Just curious, what EGT levels are you guys hitting on the freeway at 120kph and at idle.
Just looking a for a baseline so I know what to shoot for while tuning the pump/turbo
EGT level at 120kph
-
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:14 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: L300
- Location: Abbotsford
- DeliTan
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 3:15 pm
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/index.php?cat=13029
- Vehicle: 94 L400 LWB Crystal
- Location: Delta BC
Re: EGT level at 120kph
Temps will vary widely based on the thermocouple installation. I suggest you post a pic and description of the installation and hardware used, so people with a similar installation can reply
john
john
If voting made a difference they wouldn’t let us do it – Mark Twain
- Growlerbearnz
- Posts: 2041
- Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:58 pm
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: Delica P25W
- Location: New Zealand
Re: EGT level at 120kph
My EGT probe is in the manifold where the EGR used to be (before the turbo).
Idle is 200-300F, driving around town 400-500F, highway at 100kph is around 700F, and it'll approach 1000F on a long hill.
My EGTs are a bit lower than normal because I'm running 16psi boost.
Idle is 200-300F, driving around town 400-500F, highway at 100kph is around 700F, and it'll approach 1000F on a long hill.
My EGTs are a bit lower than normal because I'm running 16psi boost.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
- cosmo727
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:18 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: 1996 Delica Starwagon Active World
- Location: Kitchener, Ontario
Re: EGT level at 120kph
Here's my EGT at 100 km/h.
Approximately 800 degrees F at 2300 rpm on a flat run. 2" lift with 31" mud (not all-terrain) tires. Pre-turbo (EGR blanking plate) installation. 9psi boost. Coolant temp is a little on the cool side. After changing the thermostat I will post back.
Approximately 800 degrees F at 2300 rpm on a flat run. 2" lift with 31" mud (not all-terrain) tires. Pre-turbo (EGR blanking plate) installation. 9psi boost. Coolant temp is a little on the cool side. After changing the thermostat I will post back.
-
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:14 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: L300
- Location: Abbotsford
Re: EGT level at 120kph
I've been fighting with my buddies van for a while now... Pre turbo thermo couple autometer gauge mounted on the EGR blanking plate. It's pulling 1200 degrees with no effort at all on the freeway and idles at 400. Granted this is good compared to when the van was purchased. It spiked 2000 degrees and was spitting flames the day it was purchased... Since then here is what I have done.
replaced air filter/fuel filter
adjusted the timing
Put the injectors on my test bench, dismantled them, sonic cleaned and re-shimmed them all to 125bar crack pressure. spray patterns are all good no drip issues.
Turned the base fuel screw down to the point the truck is sluggish off the line
Adjusted the boost compensator for less fuel
Boost is running 16PSI
valves have been set
all manifold/boost/exhaust leaks have been repaired
2.5" turbo back side exit exhaust
yet it STILL pulls these rediculas EGT #s...
Here is what has me slightly confused though.. retarding the timing should lower EGT, however this van its the opposite. Advanced lowers, retarding raises (900 at idle...)
Honestly I'm starting to wonder if the thermo couple is bad... or am I just blind to something?
replaced air filter/fuel filter
adjusted the timing
Put the injectors on my test bench, dismantled them, sonic cleaned and re-shimmed them all to 125bar crack pressure. spray patterns are all good no drip issues.
Turned the base fuel screw down to the point the truck is sluggish off the line
Adjusted the boost compensator for less fuel
Boost is running 16PSI
valves have been set
all manifold/boost/exhaust leaks have been repaired
2.5" turbo back side exit exhaust
yet it STILL pulls these rediculas EGT #s...
Here is what has me slightly confused though.. retarding the timing should lower EGT, however this van its the opposite. Advanced lowers, retarding raises (900 at idle...)
Honestly I'm starting to wonder if the thermo couple is bad... or am I just blind to something?
-
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:13 pm
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: 1992 Delica L300
- Location: Fort McMurray
Re: EGT level at 120kph
For the 5 speed crowd
1992 L300 5 speed low roof with roof basket
31" tires on 2" lift
Boost to 11psi
Sea level/Abbotsford elevation
K&N filter, snorkel
Pre turbo, EGR blanking plate EGT installation
100kph about 900-1000 flat and level 3100rpm (it's a 5 speed). Doesn't go to 120 easily....
280 idle after long warm up or long cool down 750rpm.
20 mpg (US) FYI
1992 L300 5 speed low roof with roof basket
31" tires on 2" lift
Boost to 11psi
Sea level/Abbotsford elevation
K&N filter, snorkel
Pre turbo, EGR blanking plate EGT installation
100kph about 900-1000 flat and level 3100rpm (it's a 5 speed). Doesn't go to 120 easily....
280 idle after long warm up or long cool down 750rpm.
20 mpg (US) FYI
- Growlerbearnz
- Posts: 2041
- Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:58 pm
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: Delica P25W
- Location: New Zealand
Re: EGT level at 120kph
1200F is ridiculous. I'd expect a *lot* of black smoke and high coolant temperatures. I'm thinking it's a broken/inaccurate gauge, but check your timing first:
You've got your thinking on timing backwards- diesel injection timing works opposite to gasoline engine spark timing. Diesel injection advance makes for cooler EGTs.
Advanced injection timing makes the diesel burn earlier and faster, meaning there's less heat left during the exhaust cycle. It also puts more stress on the crank and pistons and more heat into the block and head, so be cautious.
Retarding injection timing makes the diesel burn slower and later, meaning more heat out the exhaust. Retard the timing too much and it can still be burning inside the exhaust, which is less than awesome for power production.
I found a great article on diesel timing/tuning vs economy/power. It's a .pdf, sorry: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwN1-I ... sp=sharing
You've got your thinking on timing backwards- diesel injection timing works opposite to gasoline engine spark timing. Diesel injection advance makes for cooler EGTs.
Advanced injection timing makes the diesel burn earlier and faster, meaning there's less heat left during the exhaust cycle. It also puts more stress on the crank and pistons and more heat into the block and head, so be cautious.
Retarding injection timing makes the diesel burn slower and later, meaning more heat out the exhaust. Retard the timing too much and it can still be burning inside the exhaust, which is less than awesome for power production.
I found a great article on diesel timing/tuning vs economy/power. It's a .pdf, sorry: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwN1-I ... sp=sharing
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
-
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:14 am
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: L300
- Location: Abbotsford
Re: EGT level at 120kph
Currently the timing is set advanced, there is no smoke at all even on heavy throttle it burns completely clean and the coolant temps stay right in the same area as my van does.
guess I'll try a different gauge in it.
guess I'll try a different gauge in it.
- Growlerbearnz
- Posts: 2041
- Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 1:58 pm
- Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
- Vehicle: Delica P25W
- Location: New Zealand
Re: EGT level at 120kph
Ok, that really does sound like a broken gauge.
The gauge and sensor were bought at the same time, right? One of them hasn't been changed in the past? I recently came across an inexpensive EGT gauge that used a type-N thermocouple sensor, while most use a type-K. Fitting a type-N gauge to a type-K sensor would cause the gauge to read higher than it should.
The gauge and sensor were bought at the same time, right? One of them hasn't been changed in the past? I recently came across an inexpensive EGT gauge that used a type-N thermocouple sensor, while most use a type-K. Fitting a type-N gauge to a type-K sensor would cause the gauge to read higher than it should.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.