Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Just bought a 1995 Super Exceed 2800 with very low mileage. Happy with the purchase, but after the van has sat for 6-10 hours it starts very rough. It takes awhile to fire up 3-6 seconds of turning it over and then it idles like it wants to stall (often does). It seems like the engine is missing. After it warms up it runs fine, but I worry that when the weather turns colder the problem will become worse. Anyone else have this issue and know a possible solution.

mike_mitro@hotmail.com wrote:Just bought a 1995 Super Exceed 2800 with very low mileage. Happy with the purchase, but after the van has sat for 6-10 hours it starts very rough. It takes awhile to fire up 3-6 seconds of turning it over and then it idles like it wants to stall (often does). It seems like the engine is missing. After it warms up it runs fine, but I worry that when the weather turns colder the problem will become worse. Anyone else have this issue and know a possible solution.

You may follow this starting method.

Here's the procedure for starting first in the morning.
1. Turn the ignition on ( dash light on )_ you hear first click right away.
2. You need to wait around 7seconds ( in this weather ) till you hear second click.
3. When you hear the second click, you have to crank engine over at the same time as it is the optimum temp of engine.
You have to match timing.

Try again tomorrow morning.
If not working properly, check your glow plug condition first.
If your glow plug are fine, you may have a IP main seal issue.

Steven

Sounds like you have a couple glow plugs not working. I would be surprised if it is not given what your saying.
Rudy

FalcoColumbarius wrote:I may add to the previous posting by RSI ~ have you checked your battery(ies)? If you still have the Japanese battery(ies) then I would recommend changing them. Chances are they are old and not up to the original amperage

In my L300 with an "in parallel" battery set up I deliver 1400+ amperes (CCA @ -30C) to the glow plugs on my 4D56T(urbo), 2.5 litre, SOHC Mitsubishi Astron engine. Three seconds between clicks. Four seconds on a particularly cold day.Falco.

Good point for battery check.
X2.

Falco has a 1992 L300, so it has a 'Super Quick Glow Plug System' with 6.2V glow plugs.
3-4 seconds interval between those 2 clicks is absolutely normal and system is very healthy.

Steven

Or air getting into your system - the injection pump main seal has known to be a culprit if you haven't had it replaced.

Another thing to check in the morning after it has been sitting is pump the top of the fuel filter. If it is hard thats good, if not there is air in the fuel system.

I have similar symptoms and pumping the top of the fuel filter helps a lot before a cold start.

you need to tune it up pre set. the injector or rebuild it the injector.
most of this delica come from japan, injector need to be rebuild.
i would say 100%.of it.thru my experience with all my delica L400 coming from japan.
second , check your glow plug if all working.
then replace the injection pump seal of your injection pump.
almost all of this pump has a worn injection pump seal.
there is no easier way to tune this L400, all need to be service.
no matter how good or new your glow you have if you dont tune your delica.
you will have same problem.
hope this help
cheers;
Mardy

Change the glow plugs and still no luck. The start ups remain really rough and sometimes after driving for about 10 km and stopping at a light the van stalls. Any ideas.

mike_mitro@hotmail.com wrote:Change the glow plugs and still no luck. The start ups remain really rough and sometimes after driving for about 10 km and stopping at a light the van stalls. Any ideas.

I think you have a IP main seal/o rings replacement issue.

Steven

Here you go Mike. Different person, same problem last week.

http://www.delica.ca/forum/injection-pu ... 11988.html

You can disregard the batteries talk because once you start the L400, the batteries are not important (for you purpose of diagnosing your issue) as your L400 starts fine but then stalls later.

Check the simple things first.

Unlikely, but an easy check - Electrical - glow plugs.

With a voltmeter touching the bus bar (connecting the glow plugs), have someone turn the key to the 'on' position and it should give you a reading or 12V+ on the 'clicks'. If you don't get a reading, your glow plugs are not receiving the power needed to warm up the chamber which can lead to poor starts in cold weather.

What you are most likely seeing is this:

If it warms up but dies soon after, that is an indicator you have an air pocket in the fuel lines.

1st question. Are you able to push the hand pump on top of the fuel filter in the morning before you start? The first place to check is at the fuel filter housing like Kuan mentioned. If it's soft and you can get out a few pumps, then you have air seeping in overnight possibly at the fuel line inlets on the fuel filter housing. Check the hoses and clamps. If it's hard to pump, then move forward to the injection pump.

Under the fuel filter, there is a drain plug. Ensure that it is snug. The o-ring may be hard and allowing air in.

In addition, the main rubber seal on the top of the fuel filter may be old/hard and allowing air in as well.

You can check these two by removing the fuel filter, in which case a replacement (if not done already) is warranted as they are inexpensive.

If your filter is good and seating properly on the filter housing and drain plug, then the next culprit is the injection pump main shaft seal. The entire injection pump has to be removed and is a delicate process which should be left to a knowledgeable mechanic. Labour is approx. 4 hours and a $20 part. Ignore the comments about rebuilding the entire injection pump and replacing all the seals. Don't let the dealers scare you with high costs or rebuilds and such. This statement you may read is moot as Mitsubishi began using viton (synthetic rubber) seals in the L400's which last a loooong time and are happy with different fuel/oils such as wvo/svo/standard diesel. The main shaft seal is the only one that's not viton and does get hard over time allowing air to seep in causing your symptoms.

If you purchased your L400 from a local dealer recently, they should honor the work. If not, then there are a few L400-happy shops that do this work. A simple phone call with a quote "how much to install a new injection pump seal" - that's it.. no more.. no less and ask for a price. If they cannot give you a cost on that simple job, disregard them and go to the next shop.

You will find the best service shops for Delica's do not frequent this forum as word of mouth brings all the business they can handle.

Don't forget to replace 2 O-rings if you have IP main seal replaced, otherwise you have a problem sooner or later.
1 main oil seal and 2 O-rings cost you more than $40.
You can see part numbers in attached pics.

Steven

Rising Sun Auto Import wrote:Don't forget to replace 2 O-rings if you have IP main seal replaced, otherwise you have a problem sooner or later.
1 main oil seal and 2 O-rings cost you more than $40.
You can see part numbers in attached pics.

Steven

This is a joke, right? You were caught pushing your parts on the other thread a few days ago and now again. You akin to Green1 who just .. can't... stop ... must .. sell.. my .... parts.... any..way..I..can....

jfarsang wrote:

Rising Sun Auto Import wrote:Don't forget to replace 2 O-rings if you have IP main seal replaced, otherwise you have a problem sooner or later.
1 main oil seal and 2 O-rings cost you more than $40.
You can see part numbers in attached pics.

Steven

This is a joke, right? You were caught pushing your parts on the other thread a few days ago and now again. You akin to Green1 who just .. can't... stop ... must .. sell.. my .... parts.... any..way..I..can....

If you miss replacing 07338B and 07338C ( in the diagram ), you have oil/fuel mix problem again.
Just same as we replace gasket when we replace a water pump.
Most members like to see pics except you.
All dealers have them in stock, right? This is not a sales ad.
Members need to know the fact.

Steven

I did not see it as an ad at all. I appreciate the knowledge and the pictures. Thanks! It is always nicer to know what we need to do to keep these vehicles running and do it right the first time while we are in there. I hate doing the job twice because I didn't know that I should have replaced another simple piece while I had it apart already.
Is there a legitimate problem with the above posts from Rising Sun Auto Import?

Rising Sun Auto Import wrote:If you miss replacing 07338B and 07338C ( in the diagram ), you have oil/fuel mix problem again.

Members need to know the fact.

There is a distinct difference between what 'can' be replaced and what 'needs' to be replaced.

Leading the readers to believe that unless those two parts are replaced you will have and oil/fuel mix problem again is not the best way to sell something.

The two o-ring viton seals the dealer subtly mentioned above and in the other thread where the dealer recommended to rebuild the entire injection pump(not even 2 days old - cross posting) is not related to the main shaft seal issue which is requires a simple replacement solution. If the two o-rings would be rubber and not viton, then the additional replacement can be warranted. But it is definitely not a factual necessity that will lead to problems.