Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I'll have to go out with a meter cause I noticed my lights getting awfully dim on the way home, and after I arrived she wouldn't turn over again. What irks me though, is there hasn't been a charge light. Is this typical? It comes on in the "on" key position. Is it just there to give a guy a false sense of security? I know it's not battery because even with a lousy one, the alternator should give good voltage when running even if the battery can't hold it. But i was driving on like 10-11 volts judging by how dim the lamps were.

Recently, but that won't stop the alternator from providing system juice while engine running. It isn't a function of battery not charging, but no charging voltage.

put in a volt meter in the gauge pod it will help you more than the inclinometer.

Very true; that thing is a gimmick and nothing more. Anyone calibrate it for a rollover :)

Turns out a bad connection among the fusible links. Pulled the battery and recharged it, after re-installing got 12 v with engine running. Buggered with my fusible link connections and suddenly had 14v again.
That's my theory and I'm sticking with it. PLUS I'm going to install an aftermarket 12V meter. I'll leave the inclimometer where it is though; I like gauges here and there. I've already got a second fuel gauge for veggie oil and a exhaust temp gauge. I'd actually like to locate and install a gauge trio from a mid 80's golf or jetta, with volts temp and oil pressure.

helibrian wrote:..... it will help you more than the inclinometer.

Rattlenbang wrote:Very true; that thing is a gimmick and nothing more. Anyone calibrate it for a rollover :)

For me, the inclinometer is very important, critical mass (I estimate) being around 65° it's nice to know just how close you are to that so you don't tip her ('though I've never gone past 50°-52°). However if you're just driving around town it's not so important. Check these links out: http://www.delica.ca/forum/empty-inclinometer-1847.html ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cgZ-FwlKds ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evKmc8maVU8

Regarding your power: With the fog that rolled into the Lower Mainland last week I developed a great deal of corrosion on my terminals, particularly the positives (dual batteries). She wouldn't run at all. Even my " key in the ignition with the door open" chime was affected. I didn't want to pull the batteries because I have so many mods attached to them that I have to sort through ~ but now she wasn't budging so I had to. I pulled both batteries out, cleaned the terminals, including the extensions on the positives. Put it all back together, threw my battery pack on her and she turned over. Took a run out to Horseshoe Bay to charge the batteries and all is copacetic.

I'm not saying that this is definitely your situation but it could be worth looking into.

Falco.

Personally I rely on the sphincter inclinometer. At 15 PSI of sphincter compression on a slope, I back off. Hasn't failed me yet

Rattlenbang wrote:Personally I rely on the sphincter inclinometer. At 15 PSI of sphincter compression on a slope, I back off. Hasn't failed me yet

Grins...

P.S.: Just one more thing that comes to mind: In the last month I started popping 15A ATO fuses in my shock system. At first I thought it was the switch on the console as it was loose but having fixed that it still persisted. I was beginning to suspect the bluetooth receiver was on it's way out. Then this corrosion at the terminals thing happened and since I've cleaned the terminals &c., I'm no longer popping fuses. Not being an electrician, I'm guessing that there was some sort of short/power surge occurring due to the corrosion? I'm going to quiz some of my electrical gurus and see what they have to say. I'm thinking that there was corrosion building up for some time and then it came to a head. I think I may have popped my DI cigarette plug fuse as well. FC