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Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:41 pm
by BobTheRussian
So im installing my old veg kit into my latest L300 Deli...

All the relays and switches light up and click away nicely but when I blow through the valves to test which port is open when a current is applied, neither one is doing anything. The valves just don't appear to work anymore. Only the negative (no current) port is open.

Am I missing something here? I checked with a meter to confirm that there is current going to the valves but nothing is happening inside.

One of them was exposed a short time post crash to some battery acid... but it didn't touch the valve (noticeably), just corroded the bolts going into the side of it. I don't see any reason they shouldn't work.

Anyone else had experience with these or have any ideas? They are grounded well and look good but nothing happening. 2 of them. Used for one month or 2 in total. AndrewH kit.

Thanks, Duncan

BRING ON THE WINTER! 8-)

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 6:15 pm
by RichD
Did you test the valve by applying power directly to the valve solenoid terminals? As you probably know, it will audibly click.

Also did you rebuild the valve before installation? I always pull them right apart and clean them out thoroughly, checking the o-rings for wear. Ideally do this before putting it in storage.

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 6:54 pm
by BobTheRussian
I just took them apart and WD40ed them. There was a little gunge.

They are clicking when a voltage is applied, however, I put them back in the housing and blew through to check and they're still not moving where the air goes... its clicking but only the negative side is open regardless of any voltage or not.

I cant think of anything else to do, clean them, put them back together, switch them on and off to try free up whatever the issue is...

There is some teflon sealant on the thread which was a bit messy but they're pretty clean now.

Im thinking about going on a road trip into the states tomorrow but really dont want to burn diesel...

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:01 pm
by RichD
WD40 is an oxidant. I hope you didn't use it on the o-rings.

You could try actuating the solenoids when they are out of the valve body. Any movement? If it clicks but does not move perhaps they are shot. I've never dealt with a failed set so I'm not sure what you'd expect to see.

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:53 pm
by BobTheRussian
Yeah theyre moving a bit out the body. They click and splash a bit but no obvious movement. Ive never seen what they should do outside the body either. I hope they're not toast. Thats what you meant by actuating right? Applying current to them whilst the solenoids are out?

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:05 pm
by BobTheRussian
Gave the solenoids a little bang around... one is working great the other is 50%...

"If in doubt, give it a clout" seemed to work... woooooohooo! Back to free transport and humungous road trips to far away mountains!

I did spray wd40 on the o rings.... what can I do about that? Should I be VERY afraid?

Thanks!

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:51 am
by RichD
Yeah sounds like one of your valves is blown. You can replace the valve and keep the body. Get a spare o-ring set while yer at it.

Warm soapy water is best for cleaning this stuff. Sometimes I've had to do a pre-wash with simple green or the like to break up the residue. Rinse clean water. I use air pressure to blow everything dry.

Re: Hydraforce valve issues

Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:08 pm
by PlantDrive
Best to dismantle them or any other solenoid and give everything a good soak and clean in diesel *before* you store them unused.

But, if they have seized up from a period of being laid up, because that wasn't done, then do the above, but use biodiesel to soak and clean them. Don't soak the actual magnets, just the valve bodies and the actuator end that is normally immersed in fluid. Leave them overnight.

Then actuate the solenoids a bunch of times and get them freed up, and then reassemble. It's actually very rare for the solenoid itself to fail.