Turbo 101 Help

[dort]

Hello all,

So due to a series of unfortunate events, I blew a gasket and my turbo seized up. I brought it into Pro Active, who were the only shop I could find in Calgary who would touch it, and they informed me that it would cost $800 for a new turbo plus 6 hours labour to replace it. Thing is, there are turbos on the forum for $650. My questions are:
1) Is there likely to be a huge difference in turbo quality?
2) What is the likelihood that a delica newbie could replace (or possibly rebuild) a turbo himself? I don't have much experience with engines, but I'm pretty decent with tools.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[White Mule]

Use the search on turbo rebuild.

Yes you can DIY if you have the patience and like you said "decent with tools".

Once you find the thread you are half way there.

"Think small hands", is a phrase you will remember!

Best luck

[Firesong]

Hi
I've swapped my turbo around 2x already.
While I as in there I redid the intake / exhaust manifold gasket too.
Im not a mechanic , the second time took less time than the first :)
Think small hands (as was mentioned) and have the parts a head of time.

FS

[robinimpey]

I blew an oil seal in my turbo a few months ago and bought a new turbo from Max Overdrive. $680.00 + shipping for a Garrett turbo. I replaced it myself and didn't find it too difficult, but it is a little tight working around the turbo. Keep things clean and make sure everything seals well and you should be okay. I don't think I spent 6 hours all together and this project and it is the first turbo work I've done. I did take it down to the muffler shop to get the tail pipe re-installed.

Good Luck!

[redmond]

I have a 91 and am replacing mine. I just picked up the Garrett from Maximum Overdrive and the wastegate actuator rod-end won't fit on the new gate post. Did anyone else run into this? Also, the gate on the new Garrett has a very large swing (open to close is a large travel) but the old one was a very small swing (open to close) - is this going to be an issue?
Thanks.

[jessef]

rebuilding a turbo takes skill and proper calibration/balancing machinery

replacing a turbo takes a few hours and small hands

it's not a fun job but depending on your wallet it's either a DIY or pay a shop and save the time

[redmond]

Nope - not going to rebuild; sounds a bit too exciting for me to be testing out a diy rebuild!
I've taken the old one off - now putting the new one on. However, the old actuator won't work with the new turbo: actuator rod-end-hole is too small for the new (larger) post for the waste gate.
Just wondering if others bought this same new turbo and ran into the same problem - and what they did.

[legionnair]

Remember with a new turbo pre-oil it and once installed allow engine to idle for 5mn before putting a load on the engine.

Dustin

[robinimpey]

Hey Redmond,

I had the same issue. I drilled the hole a little larger and had to tweak the arm a bit to make everything line up. Everything worked fine.

Robin

[redmond]

Good to know - before I started drilling I wanted to see if I was on the right track; seems like there's not much thickness on the old arm to drill out to size but I'll work on that and perhaps on the gate pin too. Was the gate travel that different from the old to new? New one has a way bigger travel (open to close). I'm concerned that the actuator will be able to open enough.
And thanks Dustin - will do.
Patrick

[jessef]

Patrick, if you're not certain when setting up the wastegate, I'd recommend to hook up a boost gauge to ensure you're running at optimal boost (8-9 psi stock / 9-12 psi modification). Anything more than 12 psi can cause internal heat issues.

Even borrowing a boost gauge from someone and using 1/4" windshield wiper hose (same size as vacuum line but at a fraction of the cost) would be an alternative if you can source it.

Cheers
Jesse

[Deli of the North]

hey Redmond- I too have replaced mine with the garret from max odrive- same issue with the wastegate rod- i just bent it to fit. I don't recall how many psi I was making at first- I think around 8-9, but installed a boost controller from gofastbits, and now am running 12 psi (Crazy difference with this gadget- instant turbo response, way more power than original) I also installed boost and egt temp gauges 'Woulda shoulda done that first.." at the same time

[robinimpey]

Like Jesse metioned above get a gauge and make sure you are running the correct amount of boost. Too little and you'll be short on power, too much and you could be cooking your engine.

Robin

[redmond]

Thanks everyone - I went to Maximum today (they were great) and he gave me an actuator but I think it will be too short and so I may still drill out the old one and make it fit.
I do have a gauge and the old boost ran around 8psi (0.5 on my gauge - I think that's kg-force/cm2).
And a side note - I was following the steps for removal in one of the download manuals and right off the top was drain coolant... so I did without thinking. Got towards the end and it said to remove water pipe B and water pipe A. Then I realized there are no pipes - it isn't water cooled. Oh well, we'll call it a coolant flush. Appreciating the help all.
Patrick