Yesterday I had to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting a car that stopped for no reason in the middle of an intersection. Wow, does the nose dive on these
No problems until this morning. While I'm backing out of the driveway, I turn the wheel and there is a loud bang from the front suspension. I drove around the block and all seemed peachy. I head to the store and as I'm backing out of the parking spot another loud bang. It was loud enough that it turned heads. I head back home, jack it up, look for broken or loose bits, grab and shake everything I can lay my hands on, and everything seems okay. I have since backed up a couple of times and no noise.
I'm not one to bury my head and cry fixed! I know it will rear it's ugly head again at the most inconvenient time.
Does anyone have an idea of what I should start checking?
Thanks!
javabob
Loud Front Suspension Noise
- javabob
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Loud Front Suspension Noise
A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- Growlerbearnz
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Loud Front Suspension Noise
I'm surprised this isn't in the Technical Reference Library already. Maybe it will be soon.
The classic L300 Clunk is most commonly caused by two things:
-Subframe nuts. The front suspension wishbones are mounted to two subframes. The 17mm nuts holding the rear subframe to the chassis rail often come loose. They should be ridiculously tight. Also check the front subframe bolts while you're there, though they're usually ok.
-Anti-roll bar bushes.
Bad: Good: Other things to check while you're under there are:
-Top and bottom ball joints
-Steering tie rod end joints
-driveshaft play (pull and push on the CV joint, it shouldn't move in and out very far)
-Shock absorber lower bushing
-Lower and upper wishbone bushes
-Brake caliper mounting bolts
-undertray/splash guard mounting bolts.
The classic L300 Clunk is most commonly caused by two things:
-Subframe nuts. The front suspension wishbones are mounted to two subframes. The 17mm nuts holding the rear subframe to the chassis rail often come loose. They should be ridiculously tight. Also check the front subframe bolts while you're there, though they're usually ok.
-Anti-roll bar bushes.
Bad: Good: Other things to check while you're under there are:
-Top and bottom ball joints
-Steering tie rod end joints
-driveshaft play (pull and push on the CV joint, it shouldn't move in and out very far)
-Shock absorber lower bushing
-Lower and upper wishbone bushes
-Brake caliper mounting bolts
-undertray/splash guard mounting bolts.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
- Growlerbearnz
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Loud Front Suspension Noise
Oh it does indeed, but I think it feels worse than it is because of where you're sitting. Still, it's a good reminder to increase your following distance- your legs *are* the crumple zone.javabob wrote:Wow, does the nose dive on these
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
- javabob
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- Vehicle: 1991 Exceed (P35W)
- Location: Minneapolis
Loud Front Suspension Noise
Thank you for the list Growler! It just so happens I'm playing hookey tomorrow, so I can work through the list,
I'm usually pretty good about keeping my distance, and I had plenty, until I saw a Morgan 3 at the intersection and she stopped for no reason.
That'll teach me to think people are predictable and shiny things don't hijack my eyes. Lesson learned.
I'm usually pretty good about keeping my distance, and I had plenty, until I saw a Morgan 3 at the intersection and she stopped for no reason.
That'll teach me to think people are predictable and shiny things don't hijack my eyes. Lesson learned.
A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.