Fuel tank vent valve

[Diver]

Well to test an electrical component it would need to be disconnected from the wiring, but the 'click' test is sufficient. If there's no click it sounds like it's not working.
It's a fiddle to remove, but most important thing is to be positive that the whole area is completely clean (spray cleaner and blow with air line or similar), so nothing drops into the pump. Once removed you can bench test it with power to make certain it's not working. IIRC the plunger, spring and 'o' ring pull out and it MAY be possible to get it working again if they're seized, but a replacement is always best. If there's rust it's a sign that moisture has entered the pump (not good obviously).

[negativentropy]

According to the Delica shop manual the solenoids function can be tested while installed by measuring the resistance across the device while it is energized.

"INSPECTION OF FUEL CUT SOLENOID VALVE COIL RESISTANCE

Measure the resistance between the fuel cut solenoid valve terminal and ignition pump body.

Standard value: 8 -10 ohms"

In any case im going to remove and inspect the thing today - hopefully its just seized, in which case Ill try to get it working again using lubricants. And yeah, its going to be a hell of a fiddle fukc getting the thing out of there...

[negativentropy]

Took another crack at it today. I was not able to remove the solenoid from the injection pump. I dont see how its even physically possible without removing the whole pump from the engine compartment. There isnt nearly enough room to get a wrench of that size in there? Has anyone removed the solenoid with the whole pump in place?

I was able to remove the electrical connection from the solenoid. This made it a lot easier to test for the 'clicking' - which I was able to hear this time. I thought perhaps the solenoid was working again today due to the warm weather we had. But it made no difference - the van still wont start.

Tomorrow I will crack open the injector lines and see if they're full of air. After that its probably going to go to a mechanic and I dread what its going to cost...

[Diver]

If you check the solenoid while it's connected and energised it would be no different than measuring the resistance across the battery terminals so won't give you any useful information. Maybe the manual is unclear in this respect.
If you can hear it clicking, I wouldn't bother trying to get it out at the moment. Try the funnel method I mentioned above, it's quick, easy and free. I feel very sure it will give you answers.

[negativentropy]

Well today I opened the fuel lines at the injectors and had a friend turn over the engine. Little squirts of fuel came out - I seem to recall from when I had to bleed the fuel system of a tractor that when you open up the fuel line at the injectors and crank the engine A LOT of fuel comes out, and quite vigorously. At any rate, I've exhausted the possibilities of what I'm comfortable doing to the vehicle. Its going to get towed to Mardy on Wednesday - probably for a injection pump rebuild?

Thanks for all your suggestions and efforts everyone - dont be offended if I didnt try some of the things you suggested. There was probably a reason why I didnt.

[rezdiver]

take a step back and go over what you did in the first place before it went bad before you get a new injection pump.

are your glow plugs working?
did you get the correct glow plugs?
Did you test each one before installing them?
you said you changed them at the same time, are you sure you reconnected the wire to the plugs. you also mentioned that "Exhaust is white and there is a fair bit of it." this is a sign of unburnt fuel.

you mentioned you are getting fuel out of the lines when you cracked them so you should be ok there, possible that your pump may be bad and not making pressure or the solenoid is not lifting all the way, but work on the simple things first. you are still getting fuel and it should at least stumble and try to start.

you also mentioned "So I opened the fuel cap, and again I heard the sound of air rushing into the tank. I tried to start the van again and it started instantly, the best start I can remember this winter."

reprime the filter and try starting again with the gas cap off and leave it off if it starts. once and if its started have a look and see if you see any bubbles in the fuel lines from the filter. with the engine running crack each of the injector lines one at a time till fuel flows and button it back up and do it again for the rest of the lines.
also if it starts get a buddy to close the fuel cap while you watch the fuel lines and see if any bubbles form.

but first check to make sure your glow plugs are getting power and that they are the correct ones and have not burned out.

also those pumps have a cold start advance correct? is it still hooked up?

[nxski]

I had my glow plugs replaced and was given ones with the wrong resistance which resulted in the van not starting and lots of smoke coming out. I ran a jumper cable directly from the battery to the bus bar and it started no problem. This has been common with the 6V system (if that's what you have).

[Diver]

For me, I just can't get away from the fact that your fuel filter is constantly full of air. If you're sure that's the case, then i'm sure that's your problem.

[negativentropy]

Regarding the glow plugs: I replaced them at the beginning of the winter because one wasnt working - and the effects of that are really obvious: a difficult start with lots of black smoke. You could feel one cylinder misfiring. Afterwards, perfectly smooth idle even in cold temps. Yesterday it was over 10 degrees celcius so even if all of the glow plugs were burnt out (highly unlikely) the van would probably still have started. For the record the glow plugs are NGK 55s. I've started this van in some pretty cold temperatures this winter, so I dont think the glow plugs are the problem. The white smoke is common for me on a cold start - but there is usually a lot more of it. I think in this case its simply a sign of very little fuel hitting the injectors. An injector pump creates huge pressures, and the amount of fuel I saw coming yesterday out was not what I would expect...

This problem has been getting progressively worse as the winter went on. At first I just had to turn over the engine a few times to get her going. Then I had to open the vent and pump out some air. Now that doesnt work. Something is getting worse. All the things you guys have mentioned used to work. Now they dont. I dont run my van very often (twice a month), so Im sure that contributes to the problem.

In any case I've run out of time to troubleshoot, and I have very limited facilities to deal with anything major. So I'm throwing in the towel. I'd rather just have it looked at by a pro, cough up some money and have peace of mind that thing will start when I need it too...

[Diver]

Fair enough. Well please let us know what the problem was after you've had it fixed?

[negativentropy]

I will definitely let you know what Mardy finds. We might as well make some friendly bets.

Im guessing a primary problem in the injection pump - the reason why it wont start at all.
As an aside probably a blocked fuel tank vent and some small leaks in fuel line hoses - which caused the poor starting.

[jessef]

IP my bet

Any reason why you didn't put a $20 inline pump and simply drive it to the shop?

[negativentropy]

I guess because I think there is a very low chance of that actually making any difference - and if I try it and it doesnt work I'll have lost my time window to have this thing shipped, repaired and back here in time to move out of my apartment. If I dont move out in time I'll have to pay more rent which will end up costing me more than if I just bite the bullet and ship the bloody thing etc etc.

Anyway its complicated, and I guess there are worse times it could have broken down (when I was moving across Canada with it), but not by much.

I'm aware that a more mechanically inclined person with some more resources could probably get it going and limp it to Vancouver. But I'm not that person nor do I have the time right now...

I'll keep ya posted.

[busrida]

Good luck to ya.

I figured I'd check here after I didn't get the call. Was talking it over with the wife and I was betting on no fuel in the filter from it sitting. Sounds like a good amount of air is getting into the system somehow. Bet you fog light bulb that there is a seal gone on your pump. I went to replace my bulb the other day and BOTH were out... why'd i trade that extra, still haven't gotten to installing my parts so you can give me a hand when you get here

Maybe I have to check my tank too, been sucking a bit of air too below half a tank.

[negativentropy]

OK so here it is:

Fully rebuilt IP. Swollen seals, was probably a source of air in the system.
New glow plug relay (and new wiring and bus bar) - was not functioning properly, the faulty relay was ultimately why the engine wouldnt start - the glow plugs were fine.
New alternator (was producing 10v only) and new battery (this was under warranty, battery was not charging properly, probably a result from never being charged fully due to weak alternator)
New fuel filter. The new one I installed in November had a different seal system and was probably another source of air...

At any rate the van runs great - the rebuilt IP is noticeable, a better throttle response, no more occasional power lag. The engine also sounds different, not sure how, maybe its the new alternator...

Take what you will from this whole story. I know I learned a few things...