Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I'm in the process of installing a the Canadian Tire Hamsar DRL module (45040) in my Delica. I've got a plan for how to do it, I'd just like to run it past you all so that I can get a last minute "no don't do that" if I'm approaching this wrong!

If it works, then I'll try to take some photos and write it up for the Delica wiki, I've noticed this question comes up often. Please bear with me as I'm a total beginner with vehicle work!

This is the plan so far:
I've found two wiring harnesses coming out of the steering column: one for the ignition switch, and one for the headlight/wiper/horn/etc. In the ignition harness, I have isolated the 12V unswitched battery connection and the 12V 'on' switched power. These are 2 of the 6 leads that the Hamsar needs.

In the other harness, I expect to find outgoing leads to the low, high, and parking lights, which are connected to 12V by various states of the headlight switches. I will test these by moving the headlight switches around and looking for +12V on my multimeter, to figure out which wires in the outgoing harness. Once I have these, I'll have another 3 of the 6 Hamsar wires. The remaining wire is ground.

So the final wire layout for the hamsar DRL is this:

Green: 12V switched 'on' (ignition harness)
White: outgoing low beam lead (steering wheel controls harness)
Orange: outgoing high beam lead (steering wheel controls harness)
Red: 12V unswitched from battery (ignition harness)
Black: ground chassis screw next to fusebox
Yellow: outgoing parking lights lead (steering wheel controls harness)

I plan to use tap splice connectors to the wires that are on the non-steering column-side of the harness connection. In other words, just up from the harness, but not in the steering column bundle itself.

I'll mount the DRL box just below or to the left of the fusebox by drilling a couple of holes in the firewall.


How does this all sound? I think I can get all of the DRL connections within a few inches of each other this way. I want to get it finished tonight so if I'm doing anything stupid please tell me now :)
Thanks,
David

Hi, pls dont connect the orange color wire from the module , thats the trick as you will have burn fuses when you used high beam. as i did this before. leave the orange wire alone & it will work even the headlight is on. thats why it say not compatible for mitsubishi written in the box. thats how you fix the problem.
now the rest of the wire will work. its just a matter of how you want to do it.
hope this help
cheer;

Hmm, you mean the low beams will still turn off when the high beams are on, with the high beam wire not connected to the relay? I don't know how this would work, but I'll follow your advice and leave it out and see what happens.

I have a work-van model with standard 6054 sealed beams, instead of the delica double headlight system. The wiring of the bulb assemblies is just like regular north american in every way, and the fusebox layout is a little different from standard delica, because of the 2 headlights not 4. I'm not sure if this changes anything about the orange wire/fuse issue with the Hamsar ...

Anyway thanks for the advice, if I wire in the orange in the end at least I'll know what the problem is when the fuse blows. You have probably saved me a load of trouble!
David

Hi, David,
this is the trick to used this type of module. as you can see in the instruction they connect the orange for high beam.
but it wont work, i used this relay for long time & what i found is that to make it work, you dont connect it to high beam.
now as per you are saying if you dont connect this orange wire, maybe high beam wont turn on when you turn the high. it will for sure 100%. only depends on how you re-wire it.
i dont have any problem with this module as i used this one for long time. its up to you how you do it.
any problem call me pls
Cheers;

Hi David, What kind of Delica did you finally get?

I recall your postings last November about a work style van, not same as our usual Delica, I think it was P25V not the usual P25W, yes? That you planned to camperize ? If it is different, pls post pictures, or I can post them if you want to email me.

Cheers, Christine.

Yes, it turned out to be a P25V "work model", not much difference in most respects though since its interior is heavily modified.

I bought it with the camper conversion already done, here are some pictures:
http://www.fwalive.ualberta.ca/~dpd/del ... hotos.html

I'm very happy :)

dpd wrote:Yes, it turned out to be a P25V "work model", not much difference in most respects though since its interior is heavily modified.

I bought it with the camper conversion already done, here are some pictures:
http://www.fwalive.ualberta.ca/~dpd/del ... hotos.html

I'm very happy :)

That is one beautiful conversion.

May I ask what $ it ended up costing you ?

Jesse

I bought it from a seller in Japan for $12,500 landed, with 73k on the odometer. Searail shipping from Vancouver to my door in Edmonton was about $400.

It runs well and has some neat features... high on the list is a mid-sized diesel Webasto heater with thermostat which heats up the small camper space in minutes, straight from the diesel tank. These things sell for $3000 or more installed! Also, a full set of snap-on silver fabric window coverings, separate RV battery, shore AC power hookup, 3-way fridge, electric running water... a lot of work and attention to detail went in to this tiny motorhome, so I'm pretty stoked to take it out once my OOP inspection is done.