Rear Wheel Bearing

[yojimbo]

Right so the Russek manual bleats on about needing a big slide hammer to pull the halfshaft, and that there is a nut holding on the bearing, which might come off with pliers, but need s a lot of torque to put back on with the special tool, and makes no mention of the torque involved anyway. Whats the crack with this? Me and my wrenching buddy can generally do a lot of stuff in the backyard with a big enough hammer, but has anyone done this and can shed some light before we tackle it next weekend? This weekend is front bearing fun. So naturally the skies opened and it hailed.

[Growlerbearnz]

When I swapped the rear axle for an LSD one, I found the halfshafts came out fairly easily. Knocking the wheel studs out before pulling the halfshaft probably helped.

The 1988 LSD axle had the bearings retained by nuts, but on my 1991 non-LSD axle they were retained by pressed on retainers. I didn't actually replace the bearings on my 1991 halfshafts, but apparently you have to grind the retainers off with an angle grinder, and when replacing with new ones you need to heat the retainer, chill the halfshaft, and use a sodding big press. (I think that's a technical term.)

On the 1988 halfshafts the nut came undone easily using a big adjustable spanner, but since I didn't have a puller long enough I cut the bearing off with an angle grinder. I wasn't brave enough to try installing the new bearing myself- I considered heating it, chilling the halfshaft, and installing it with a long piece of steel pipe, but in the end I just took all the bits to a workshop and they did it. Cost $20 and a dozen beer.

HTH

[yojimbo]

Hi Growler, yeah that does help, it means its a pig of a job either way. Last test time they moaned about there being some play, I'm tempted to let them change them if they aren't happy with their condition. Its a shame really they arent as user serviceable as the fronts. But maybe they are if they are nutted on. We found that we didnt need a press to fit the front as the old race worked as a good drift to spread the load and not damage the race, but the old front are tapered, and I dont think the rear is, maybe I should go out and look at what I bought! That might give me some ideas about drifting it on. The fronts werent so tight you needed to chill/heat to fit it, as it's not that tight an interference fit, neither front, nor rear are held on by their own clamping force it seems.

[Growlerbearnz]

The rear bearings are ball bearings, but since the wheel is also supported by the length of the halfshaft I'd be alarmed if there was noticeable play.

[yojimbo]

Yeah, I was actually thinking along the same lines, it might be that the play that is meant to be there is being mistaken for bearing. Kind of, testers pessimism, having found bearing play at the front, he attributes any at the rear to the same. I think I'll finish swapping the fronts out and get it tested as is and just see what they say.