engines, these filters are 4X bigger than the petrol counterparts.
i'm also a little confused as the pics on the manual has you using a vise (that necessary? or is the shoppe manual telling you to remove the housing/pump, then put that in the vise then remove the filter cartridge. on step 4 on 13F-3 on manual, that really necessary?). i'm guessing the water level sensor would come off first (catch the diesel underneath), then unscrew, then replace filter, re-attach water sensor THEN fill with diesel or seafoam, then spin filter back on, prime/loosen breather screw and start! also, are these filters hand tightened only, like nice and snug is enough? thanks in advance.
(key words: fuel filter replacement replace change l400 )
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- jessef
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
the new filter comes with an o-ring for the drain valve (bottom). lubricate the oil with oil or diesel before putting it on. tighten by hand. lubricate the main seal (top of filter) with oil or diesel before putting it on the filter housing. same deal. tighten by hand.
I always put the new o-ring/drain valve on first, then fill with seafoam (if using it) and then spin onto the filter housing.
prime and check for leaks. if it's leaking, you didn't tighten it enough.
it's self explanatory. only one way to do it.
I changed my fuel filter every spring after driving through winter regardless of mileage because the diesel blend/grade/quality changes at the pump from winter to spring-summer. Filters are cheap and once you've swapped it out, every time after that is a simple job without special tools. cheap insurance to keep the ip/injectors clean.
I always put the new o-ring/drain valve on first, then fill with seafoam (if using it) and then spin onto the filter housing.
prime and check for leaks. if it's leaking, you didn't tighten it enough.
it's self explanatory. only one way to do it.
I changed my fuel filter every spring after driving through winter regardless of mileage because the diesel blend/grade/quality changes at the pump from winter to spring-summer. Filters are cheap and once you've swapped it out, every time after that is a simple job without special tools. cheap insurance to keep the ip/injectors clean.
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
Hey Jesse, where have you been grabbing them cheap? Im used to paying around 40, so figured that was bit high for what it is?
Thanks.
Thanks.
'94 SWB Pajero 2.8L ITD, '94 LWB Pajero 3.5L DOHC 

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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
awesome, thanks for the detail on that Jessie! really appreciate it! i've changed engine oil dozens of times and didn't think to lubricate the seals on this one too, thanks for that reminder.
and speakin of these filters, it's been a pain to cross reference it with wix/donaldson (since i have an account with amsoil and get them cheaper there) had some shipped from mardy at amazing auto, thanks. think i'll follow the spring time routine as well starting next change. just gotta deal with the dual batteries everytime, doh!
cheers
and speakin of these filters, it's been a pain to cross reference it with wix/donaldson (since i have an account with amsoil and get them cheaper there) had some shipped from mardy at amazing auto, thanks. think i'll follow the spring time routine as well starting next change. just gotta deal with the dual batteries everytime, doh!
cheers
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- jessef
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
have to check on the wix number
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
okay, just did the filter last weekend and took some pics. this is for the first timers or any newbs feeling a little leary about tryin to change their own fuel filter. all you need is a basic socket/wrench set, pliers, vise, and filter wrench. i'm a visual learner so here it goes...

remove 4 bolts around the intercooler, then i just propped it up with a piece of wood just enough to give room to remove batteries...(same process as getting at the oil sensor to change sensor or to T off with a bypass filter..)

remove dual battery terminals, whichever way looks easiest (negative off first, then move cable out off the way over the headlights). remove bracket that holds batteries down (NOTE: when reinstalling, do not overtighten the nut for the long piece of metal that anchors to the bottom of the battery tray, the tray/tab made of plastic and will break if overtightened. you'll also have to feel for that hole when trying to hook it when the bracket goes back on the batteries, be patient).

these batteries are heavy and in an awkward position. be gentle but firm as you wiggle it out, and to avoid dropping it or scratching your bumper/headlights. gloves are nice to have on.
and there's your filter..

(notice cracked tab for where the long metal piece hooks on to to secure battery bracket, just hand tight)
need pliers to remove the clamps around the house (the hoses will just wiggle loose and away). take clamps out and set aside, it'd suck if it fell down into the engine bay. expect a small amount of fuel to drip out, catch with rag.
disconnect 2 lines into the pump and the one line into the water sensor underneath, remember where they go..

unscrew the filter... note: the water sensor is in there good and that stays on the filter, so be carefull not to twist/kink the sensor wires as you twist the filter off (it's all tight and cramp in there). the rubber hose will spin on it self though. so turn, unravel the wires, and turn and so on.. i was lucky that i had an old motorcycle filter wrench that just fit perfectly, a little tricky to get it around but with some wiggling you'll get it, or just a clamp style filter wrench (there was no way i was going to lossen this by hand!) don't forget to disconnect the water sensor wire terminal (and reconnect it)



remove filter, and remove water sensor carefully as it's made of plastic (this is where the vise comes in handy as i had no other tool to use, don't clamp it too tight, it'll twist off easy with bare hands). inspect, water sensor (didn't know there was a float there, guess that goes up when enough water builds, then it's released out the hose, cool!). replace o ring and lube that and the other seal with oil. re install water sensor, hand tight.
before filling with diesel or seafom, do a practice spin so you get the feel for it, it get's heaveier with the fluid back in (imho). fill and spin back on and hand tight 3/4 turn (directions on filter as well). it's still lefty loosy/righty tighty but upside down ;)


re-attach hoses and clamps. loosen bleeding screw, and pump till fuel comes out, tighten screw.
re-install battery/terminals/intercooler and start vehicle and inspect for leaks. (you really should make sure everything is back and tight because it'll be a pain to remove everything again after you've run the vehicle)

take for a spin on the highway and voila. i noticed no smoke after the seafoam and it honestly felt like it ran better and smoother...or maybe it's just in my head after reading all the posts on seafoam! btw, you need more than 1 can of seafoam to fill the filter, so i had to just pump a little extra diesel to fill the filter all the way.
OR, you can remove the filter housing/bracket with the 2 bolts on top (then using the vise to remove the filter from the pump). but i get it, those 2 bolts are kinda tricky to get to, so you can just spin the filter off where it sits...your preference.
hope that helps anyone else down the road. thanks again for the advice from the experts! :)
cheers.
btw, this job would be perfect for lefty's! i'm a righty

remove 4 bolts around the intercooler, then i just propped it up with a piece of wood just enough to give room to remove batteries...(same process as getting at the oil sensor to change sensor or to T off with a bypass filter..)

remove dual battery terminals, whichever way looks easiest (negative off first, then move cable out off the way over the headlights). remove bracket that holds batteries down (NOTE: when reinstalling, do not overtighten the nut for the long piece of metal that anchors to the bottom of the battery tray, the tray/tab made of plastic and will break if overtightened. you'll also have to feel for that hole when trying to hook it when the bracket goes back on the batteries, be patient).

these batteries are heavy and in an awkward position. be gentle but firm as you wiggle it out, and to avoid dropping it or scratching your bumper/headlights. gloves are nice to have on.
and there's your filter..

(notice cracked tab for where the long metal piece hooks on to to secure battery bracket, just hand tight)
need pliers to remove the clamps around the house (the hoses will just wiggle loose and away). take clamps out and set aside, it'd suck if it fell down into the engine bay. expect a small amount of fuel to drip out, catch with rag.
disconnect 2 lines into the pump and the one line into the water sensor underneath, remember where they go..

unscrew the filter... note: the water sensor is in there good and that stays on the filter, so be carefull not to twist/kink the sensor wires as you twist the filter off (it's all tight and cramp in there). the rubber hose will spin on it self though. so turn, unravel the wires, and turn and so on.. i was lucky that i had an old motorcycle filter wrench that just fit perfectly, a little tricky to get it around but with some wiggling you'll get it, or just a clamp style filter wrench (there was no way i was going to lossen this by hand!) don't forget to disconnect the water sensor wire terminal (and reconnect it)



remove filter, and remove water sensor carefully as it's made of plastic (this is where the vise comes in handy as i had no other tool to use, don't clamp it too tight, it'll twist off easy with bare hands). inspect, water sensor (didn't know there was a float there, guess that goes up when enough water builds, then it's released out the hose, cool!). replace o ring and lube that and the other seal with oil. re install water sensor, hand tight.
before filling with diesel or seafom, do a practice spin so you get the feel for it, it get's heaveier with the fluid back in (imho). fill and spin back on and hand tight 3/4 turn (directions on filter as well). it's still lefty loosy/righty tighty but upside down ;)


re-attach hoses and clamps. loosen bleeding screw, and pump till fuel comes out, tighten screw.
re-install battery/terminals/intercooler and start vehicle and inspect for leaks. (you really should make sure everything is back and tight because it'll be a pain to remove everything again after you've run the vehicle)

take for a spin on the highway and voila. i noticed no smoke after the seafoam and it honestly felt like it ran better and smoother...or maybe it's just in my head after reading all the posts on seafoam! btw, you need more than 1 can of seafoam to fill the filter, so i had to just pump a little extra diesel to fill the filter all the way.
OR, you can remove the filter housing/bracket with the 2 bolts on top (then using the vise to remove the filter from the pump). but i get it, those 2 bolts are kinda tricky to get to, so you can just spin the filter off where it sits...your preference.
hope that helps anyone else down the road. thanks again for the advice from the experts! :)
cheers.
btw, this job would be perfect for lefty's! i'm a righty
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
Amazing! Thanks for the photos!
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
thanks foxycanuck! lol, i shoulda asked before jackin your thread! 

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- mycale2
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
what is the part # for that fuel filter??? looking to change mine out here in Victoria....
- mycale2
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Re: Question about changing fuel filter
NEVERMIND, I called Lordco (Burnside, Victoria) and much to my surprise they have the part #'s and parts on hand for many JDM vehicles. I guess I shoulda just called them first!