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Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 8:22 pm
by vstrom
Howdy fellow Delicanians..

So I'm doing some much needed rust removal from the van and I have a nasty clump of rust right along the back window. After some research, I found that it isn't overly hard to remove the window by getting a greased string under the gasket and working around the window to ease it out. Now my question is that after you remove the window, can the gasket be re-used? Or is this something that will rip or tear as I go?

Thanks

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:08 pm
by Rattlenbang
Usually they are cut out and replaced, but I know that rubber is pricey. The thing to remember is that the reason the rust happened is that the rubber is no longer doing its job. Instead of keeping the rain out, it's leaking and holding it against the metal. Very common problem with old VW buses and vans. I suppose you can try and reuse it, but if you did I would put a bead of urethane sealant all around it to keep water from getting back in there. I've got a bit of the same thing on my van to deal with, sooner or later.
Are you going to repaint just the back hatch or the whole van?

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:15 pm
by TardisDeli
One major cause of the rust there is the "dimples" in the steel, two along the bottom of the glass, a few inches in from either side. Apparently they are to give the moisture a place to drain away, but it seems to just attract the moisture. Not all models have the dimples.

As long as the rubber is intact I would just reuse it. Do use the windshield sealant that stays flexible after curing (ie it never truly cures) so it stays flexible with all the vehicle movement (harder sealants will crack with the vibrations, and allow water leak).

Cheers Christine.

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:22 pm
by vstrom
Rattlenbang wrote:Usually they are cut out and replaced, but I know that rubber is pricey. The thing to remember is that the reason the rust happened is that the rubber is no longer doing its job. Instead of keeping the rain out, it's leaking and holding it against the metal. Very common problem with old VW buses and vans. I suppose you can try and reuse it, but if you did I would put a bead of urethane sealant all around it to keep water from getting back in there. I've got a bit of the same thing on my van to deal with, sooner or later.
Good points.. I never really thought about what caused that rust. Not sure if I should order a new gasket or try to re use it with some silicone to seal it properly. Is it delica specific or something generic that Apple Auto Glass would have?

I'm just repainting the hatch below the window. I'm halfway done my bull bars and front bumper already. Just using the rattlecan method and going slow so that it'll look alright.

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:28 pm
by Rattlenbang
You don't want to use silicon as it has acetic acid in it. Proper urethane glass sealer from Lordco or JB auto is what to use. The glass places might have generic rubber channel; worth a look. Seems to me someone wanted over $200.00 for that piece.

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:36 pm
by thedjjack
Google on youtube using a string you do not need to cut the rubber (a glass shop will usual pop it out cheap for you I paid $25.00 to put mine back in)

I removed mine with a piece of angle iron that my drill threw at it....

I bought my used window it came with the rubber and the local glass shop was so cheap it seamed easier then smashing it again...

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:41 pm
by nxski
TardisDeli wrote:One major cause of the rust there is the "dimples" in the steel, two along the bottom of the glass, a few inches in from either side. Apparently they are to give the moisture a place to drain away, but it seems to just attract the moisture. Not all models have the dimples.

As long as the rubber is intact I would just reuse it. Do use the windshield sealant that stays flexible after curing (ie it never truly cures) so it stays flexible with all the vehicle movement (harder sealants will crack with the vibrations, and allow water leak).

Cheers Christine.
I was under the impression that the dimple was added because of the rusting issue. I have the dimple on mine with no rusting and the only vans I've seen that are rusted in the rear don't have that dimple.

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:45 pm
by konadog
That's right - the dimple showed up in 92 to help drain water and prevent the classic rust spot back there in the older buses. I've never seen rust there on 92 plus models, but heaps on earlier ones.

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:22 pm
by nxski
konadog wrote:That's right - the dimple showed up in 92 to help drain water and prevent the classic rust spot back there in the older buses. I've never seen rust there on 92 plus models, but heaps on earlier ones.
I think it happened part way through 91 because mine was built in March of 91 and has that as well as the shoulder belts.

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:55 am
by vstrom
Well I think I'm going to give'er a try myself and re-use the gasket. I figure there's a 1 in 10 chance I break the window anyway.. so if that happens I'll get a new gasket with it. May try to remove it today.

You know, i've got the front bumper and bars almost all primed up and I was thinking that the whole van painted primer grey might look kinda cool. I might try to photoshop that and see how it looks..

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:06 pm
by thedjjack
Just make sure you PAINT it primer colour and not paint it with primer...primer allows liquids to penetrate it...this is why everyone who fixes rust and primes it and drives around for a week or two has the rust back....

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:01 pm
by yojimbo
Or primer and clear laquer, primer also gets dirty easy. A mat black finish would be another option.

As for windows, I've done windshields like this on my own, but 2 people really helps

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:27 pm
by vstrom
Success!

Got it off this afternoon and in one piece! Ended up not using the string method.. used two thin flat-head screwdrivers and just worked it out. No problems at all.

I don't seem to have dimples on my window frame (it is a '91). There is three drain holes though, the right one is fine, the center one is pretty rusty but the left one is rusted out to the size of a quarter. So I guess I have alittle bit more work to do..

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:40 pm
by Rattlenbang
Good for you! You gonna weld it or use body adhesive to put in new metal?

Re: Rear window removal

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:59 pm
by mararmeisto
I've heard of some people adding the dimples to the earlier rear doors in order to stave off the return of the rust spots, but I think they were in the automotive body industry. It's probably more than just pressing in the metal in a particular area.

Good luck on your repairs. The window should just pressure fit back into place.