Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Ok - I know this it totally straight forward, but I couldn't find a howto when I used the Search function, so I thought I'd post one for the next guy to be able to find....

Replacing front low beam bulbs is real easy like. There are three screws and three bolts you need to remove in order to get the entire headlight casing out. There's one screw on the side just below the front marker light, and there are two more screws to remove in the front along the bottom edge of the plastic trim piece directly below the headlight.

Remove these screws and small side marker and plastic trim piece that runs along the front, under the headlight should be loose enough to move to the side.

Next there are two 10mm bolts to remove on the side of the headlight casing, and one more 10mm bolt on the front bottom of the headlight - you'll probably need a small 6" ratchet extender to reach it.

Once you have those three bolts out, you unplug the main headlight wiring harness - just have to depress a small plastic tab where it connects to the headlight to remove this. Now you can remove the entire headlight casing.

With the headlight casing on your workbench, there are two plastic covers that you turn to remove, then you'll see the back of each of the bulbs. The one with the long white braded wire is the low beam light, the other is the high. remove the standard electrical connections to the bulb, and then there's a small wire that you unhook to release the bulb.

With your new bulb ready - don't touch the glass of the bulb with your fingers tips (use a small tissue) replace the bulb, reconnect the small wire tab to hold it in place, and secure the standard wire connections.

Now just do everything backwards to reinstall the entire casing.


** When you're replacing with a new bulb, try to run the white wire for the low beam bulb as far away from the ground cable conection on the back of he bulb as possible. Mine is all black and charred from where it shorted out on the ground, causing my bulb to prematurely die.

Two suggestions:

Make sure you have the correct screws. The headlight aiming screws are right there too. I screwed this up. No pun intended...

The best tool I found to get at the front side marker screws is a full-size number 1 Philips screwdriver with the handle sawn off short so it doesn't foul on the bullbar. You need a full-length blade, not a stubby, to reach the screws.

...laura

Where did you get the bulb snelson? Canadian Tire told me they discontinued the H3's? Saw a commercial for those Silverstar bulbs, any one know if they make a bulb that would fit a deli?

discontinued H3? I doubt even Canadian Tire would be that silly... they are in far too many vehicles, often in fog lamps. they might be out of stock though...

Silverstar does make H3s, they are stocked at the Canadian Tire near me...

Just answered my own question...again
They make a H3 fog bulb? That seems to be all I can find in H3's?

Just answered my own question...again
They make a H3 fog bulb? That seems to be all I can find in H3's?

probably the same bulb, most of the time it's just the lens that's different for fog lights...

as long as it's an H3 55watt bulb it's right.

FalcoColumbarius wrote:I picked up a nice little red screw driver from Home Depot that is both long enough & doesn't "foul" on the bambie bar. Proceeded to the top deck at Park Royal to set my lights up (ninety degree wall and at least fifty feet of flat lined surface to reverse on).

Falco.

Not to derail this thread but was wondering what is the distance of your low beam?

Snelson, thanks for the thread.

I was reading some testimonies on the Silverstar bulbs and alot of people were saying that they burn out within 4 months! I'll keep lookin around.

deLOOKA wrote:

FalcoColumbarius wrote:I picked up a nice little red screw driver from Home Depot that is both long enough & doesn't "foul" on the bambie bar. Proceeded to the top deck at Park Royal to set my lights up (ninety degree wall and at least fifty feet of flat lined surface to reverse on).

Falco.

Not to derail this thread but was wondering what is the distance of your low beam?

Snelson, thanks for the thread.

They shine about 50 feet, basically I drove right up to a wall that was 90 degrees to the flat surface that I was on (top deck of Park Royal South); marked my centres with tape on the wall; backed up precisely 25 feet, in a straight line (marked out by the parking lines); set my low beam centres to another two pieces of tape two inches lower than the first two pieces.... so I guess that makes them shine farther then 50 feet. I like my low bean configuration. The high beam adjusters are stripped so I got a hold of some old Japanese headlamps and am about to cannibalise said headlamps as the adjusters are still good...... I think.

By the way, the Miss Lil' Bitchi is a P25 so she just gets under the barriers at Park Royal. If you have a P35 I don't think you will get in there. You have to look around, there are very few places that have 40 feet of flat surface with a wall at 90 degrees. Maybe a tennis court practice wall would work......

Cheers! Falco.

So I took the head light right out and brought inside with me this morning (freezing out) and found that it is not the bulb at all that was burnt out. It was little connectors, they are completely fried black with little green specs everywhere. When I tried to detach them form there plugs they just disintegrated? Then I opened the high-beam hole and found the grounding wire on it was completely fried as well... even though I wasn't having problems with the high-beam.
whats goin on?

condensation in there ?

ground/pos could have just shorted

one of ny connectors was just about ready to fall off too. I just clipped the little connector from the wire, and stripped a new bit from the same wire, then reconnected the connector. I should probably go and get new connectors, but just didnt' have the time.
Ideally, you'd probably want to rewire the whole harness if you have the time/patience cause the gauge of these wires is so small, I don't think it takes much to make them brittle - not to mention they're 15 years old and subject to heat/cold extremes.

I make it a point every time I remove a bolt for the first time I cover the threads with never seize when re-installing it.
When taking apart any wires I coat the connections with dielectric grease. On externals like light connections I give the contacts a quick scrub with emery cloth or steel wool, then a film of dielectric.
Dielectric will work for softening up the window/door/rear hatch seals. Massage it into the rubber and then wipe off the excess.

They shine about 50 feet, basically I drove right up to a wall that was 90 degrees to the flat surface that I was on (top deck of Park Royal South); marked my centres with tape on the wall; backed up precisely 25 feet, in a straight line (marked out by the parking lines); set my low beam centres to another two pieces of tape two inches lower than the first two pieces.... so I guess that makes them shine farther then 50 feet. I like my low bean configuration. The high beam adjusters are stripped so I got a hold of some old Japanese headlamps and am about to cannibalise said headlamps as the adjusters are still good...... I think.

By the way, the Miss Lil' Bitchi is a P25 so she just gets under the barriers at Park Royal. If you have a P35 I don't think you will get in there. You have to look around, there are very few places that have 40 feet of flat surface with a wall at 90 degrees. Maybe a tennis court practice wall would work......

Cheers! Falco

I guess because of the city lights I had never really noticed how short the beams are. Only how weak they are. My rude awakening was when I was returning back from Squamish one weekend nite and it was raining. That's when i found out my candle light is only good for about 10 or so feet. Drove with the high beams for most of the way till i got back to the city.

Anyways thanks for your tip Falco. Next project, beam projection. Next purchase, bright lights/bulbs.

-Isaac