Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Wiggled my turbo's intake turbine today. Wiggle wiggle :( has about 0.75mm of play... How much time do you guys figure before it explodes?

Im not sure on what is acceptable play, but I would get ready for a rebuild. It will always fail you when you're in the middle of nowhere :)


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Rebuild ... 1c0e45d2aa

I would find proper specs I have had garret and holeset turbos brand new with 0.20'' up and down and more in and out phoned dealer they said it was fine just set at Max spec. OK I said if it fails in the first year you guys are paying for the customers motor.

I wouldnt worry about that as its a journal bearing so the oil gap is multiplied by the length of the shaft.

It has quite a bit of play with no oil. The shafts sit on a pressure gradient of oil while the shaft spins. Without oil, the shaft will have tons of play.

What to look for before it self destructs:

The shafts should have no axial play (you shouldn't be able to push the shaft in or out much). The linear movement shows the real wear in the shaft.

The shafts should spin freely. If they bind, you have a problem.

The usual repair is to replace the chra, so long as the blades have not hit the housing. Then it's a paper weight.

Si if you have a slight bit of "up and down" play on the fins do not worry about it, if the play is enough that the housing will start to get damaged or show signs of damage then its rebuild time. If there are signs of oil in there do not worry it is the system recycling itself from the "PCV" which is non existent. To minimize the oil residue you can install an oil catch can, which then you can empty when it becomes full. Like the previous post had mentioned if you can move the "fins" in and out then there is shaft wear. I have rebuilt several turbos in the past and the "up/down movement will almost always be there, remember oil pressure will lubricate the turbo and once it starts spooling there should not be any movement up and down due to centrifical force. The biggest problems is people revving up a diesel as soon as it starts and shutting down too soon after a hard drive, just remember give it 30-90 seconds to cool before shutting down the engine.

Well I have avoided admitting this till now. I bought a new turbo, replaced it, same problem. Sigh... $600 lesson however I was able to fix all the leaks in the intake manifold and exhaust manifold gasket, port polish my turbo and exhaust, and port out my waste gate port to a larger size. I am now running only 7psi boost so I will be upping that to 14psi once my controller shows in zee mail.

I hope that solves it because what the issue seems to be is I am not hitting that "power range" when the A/T shifts between 3rd and 4th. My RPM's are 2500 when it shifts which isn't good on a hill because that drops to 2100 and I start blowing smoke due to un burnt fuel hitting the turbo. (Possibly because low boost?) Or because my transmission isn't tuned to what the engine is doing. So step one is up my boost after the intercooler to 14psi. Step two is take it in and get a transmission specialist to make sure everything is shifting when it should. Then have some fun!!!!

LeeHammy wrote: I hope that solves it because what the issue seems to be is I am not hitting that "power range" when the A/T shifts between 3rd and 4th. My RPM's are 2500 when it shifts which isn't good on a hill because that drops to 2100 and I start blowing smoke due to un burnt fuel hitting the turbo. (Possibly because low boost?) Or because my transmission isn't tuned to what the engine is doing. So step one is up my boost after the intercooler to 14psi. Step two is take it in and get a transmission specialist to make sure everything is shifting when it should. Then have some fun!!!!

Maybe check your TPS?

http://www.delica.ca/forum/better-l400- ... tml#p52815

That's all working fine. This happens in the mid position not in power or in hold while on the highway.

upgrade valve body and get a short shift kit for a NA monty
it will be a race car

Uhh?

figure out which trans you have and plug it in at transgo.

http://transgoonline.com/products.php?p ... ntview=Yes

order the shift kit with 14-16L of Valvoline Max Life DEX/MERC ATF and get the shift kit installed with a flush.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... n-fluid/37

it will feel like a race car when shifting between 2-3

Hmm got me thinking.. Have you tried this yourself? If so.. Instalation simple? Or done by pro? Worth it?

LeeHammy wrote:That's all working fine. This happens in the mid position not in power or in hold while on the highway.

The title of the thread is misleading; I thought I needed to run in HOLD mode to shift properly; turns out it was my TPS out of adjustment. Quick thing to check if you'[ve never done it, and it made a world of difference in my shift pattern/smoothness

on a 4runner and XJ.

install on the 4runner was a pain. XJ was easy.

Ok thanks both of you, first thing is boost then I'm taking it to a transmission place and I'll mention the kit and the adjustment on the hold thing. Thanks!!