Hey guys.
So I have one week to assemble my 4D56 head with all the new parts I bought. Hopefully by Saturday I should begin reassembly to the block and have everything mounted by Sunday.
Although I did the timing last year myself, I would appreciate if anyone can tell me :
1) Which sprocket do I set the timing of first?
2) What home-made tool can I use to hold the sprockets in place as I dont have the proper tool?
I need to make sure I'm using the correct procedure while improvising with the tools at hand.
I have the 1994+ service manual on this engine but the details are just too vague.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance guys.
4D56 Timing. Some advice please.
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DexterH
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Growlerbearnz
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Re: 4D56 Timing. Some advice please.
The service manual should show you where the timing marks (notches on pulleys, pointers on various engine castings) are.
*Turning the engine by hand* set your crankshaft to cylinder 1 Top Dead Centre- the notch on the crankshaft timing belt pulley should line up with the triangular post on the front cover.
Turn your camshaft until the notch on its pulley lines up with the triangular mark.
Turn the injector pump pulley *clockwise only* until its marks also line up- or near enough, as it's a bit springy and wont want to rest at a point exactly lined up.
Tighten the tensioner's bolt so it's locked in the retracted position. Fit your timing belt to the crankshaft pulley. Route the left side of the belt around the tensioner, and clamp it to the tensioner so it can't move- something like a binder clip will do. Put some tension on the right side of the belt, turn the injector pump until its timing marks line up (it's ok to turn it counterclockwise a tiny bit), then slip the belt into place. Keeping a little tension on the belt, slip the belt over the crankshaft pulley.
The aim is to have the right side of the belt (crankshaft -> injector pump -> camshaft) nice and tight with all the pulleys' timing marks lined up, and the left side (tensioner side) a bit loose. If one of the pulleys doesn't line up, you're probably a tooth out- try again.
It can take a couple of tries- usually the belt will slip one tooth on the crankshaft pulley if you don't lock it in place well enough.
Once it's all in place, loosen the tensioner bolt and let it take up the slack on the left side of the belt. Tighten the tensioner bolt again to lock it in place. Now double check that all you timing marks are still lined up, and the belt is evenly tight. It's a good idea to turn the engine over *by hand* a couple of revolutions, just to make sure nothing is wrong and that the timing still lines up at the end.
Good luck!
*Turning the engine by hand* set your crankshaft to cylinder 1 Top Dead Centre- the notch on the crankshaft timing belt pulley should line up with the triangular post on the front cover.
Turn your camshaft until the notch on its pulley lines up with the triangular mark.
Turn the injector pump pulley *clockwise only* until its marks also line up- or near enough, as it's a bit springy and wont want to rest at a point exactly lined up.
Tighten the tensioner's bolt so it's locked in the retracted position. Fit your timing belt to the crankshaft pulley. Route the left side of the belt around the tensioner, and clamp it to the tensioner so it can't move- something like a binder clip will do. Put some tension on the right side of the belt, turn the injector pump until its timing marks line up (it's ok to turn it counterclockwise a tiny bit), then slip the belt into place. Keeping a little tension on the belt, slip the belt over the crankshaft pulley.
The aim is to have the right side of the belt (crankshaft -> injector pump -> camshaft) nice and tight with all the pulleys' timing marks lined up, and the left side (tensioner side) a bit loose. If one of the pulleys doesn't line up, you're probably a tooth out- try again.
It can take a couple of tries- usually the belt will slip one tooth on the crankshaft pulley if you don't lock it in place well enough.
Once it's all in place, loosen the tensioner bolt and let it take up the slack on the left side of the belt. Tighten the tensioner bolt again to lock it in place. Now double check that all you timing marks are still lined up, and the belt is evenly tight. It's a good idea to turn the engine over *by hand* a couple of revolutions, just to make sure nothing is wrong and that the timing still lines up at the end.
Good luck!
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
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DexterH
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Re: 4D56 Timing. Some advice please.
Growler it is with great appreciation I thank you for the timing procedures.
Very easy to follow. I been following Tojo's post and i gotta tell ya, his has been the most comprehensive diy timing with perfect pics that I've come across so far.
But he hadnt gotten to the actual timing part yet when I made my post asking for help. He returned yesterday to resume his project and I been like a granny tuned in to her favorite primetime soap! Lol
But I will be using your notes as well my friend.
I figured a way to keep the belt from slipping a tooth/teeth while timing. Yes the little slip off the mark from the fuel pump sprocket was tricky too.
Tie straps! Saw a video on yt and the guy used tie straps to keep his belt in place as he went around. Genius!
It was easy for me last year as the engine was on my work table, but being in the van its gonna be a bit tricky.
Thanks GrowlerB
Very easy to follow. I been following Tojo's post and i gotta tell ya, his has been the most comprehensive diy timing with perfect pics that I've come across so far.
But he hadnt gotten to the actual timing part yet when I made my post asking for help. He returned yesterday to resume his project and I been like a granny tuned in to her favorite primetime soap! Lol
But I will be using your notes as well my friend.
I figured a way to keep the belt from slipping a tooth/teeth while timing. Yes the little slip off the mark from the fuel pump sprocket was tricky too.
Tie straps! Saw a video on yt and the guy used tie straps to keep his belt in place as he went around. Genius!
It was easy for me last year as the engine was on my work table, but being in the van its gonna be a bit tricky.
Thanks GrowlerB