Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I was going to change my tires this afternoon but end up not able to take the rim off. I kicked the tire and bang them a with a hammer but no luck.
does anyone has any suggestion ?
Thanks
Claude

claude wrote:I was going to change my tires this afternoon but end up not able to take the rim off. I kicked the tire and bang them a with a hammer but no luck.
does anyone has any suggestion ?

Undo the lug nuts first?

Put two or three lug nuts back on. Don't tighten them all the way. Drop the jack; the rim should pop loose under load.

or "short" non-agressive drive around the block with all lug nuts loose but still on

or an aggressive smack on the tire with a sledge hammer

RichD wrote:

claude wrote:I was going to change my tires this afternoon but end up not able to take the rim off. I kicked the tire and bang them a with a hammer but no luck.
does anyone has any suggestion ?

Undo the lug nuts first?

Put two or three lug nuts back on. Don't tighten them all the way. Drop the jack; the rim should pop loose under load.

thanks , I will try all of them tomorrow if the temperature is no too cold . Today it was -9 an right know it already -14

heat the rim with a torch if you have one...usually they corrode on the hub or the mounting surface.

Either paint or no-bind after you get them off.

I would be careful with a sledge as you might damage the rim....

thedjjack wrote:heat the rim with a torch if you have one...usually they corrode on the hub or the mounting surface.

Either paint or no-bind after you get them off.

I would be careful with a sledge as you might damage the rim....

Thanks I will try this one too. As for the sledge it is not on my list

Claude: this is a simple one. Do as RichD suggested and then shake the van sideways.

Faut q'ca brasse!

I bought a rubber mallet for this purpose and beat the bajeebus out if the rims, but load plus loose lug nuts should work fine. I often grease the contact points to prevent the rim sticking like this.

RichD wrote:Faut q'ca brasse!

Bien sure On va le faire

Any vehicle that has a dissimilar metal rim in comparison to the drive train will have difficulties with the rims getting "stuck" to the drive train. If anyone suggest loosening lug nuts and going for a short drive, loosening and dropping the jack and that sort do not understand how a rim really works in supporting the vehicles weight. The lug nuts only retain the rim onto the axle or hub, the center opening of the rim is coincidentally the exact size for the axle or hub. Reason being the rim supports the majority of the load on this, the lugs/lug nuts only keep the wheel tightly fixed to the hub/axle. It was mentioned to add heat via a torch to the rim, once again this is not a wise decision, it was mentioned to loosen and shake the vehicle or to use a 2x4 and a sledge these are the 2 best solutions. Once the rim is off paint is not the best but go and get some copper or silver anti-seize, its a paste that you put onto brake components to lubricate and stop corrosion, been using it for 20+years and never a problem. PS the sledge trick works best from outside in and rotate the tire every couple hits so that it will work loose if required.


Kelly

a sledge hammer and 2x4 is the only safe solution. You wack the rubber, not the rim.

all the rest have the possibility to cause damage

92pajero wrote:Any vehicle that has a dissimilar metal rim in comparison to the drive train will have difficulties with the rims getting "stuck" to the drive train. If anyone suggest loosening lug nuts and going for a short drive, loosening and dropping the jack and that sort do not understand how a rim really works in supporting the vehicles weight. The lug nuts only retain the rim onto the axle or hub, the center opening of the rim is coincidentally the exact size for the axle or hub. Reason being the rim supports the majority of the load on this, the lugs/lug nuts only keep the wheel tightly fixed to the hub/axle. It was mentioned to add heat via a torch to the rim, once again this is not a wise decision, it was mentioned to loosen and shake the vehicle or to use a 2x4 and a sledge these are the 2 best solutions. Once the rim is off paint is not the best but go and get some copper or silver anti-seize, its a paste that you put onto brake components to lubricate and stop corrosion, been using it for 20+years and never a problem. PS the sledge trick works best from outside in and rotate the tire every couple hits so that it will work loose if required.


Kelly

X2 on the rubber mallet and 2x4 trick.

But FYI, OP - if you have OEM Mitsubishi rims, then the above info is true. Such wheels are called "hub-centric" since the centre bore of the wheel matches the wheel's hub diameter perfectly.

However, some aftermarket wheels have larger-than-hub centre bores, and rely on the lugs to do the heavy work of centring the rim and bearing the weight. They are called "lug-centric". And doing what RichD suggested by loosening the lugs nuts and dropping the vehicle will indeed have the desired effect of popping the wheel free.

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