water pump problem.
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- Vehicle: L300 1994
- Location: Kongsberg, Norway
water pump problem.
I am trying to change the water pump on my l300 engine 4d5. I have taken out generator, servo, thermostat and the top plastic cover. But i am having problems with the bottom one, I have tried to take out the crankshaft pulley, lined it up and unscrewed the middle bolt but it is still stuck. Any suggestions?
- jessef
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- Location: Vancouver, BC
Re: water pump problem.
why are you removing the crankshaft pulley if you're just replacing your water pump?
Regardless. If it's on tight, a puller or soft rubber mallet.
Regardless. If it's on tight, a puller or soft rubber mallet.
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- Vehicle: 1994 Delica L300 - Jasper
- Location: Bucks, UK
Re: water pump problem.
It's common practise, and sensible, to replace belts when doing the water pump, and vice versa, on belt driven engines, just because both are a bit of a faff to get to, and then its done. It also means you have more room to work, and you dont get horrible old coolant all over the belts, it can all be cleaned up nicely and reassembled with nice shiny new parts.
It can be a bit stuck on, but as advised, tapping it around a bit usually frees it off. You should also replace the woodruff key, and use a new bolt when replacing it, and I would advise threadlocking the new bolt. There is an inspection hatch behind the flywheel that a friend can help lock the engine with when tightening it up.
It can be a bit stuck on, but as advised, tapping it around a bit usually frees it off. You should also replace the woodruff key, and use a new bolt when replacing it, and I would advise threadlocking the new bolt. There is an inspection hatch behind the flywheel that a friend can help lock the engine with when tightening it up.
1994 L300 Jasper
1986 Scimitar 1.8Ti
1986 Scimitar 1.8Ti
- Growlerbearnz
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Re: water pump problem.
The phrase "Soft rubber mallet my arse" comes to mind. In my experience the crankshaft pulley can be an absolute cow to remove without a puller, and removing it will demand some kind of blood sacrifice, even with a puller.
You can make a puller very quickly- take a piece of thick, flat steel bar, drill two holes that line up with the two threaded holes on the crankshaft pulley. Find some M10 bolts and bolt the bar to the front of the pulley so the crankshaft bolt presses against the bar.
Now lock the transmission in place and, using an open spanner, wind the crankshaft bolt out. As it winds out it will pull the crankshaft pulley with it.
While it's off: replace the lower crankshaft seal, and preferably the balance shaft seals too.
You can make a puller very quickly- take a piece of thick, flat steel bar, drill two holes that line up with the two threaded holes on the crankshaft pulley. Find some M10 bolts and bolt the bar to the front of the pulley so the crankshaft bolt presses against the bar.
Now lock the transmission in place and, using an open spanner, wind the crankshaft bolt out. As it winds out it will pull the crankshaft pulley with it.
While it's off: replace the lower crankshaft seal, and preferably the balance shaft seals too.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
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Re: water pump problem.
Thanks for all the help. I had to take out the pulley to reach all of the bolts for the pump for some reason, it is covered by a plastic cover held in place by the pulley. For future reference tapping on the pulley for about 2 hours and alot of wd-40 gets it loose.
- Growlerbearnz
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Re: water pump problem.
Great news. Thanks for the update!
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.