Alternator replacement??

[alti2d]

I've been researching replacing the alternator on my L300 and just want to check and see if there is anything else I should look at before pulling it (and trying to find a rebuild shop in Fort Mac :( ).

The other day, the lights dimmed, the heater fan slowed and the wipers slowed as well. The squealing fan belt on startup (which I've been meaning to get to for about 6 months now) also stopped squealing. So I brought it into work today (inside, thank god), and checked with the multi meter. Battery is 11.2V off. 11.55v running at idle, and 11.55V running at 3000RPM. Battery leads are tight, need to double check the grounding, but there were no issues starting the van. It starts strong and keeps going. I gather its not healthy for the battery to run it around without the alternator working properly, so I've been restricting my driving.

So... is there anything else I need to check or can I just assume the alternator is kaput?

While waiting to see if there are any more ideas, my van is thawing out, and I'm going to go down and try to check the alternator voltage output at its positive terminal.

From what I've read, the vacuum lines hooked up to the alternator need to come off but I'm trying to sort out how they connect and disconnect, do I need to drop the oil out as well? Any help or suggestions are appreciated thanks! :)

[alti2d]

Soo...

It appears that the positive terminal wire at the mount of the alternator was corroded off. Seems like an easy fix, BUT in the process of trying to undo the nut from the stud, the stud sheared off deep inside the alternator...

:(

I think that I need to pull the alternator now and have that fixed (or take the opportunity to upgrade the alternator).

sigh....

[yojimbo]

Ouch. You dont need to drain the oil, but it will drip a bit. If its due an oil change anyway, taking the filter off will give you a lot more room, and makes it a lot easier to reach up and release the vac lines.

Also, when you refit it, tighten it up, run it, and leave it over night, and tighten again, if you are fitting new belts.

[Rattlenbang]

Soo...

It appears that the positive terminal wire at the mount of the alternator was corroded off. Seems like an easy fix, BUT in the process of trying to undo the nut from the stud, the stud sheared off deep inside the alternator...

:(

I think that I need to pull the alternator now and have that fixed (or take the opportunity to upgrade the alternator).

sigh....

Alternators are an easy fix; if you got the skill to pull it, you probably have the skill to fix it. If you give a shout to Macs auto electric, maybe send him a pic of the broken component, he'll be able to send you a new one. Then you just solder it in. Dead alternator can be brushes, diode pack, or regulator. Not very often do the windings go. But all the above parts are pretty easy to replace.

[alti2d]

Tanks all for the tips.

Replaced the alternator today (horray to Coombs Country for a quick shipment (your core is on the way Monday, I promise)). Opted for replacement to get back on the road sooner, less hassle and a chance to upgrade the amp output.

But... rolled Mitch out and left him running outside and see if there's any oil dripping going on, and there is. In the course of looking up instructionns, someone had discussed something about o-rings with the oil/vacuum pump/hoses and such, I was expecting to see some with the disassembly, but didn't. Now I'm wondering if there were supposed to be some there and they weren't. Starting some research now, but feel free to provide me with insight. (edit: the vacuum pump wasn't attached/detached, the refurb came with it so I just pulled the alt, belts, electrical plugs and 4 hoses off the alt before replacement).

Until I get a better look, I'm not driving Mitch around until the leaky oil issue is resolved. Thanks again all for tips and this site for guidance!

[Rattlenbang]

There is an O-ring that sits between alternator and vacuum pump. It actually sits in the recess of the bearing in the alternator, and the pump is bolted over it. It's a 16X2mm O-ring. Is it possible the O-ring was missing? Did you make sure the banjo bolt washers were reinstalled on the oil feed line? Best to take a good look with a light and determine exactly where the leak is coming from. If it's coming from between the alternator and pump or out the alternator itself, that O-ring is missing.

[alti2d]

Thanks for the clarification of the O-ring. I haven't yet had a chance to look at it, and haven't been running the van. (I am lucky to have a company van replacement for the moment (though not nearly as cool, it's a pontiac, but it's still wheels)).

The refurbed alternator came complete with pump, so, though not impossible, not likely that that o-ring is the problem.

On the other hand, I know I only had one banjo bolt washer on there, so that's where I'm gonna check first. I should know better, but that oversight just slipped by. Fortunately, it's an easy fix and easy access. :) Thanks again

[Rattlenbang]

Yeah, with only one washer, it'll puke oil. easy fix.