Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Just changed out my glow plugs because I was getting a rough start in the mornings, now it's way worse. I think I'll have to put the old ones back in. Anyone know what the cause would be? Wrong glow plugs maybe? They're NGK CY55.

You could have a bad set of new plugs. Its been known to happen if they got dropped during shipment.

Take them out and bench test each one (see you tube) the heat cycle from cold to bright orange takes mere seconds....anything under 8 is normal.

Alright, I'll check 'em this weekend.

The glow plug number you provided is right...but check the hex-head for an engraved marking '11V'. This is what our L400's use. If for some weird reason you see 6V then you were sold the incorrect units and they would have burned out very quickly.

The very first time I tried to start it it started like shit. I did a full filter change too but it doesn't seem like it's air in the fuel system. It starts and wants to die right away or idles super rough unless I give it a boost with the throttle until it catches.

Weird. In the future only do one thing at a time. Fix, drive , repeat.
Resolved now?

Not yet. Today was my annual Lord of the wings movie marathon (lotr and hot wings) it'll get looked after this weekend.

Check your intercooler hose clamps (tight)
Check your EGR hose(s).
Check the 2 electrical plugs at your intercooler. (both connected, no loose hoses too).
The fuel filter has a butterfly valve and manual primer pump to help dispel entrapped air.

I always check new glow plugs with jumper cables before I put them in. I've had a set come in bad.

Compare the new ones to your old ones, use the ones that light off (turn bright red) the quickest.

Feds wrote:I always check new glow plugs with jumper cables before I put them in. I've had a set come in bad.

Compare the new ones to your old ones, use the ones that light off (turn bright red) the quickest.

Is a resistance test enough for this or is it better to light them up?

If you do the ohms test then all you need to do is remove the bus-bar and test each plug individually in place. You could also test the entire glow plug circuit with bus-bar connected (unplug the power lead) and get a total ohms reading for all 4 plugs. On that note I am going to wire a permanent ohms reader on my glow plugs in the spring so I can know when these infernal things are starting to fail.....hopefully before subzero temps hit.

I didn't get a chance to get under the hood, but I did test my old ones, turns out they were FINE. FFS. So I guess I'll have to double check all the connections at the intercooler and fuel filter as Big-Bird mentioned. It starts fine in warmer weather, so assuming the new glow plugs are fine, the rough cold starts are related to something else. Dammit! Again!

I have the same problem, but on the L300. The weirdest part is when I replaced the old glow plugs, the engine still starts and idles super rough (compared to before). Any ideas?

I tested mine with an old battery charger on 10A, the positive to the top and negative to the body of the plug, they should glow red in a few seconds. Careful when you set then down they'll be hot.

When you changed your filter did it have the extra o ring on the new filter? If it does remove that. Did you properly prime the system? crack the air bleeder on the top front of the fuel filter assembly and pump the primer until just fuel comes out.

They describe the need to remove the extra ring here http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Mitsub ... uel_system