Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I'm in Bryce Canyon and have 2 problems at the moment.

1. My pyrometer has just started acting oddly. The needle started shaking violently then proceeded to stop moving at all. I stopped for a couple minutes and tried it again and it sort-of worked but the temperatures seemed a bit low and the needle would periodically shake. I'm thinking there might be a connection problem. There is power going to it because the light is on but maybe there's a short somewhere!? Any ideas?

2. I'm getting a ticking sound which speeds up and slows down with revs but only to a certain point, if the van revs above 2500 the noise goes away. The exhaust seems to amplify the sound but it seems to be coming from under the drivers seat.

Thanks in advance

ticking sound under seat

You mean engine compartment ? put finger on metal fuel line at injector and feel for ting ting ticking. that is nozzle worn

pyrometer sound like crazy Russian ! may electric it can be

I had a similar problem with my Pyro it was the way I ran the wires along a large loom I noticed the needle danced more if the lights and fan were on. So I rerouted it and it has been fine. I think it was getting electrical interferen
From the loom. The ticking noise could be injector like said above, I would look around the Turbo and exhaust manifold for black soot marks ie maybe a crack or blow gasket.

Also if you have tools maybe pull the Pyro probe out and check it just a thought came to me

Good luck

Dustin

Hi Nick, Christine here. Jay says sounds like your pyro guage dying (cheap electronics, shaken about in L300).

The ticking noise, if its not a stone in the tire. Maybe exhaust leak? I wonder about a loose muffler connector - I had similar noise when the rear hangar clamp was dying and it put more strain at the connection where it comes out of the van... fixed by an extra hangar sort of midway along. If it dissappears at 2500 rpm, maybe that is also when your typical shaking of the L300 calms down ...are you automatic or manual, the 2500 rpm is very different for either. FYI my auto runs smoothly at 1750 or 2400prm.

Or maybe both symptoms are related, ie because your pyro probe is loose, so you hear a rattle, and the guage readings are hinky.

Bryce canyon is beautiful.
Cheers, Christine.

I hope the pyro isn't dead, I paid $200 for 7 months ago (Auto Meter). I'm thinking the exhaust is the most viable reason for the ticking since the installation shop only put one hanger on it and it keeps working itself loose. I'll look into that and then proceed to the other options.

I've found on the cummins forum that if the pyro isn't run directly to the battery it could be problematic (I don't know how it was wired). I also did have the heater on full blast because the water temperature started getting hot going uphill so maybe there's interference. I don't have many tools with me (probably enough to get the job done though) nor do I have much time, do you think this would be something any mechanic shop could handle?

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93 ... -up-2.html

I would just trace the Pyro and see if you can use a better ground or if it is ran along a loom my fix took about ten minutes. Has there are a ton of auto parts places in the states but you should not need more than a Phillips and some zap ties

Dustin

Short answer: 90% electrical/grounding/shorting/bad conection issue

Bigger answer (with light reading attached):

Pyro gauges using a thermocouple are measuring extremely tiny electrical voltages across a metallic junction of two different metals:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple

Given Auto Meter's installation instructions: http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/0593A.pdf and their reference to not monkeying with the length of the wiring harness (which would affect the resistance of the probe, and hence its calibration) I suspect this is the case.

(Either that or they are using an RTD, but same result; measuring tiny voltage changes: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistance ... e_detector)

So yeah, any interference or grounding issues can cause them to go wacko. So I'd definitely start there.

Good Hunting!

What series of Autometer gauge is it? I have had both a Z series pyro in my 1st Surf and the liquid filled Sport Comp something something in the L400. The Z series was a POS...needle stuck all the time and/or bounced around...had to smack it all the time.

Do not look to the thermocouple wires to be your problem if the gauge is acting erratic, it will either be an issue with the power or ground wire or worst case the gauge itself is toast. Most pyros have a K thermocouple of chromel aluminum and when you get a break in the wiring they tend to read a constant value around room temp like 23oC on most reading devices, they do not bounce around and go crazy.

Pyro has no moving parts. Gauge has moving parts. Likely problem is gauge. That being said, it could be a connection as well.

Still, I've not heard much good about these AutoMeter meters... trouble is, I don't know of a good substitute.

I just spoke with a mechanic who told me it's either the gauge or the sending unit (he seemed very dismissive of electrical problems. I traced the ground down to a screw under the dash and thought that might be the problem so I attached a jumper cable to the end and then attached that to the negative terminal on the battery. That made no difference and now the gauge appears to be completely dead. I was told by the guy who installed the meter that his did the same thing and he had to just replace the gauge. Considering it's only 7 months old and is so expensive I'm not too pleased with this. Also, they don't sell Pyro gauges and considering the high temperatures I've been seeing while under minimal load I'm worried about trying to drive too far to get new one. Any suggestions on what to do?

Another couple points about the ticking are that it only happens when I start the van and at low revs (as mentioned before) if I've driven for 5-10 minutes the noise goes away. I had the injectors cleaned and inspected at CVI less than 2 months ago so I hope that isn't the problem.

injectors sounds like it is

do you use diesel fuel additive sir? diesel bad it can be is the united America

batman wrote:injectors sounds like it is

do you use diesel fuel additive sir? diesel bad it can be is the united America

Yes, I put in fuel additive every fill-up. What makes you think injectors? It's now developed a whine if I really push on the pedal. Is this something I should be overly worried about?

you have mobile with camera yes ?

take video and show sounds

I tried that but all the sounds get drown out by the engine noise. I have to get my friend over to Albuquerque for her flight home so I'm trying to make sure I can drive it there. Unfortunately all the repair shops I've been to are over staffed and don't want to work.

EDIT: Does anyone know of a good mechanic in Moab?

Noise: get some rubber hose an hold one end to motor and other to ear....listen for the noise...

ticking noises:
-injector
-injector pump
-valves (listen to valve cover)
-loose parts rattle/vibrating
-wrist pin or rod bearing (change oil should go away with fresh for a bit)

Pyro = gauge my guess (like the one I got of RichD works great an warning light and alarm feature is great)

.most auto shops should be able to get one in few hours.
-internet order one to nearest post office overnight..