Pyro and Boost gauge - what kind and where did you mount 'em

[crushers]

expand: 208F average what? difference/higher/lower? identical?

The temps were almost identical except post turbo was 208F average which accounts for the post turbo readings.

[jessef]

Heading up the cut, I punch it right after the bridge and keep the throttle pinned.

Pre turbo at the exh egr location, I get max 1000 or so reading.

Post turbo at the exh pipe after the flange location, I get max 800-808 readings.

I tried the same thing at least a dozen times the past 2 weeks.

Everytime I get the same readings give or take 10 F.

[dennis_lambert]

I built my own gauge pod out of Aluminum,It might not be the cleanest looking but it works for me.The EGT Gauge is from Passport and the boost gauge came with the van from Japan.
Cheers.

[Mephisto]

The EGR block off plate on the 4D56 is in an ideal spot for the EGT probe, the 4M40 has the EGR in a "dead" spot. I initially thought the same as crusher, that the probe not being in the direct air flow (in the 4M40 EGR plate) would read low, but as Jesse has shown us, it is still accurate. Although just to be a jerk that would be 192-200 degrees diff rather than 208, but that's just splitting hairs lol. I'll probably put my pyro into my 4M40 today, I'll see what she comes up with, although it will just be pre turbo rather than both.

[crushers]

that is good to know... plus it is news to me and i like learning new things.
i thought i might move this post over from "Victoria to Montreal and almost back again" since it helps to show the differences between the coolant temp gauge and the pyrometer and why they move independent from each other. if anyone feels this is not a correct move, let me know and i will delete it.:
you are close, whether the turbo is water cooled or not really makes very little difference.
think about this (and i am NOT talking down to you, this is the way i chat with people over at Mud when we are reasonably discussing a topic):
the coolant line to and from the turbo is small, very small and the amount of coolant that actually flows through it is minimal. the effect this would have on the overall cooling system is negligeble.

your coolant removes heat from the block, the castings and shoves it throught the rad to cool. this takes time and is a slow process.
the coolant temp gauge will move up and down in corelation to the heat transfered from the block to the coolant. the coolant will not move up and down in the snap of the fingers.

the pyrometer sensor is mounted (or supposed to be mounted) as close to the turbo as possible, preferably within 3" of the downspout elbo or preturbo. exhaust gasses can heat up and cool at an alarming rate. since the probe is in very close proximity to these gases it can move from 900 to 1400 in a matter of seconds, i have seen them move as fast as your tachometer.

if you are working the engine climbing a hill, bucking a headwind, passing then the heat from the exhaust gasses can hit 1400F very very quickly but the heat from the block has not reacted yet to the coolant temp gauge has not even moved. on a decent hill you could be at 1400F for minutes before the coolant guage starts to move.
of course once you crest that hill then the block is still generating or shedding heat but the exhaust gasses are already cooling since your foot is out of the throttle and the amount of fuel you are shoving through the cylinders is minimized. so in this case the coolant gauge is now showing higher heat than the pyrometer and it might for minutes as the block cools back down to normal temp ranges.

now lets take this one step further. you are climbing a hill, the EGTs are skyrocketing so you pull your foot out of the throttle just a whee bit (it doesn't take much to change the EGTs) or dropping a gear has the same results (rpms go up, faster air flow and lower EGTs) but the engine is still working harder than normal so the block is shedding heat into the coolant. now your EGTs could be at 1000F but the coolant is working harder than normal and the coolant guage registers this and starts to rise. if the hill is long enough (think BC hills) or if the head wind is strong enough (think driving west through the flatlands) and you could be in the red coolant temp but the EGTS are still reading at a safe 1000F.
now you take the situation of this couple in the thread, driving west through the flat lands, overall it is a steady gentle uphill drive, couple that with a steady headwind and that little engine is working harder than you think pushing a 7 ft tall brick up the road.
"the previous day we did a non stop drive into the wind from winnipeg to calgary... and you know how they are, when you're against the wind you get almost half the gas mileage"
realisticly they could have been pushing easily into the 1200F or even higher the entire day. this kind of heat will cook the head and the oil being passed through the turbo. theoreticly they could have been on the verg of a blown engine when they shut down the night before. the engine cools and the next morning the head for home. at the first decent hill the poor engine says "that is it, i quit. you are a cruel master".

add to this mix that factory coolant gauges are a joke, install an aftermarket coolant gauge and compare the two as you drive down the road and you will find the aftermarket is much more sensitive than factory.

this theory is based on 30 years of actual hands on experience, not book reading, web browzing. if anyone cares enough to check out my experience head over to Mud and read some of my 13,000 TECH realated posts (over there chitchat does not add to your post count). this does not mean i do not make mistakes but what it does mean is i have a very good grasp on diesel engines and what works and what doesn't.

a PROPERLY located quality pyrometer is one of the best gauges to install in any diesel followed closely by an quality aftermarket coolant gauge.

so some of the post was directed to the original poster but the basic idea is there.
helpful?
not helpful?
what a load of crap?

The EGR block off plate on the 4D56 is in an ideal spot for the EGT probe, the 4M40 has the EGR in a "dead" spot. I initially thought the same as crusher, that the probe not being in the direct air flow (in the 4M40 EGR plate) would read low, but as Jesse has shown us, it is still accurate. Although just to be a jerk that would be 192-200 degrees diff rather than 208, but that's just splitting hairs lol. I'll probably put my pyro into my 4M40 today, I'll see what she comes up with, although it will just be pre turbo rather than both.

[Erebus]

helpful?
not helpful?
what a load of crap?

Very useful. Clarified for me what I think I already knew.

My EGTs have been higher than most people's, and lately has been higher than it used to be. Today I decided to change my air cleaner. It was very dirty. Wonder if a clean one will help it breath enough that it will show on the pyro?

[jessef]

I also have a slightly large than 2.5" exhaust. I reamed out the flange so it's a true 2.5" from the turbo all the way out.

Very short exhaust with a freeflow muffler made for turbo diesels.

It breaths very easily and it made a very noticeable difference in my pyro readings.

The large exhaust lowered my EGT's for certain.

[crushers]

for low EGTs to be maintained you need:
proper air to fuel mixture, dirty air filter will restrict the amount of air being mixed with the constant flow of fuel, higher fuel ratio and higher EGTs. how much higher? i have no idea but i could see a very dirty air filter raising the EGTs somewhat. although performance and fuel economy should have been seen as well...

Very useful. Clarified for me what I think I already knew.

My EGTs have been higher than most people's, and lately has been higher than it used to be. Today I decided to change my air cleaner. It was very dirty. Wonder if a clean one will help it breath enough that it will show on the pyro?[/quote]

[crushers]

tricks i have learned trying to make the Toyota 2.4L (2LTE) more reliable with lower EGTs:
your idea of 2.5" exhaust with a free flowing muffler is excellent. (contrary to popular belief, a larger exhaust DOES NOT increase hp or torque but because the turbo spools up faster it FEELS like there is)
increase the boost to 14 lbs (remember the only time you will see these high numbers is under full throttle pulling a trailer, bucking a head wind or climbing a hill ((i was going to say passing but then i remembered which vehicle we are talking about)) so the high boost is not a concern. more air lower EGTs
intercooler does make a big difference, cooler air in = cooler air out. the intercooler doesn't need to be huge, a small intercooler is better than none at all. too large and your response time will lag.

these are just suggestions that many of you probably already know.
cheers

I also have a slightly large than 2.5" exhaust. I reamed out the flange so it's a true 2.5" from the turbo all the way out.

Very short exhaust with a freeflow muffler made for turbo diesels.

It breaths very easily and it made a very noticeable difference in my pyro readings.

The large exhaust lowered my EGT's for certain.

[drrod]

Crusher,
Help me understand something. I always thought the object of an intercooler was to decrease the temp of the intake charge (air or air/fuel mixture), making it more dense and thus increasing the actual amount of combustible materials present in the cylinder when ignition occurs, leading to a "bigger" fire for lack of a better term. Would this not actually increase the EGT?
Rod

[crushers]

actually, the charge is heated by the turbo compressing the air thus causing it to expand, an intercooler brings the expansion back down (sometimes actually dropping the temp of the charge by 70C). if you do not change the fuel setting then the air is more dense = more air into the chamber = lower EGTs...
if you increase the fuel ratio at the same time as installing the intercooler then all bets are off...

[drrod]

Makes sense. Thanks. Virtually all, of my very limited, experience with turbos/intercoolers has been on gasoline engines where the air/fuel mixture was run through the intercooler rather than just air.
Rod

[crushers]

i am here to help if i can
(bet remember i am not perfect so i make mistakes from time to time as well)

Makes sense. Thanks. Virtually all, of my very limited, experience with turbos/intercoolers has been on gasoline engines where the air/fuel mixture was run through the intercooler rather than just air.
Rod

[pattonmaclean]

Since I am new to driving diesels it seems like this is something I should have to develop the right driving habits on the long trip to Sask.

Though Rich D has provided a great guide, I'm very hesitant to try this myself.

I'm going to get into Vancouver from Korea on Sunday June 20 to pick up my 1995 L400 and stay for a day or two before heading East. does it make more sense to get this done in Vancouver than waiting to do it when I get home?

Any idea of the shop time for this?


Thanks.

[jessef]

I miss Green1


He'd be in this thread like white on rice.