Pollack Valve Wiring Instructions?

[Adam]

Anyone got the instruction for wiring the Pollack Value? I can't seem to find mine. I'm tiring to wire from the valve's D and E wires to the toggle switch. Thanks, I'll keep looking, or trying random combinations with the wires until something works or starts to smoke.

[josh]

Adam,

It shouldn't be to hard, one side to the battery, and one side to the switch right? If its wrong you just reverse the leads... but I am just guessing as I never had the pollack valve. Wish I could be more help. It sounds like you are plugging through it though. Anyhow, I am off to bed, gotta be up at 3:30am for work. Thats right, I am no longer an unemployed bum like Kevin (man I am being hard on that guy good thing he is gone on vacation!)

Josh

[Adam]

It shouldn't be that hard, but I haven't figured it out yet

I think I'll invest in a test light to see if the wires are connected properly. The toggle switch that came with the Pollack valve has 6 terminals. I have to use one as a ground, then I think the other two are attached to the 'D' and 'E' wires on the Pollack valve. The 'D' wire is connected to the terminal '30' of the VegTherm wiring pigtail and the toggle switch via a 3-way connector. It looks like wire 'E' from the Pollack valve goes directly to one of the six toggle switch terminals. It sure would be nice if all these instruction were in one document

[BCDelica]

Adam, do you have a cheap volt meter to check continuity? Cambodia tire - $9.95 (I use one like that and leave my Fluke at home). Maybe PM Andy as he has used a Pollack valve.

Josh, yeah it's been tough. Got back from Bamfield Saturday and grabbed the trailer (same day) to go camping here in Powell for 3 nights. No Delicas spotted in Bamfield/Pachane Bay, but heard from friends in Tofino/Uke who counted 11 different Delica's there last week. It's wild that my friends tell me when ever they see a Delica, but I never think to tell them I saw a Dodge diesel truck, a Dodge van, etc. Too funny. Well I'm unpacked, but leave for Vancouver tomorrow then onto the Island for more camping. Don't know if I should say congrats or bummer for you Josh!

Regards

[Adam]

Adam, do you have a cheap volt meter to check continuity? Cambodia tire - $9.95 (I use one like that and leave my Fluke at home). Maybe PM Andy as he has used a Pollack valve

I got a test light from Lordco and managed to the the value wired properly to the toggle switch. Now I'm trying to get the VegTherm to activate in either of the toggle switch positions. Right now I'm trying to figure out the relay. The only wire that is hot is the one wired directly to the battery. I've tested to make sure the that everything is grounded properly, and that the VegTherm works when wired directly to the battery. I'll have to wait until my wife brings the van back from Victoria tomorrow to look at it more.

[Adam]

Just a follow up post, I got Pollack Valve and the VegTherm working together now. The fault was a poorly constructed 3-way connector that I didn't check properly. It all looks good now, although I'm able to switch the value and turn on the VegTherm without the key in the ignition, so I think I need to work on the wiring a bit more, don't want the kids being able to flip the WVO switch while the car is off and have things start to heat up.

[sean]

HI Adam,

Seems like things are rolling along for you just fine.

My kit was waiting for me when I arrived back on Monday from a Trip to Quebec for two weeks. I just mounted the Pollack Valve and the toggle switch this morning but wondering if I have to go and buy wire to connect or if I am running wire that already exists on the van? The wire leads off the valve are not long enough to reach the toggle. I am realizing that the hardest part for me will be the electrical. The mounting and fuel/coolant line will hopefully be the easy part.
I have the wiring diagram which I can scan and email if you like.

Get back to me.
Sean

[Adam]

Hey Sean,

Nice to have another forum user going through the process with me. Sure is hard to find the time this summer to get the kit installed, but is is coming along. No need to send me the Pollack valve diagram, I found mine in the garage. It turns out I didn't need it, my problems related to the proper wiring of the toggle switch and that one of my connections wasn't good. The only electrical issue I seem to have now is how to prevent the toggle switch from activating the VegTherm while the ignition is shut off. I'm sure the answer is in the instruction, so I guess I'll have to read them again:-)

I bought a few packs of 16 gauge wire from Lordco as well as some bullet connectors, ring connectors and wire crimpers. I was going to cheap out and not get the wire crimpers, but the sure are handy and for $10, well worth the cost.

Where did you end up mounting the Pollack Valve? I'm still debating on whether I need to build a bracket for it or not. I should bug Josh for some close ups of the bracket he used for his two 3-port valves.

For myself it looks like the hardest part will be mounting the fuel tank. Still waiting to see if I can get a custom Delica tank from Noel to save me the hassle of re-routing my exhaust. What are you using for a tank?

[docsavage]

Hey, I'm a little slow here, but this is how mine is wired from the original GM application. From the solenoid to the valve side (left to right upside down):

Blank
Dark Green to dash switch (RH Tank)
Light Green to switch (LH Tank)
Pink to fuel guage
Pink/Black to RH Tank
Pink/? to LH Tank


On the switch, from the back

Left top - Pole 2 on connector
Right Top - Pole 3 on connector
Left Bottom - 12v switched source
Right Bottom - Ground

Hope this is useful, I will try to get pictures shortly.

James

[sean]

Here are a couple of pics Edward Beggs from Plant Drive sent me. He recently converted a Delica from Victoria. There are more pictures if people are interested. Mostly of the fuel line runnning down the van and some tank pictures.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8593639@N02/1272391645/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8593639@N0 ... otostream/

You will see that the Pollock valve is mounted beside battery. I did that today, a bit tight getting the bolts on without removing my two batteries. A long thin magnet would have come in handy for dropped bolts into battery compartment.

As for the tank Adam, I went and tried one of those Tempo tanks we talked about and it fit in the spare tire space with room to spare. Would be very easy to secure. $159 for 43.5 L

Went to a welding shop and for them to fabricate a tank, $600-$800. He also told me that by law he can not "officiallly" weld a fuel tank, but if it was for just holding veg oil for, lets say, my oil wrestling matches, then no problem. But if I ever had problems with people on high ie. transport people, he had never seen me before. I guess a few years back they used to make tanks for RV's but then got letters from government stating to stop or face penalties.

Sean

[docsavage]

The fuel tank I got from a 1988 S15 at the scrapper fits the spare space perfect, is 13.2 gallons, has pickups and senders, for $100. Cleaning was $40.

James

[Adam]

Here are a couple of pics Edward Beggs from Plant Drive sent me. He recently converted a Delica from Victoria. There are more pictures if people are interested. Mostly of the fuel line runnning down the van and some tank pictures.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8593639@N02/1272391645/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8593639@N0 ... otostream/

You will see that the Pollock valve is mounted beside battery. I did that today, a bit tight getting the bolts on without removing my two batteries. A long thin magnet would have come in handy for dropped bolts into battery compartment.

Awesome, that's exactly what I needed to see. I didn't think there would be enough room to shut the hood with the Pollack mounted there, but I guess there is. Perfect, anymore pics you have would be greatly appreciated. Where did you mount your filter?

[sean]

I called my local wrecker and they just received a S15 truck yesterday. The tank is in great shape. What are the odds of that??

They want $85 bucks for it and it is already pulled off.

Adam,
I will post all the pics tonight on Flickr and post the links.
As for the filter I did not get that far.

Sean

[Adam]

Hey Sean, just looking at the two Pollack pics you've already posted. I think I like the position of the VegTherm you chose better then were mine is mounted and I'm thinking of switching it. One question though, it looks like on your set up the VO hits your VegThem before the Pollack valve. Is that right? I was told that the VegTherm should be after the Pollack, so the VO is as hot as possible before it enters the injection pump. I definitely see the advantage of putting the VegTherm before the valve, that way you don't heat any of you diesel when you switch back to purge. And given the short distances involved I don't it doesn't look like you'd lose much heat having the VegTherm before the valve as opposed to after. . However, I guess there would be a small amount of VO in the line before the valve and after the VegTherm that would not get heated at all every switch over. Not sure if this is much of an issue of not, what do you think?

[EricN]

Here is mine. I am using the VO controller and wanted the dual 3 ports instead. To the right of my bracket is room for 3 relays, vegtherm, auto run, and fuel sending unit switch. It all tucks nicely in behind the battery to the point you cant even see it without looking. The filter is right below so the fuel line comes right up through. I forgot to take a pic before I put the battery in to show it all plumbed. The "return from pump" one is not an angled fitting but a straight through so it heads into the engine compartment from there. The black felt circles are holes I cut in the body to run the lines.
Sorry about the massive pics, I can't resize the stupid things to save my life.