Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Hello all,

First, some history:

The previous owners of our 1988 Delica Exceed turbo diesel 4wd (4D56) had replaced the manifold gasket before we bought it. They said we should tighten the nuts and bolts after 500km to ensure the prevention of subsequent leakage (they had failed to do this in the past, leading to a put-put-put leaking).

Therefore, I embarked on this task. I was working through the 8 nuts and 8 bolts (4 cylinders, 4 inlets, 4 exhausts, inlets with 2 bolts each into the engine block, and exhausts with 2 nuts each on threaded shafts out of the engine block).

I was working in a systematic fashion in the manner of tightening the cylinder head, for example (criss-cross from the centre).

I was told to tighten between 1/16 and 1/8 of a turn, and had no torque wrench so was tightening with only arm strength (no weight) and until solid resistance, using spanners and a socket set.

Therefore, the problem:

On the 9th bolt (the upper bolt of the inlet manifold for the 2nd from front cylinder), I tightened slightly, taking up some slack, and PING...

THE BOLT SHEARED OFF AT THE BOTTOM OF THE THREADLESS SHANK (~20mm from the head).

I am now left with the head of the bolt in my hand, the threaded body stuck in the hole in the engine block and one of the inlet manifolds held only by 1 bolt (therefore, only 7/8 of the bolts secured for the inlet manifold).

CAN ANYONE OFFER ANY HELP OR SUPPORT?

ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PROBLEM BEFORE?

POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS WHEN TAKING IT TO A MECHANIC?

REMOVE STUCK BOLT WITH AN EASY-OUT REMOVER TOOL?
DRILL OUT BOLT AND RE-THREAD HOLE FOR WIDER DIAMETER BOLT?
NEED TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT FOR THOSE THINGS?!
USE A TORQUE WRENCH FROM NOW ON?!

[/b]HAS THIS HAPPENED TO ANYONE ELSE BEFORE OR AM I JUST TOO MUCH OF AN AMATEUR (WITH TOO STRONG AN ARM)?!

IS THE CAR SUITABLE FOR DRIVING LONG/SHORT DISTANCES?

I would really appreciate some feedback!

Thank you!

Find a shop with good experience doing this. Call around (there an exhaust shop I used that all the dealers took their cars too because he was the only one that could pull this off)...

The fact that the bolt was recently out should make it easier.

IF you do it yourself you need to drill perfectly centre and straight then try an easy out. You can also get reverse drill bits so when the drill bits it trys to pull out the broken bolt. Slow and steady. If things go bad a helicoil might work depends on water jacket...

It would be easier with the manifold off to do it or even easier with the head off.

Phone around first...if not get the reverse bits and a good easy out.

if you have 20mm to grab onto, take manifold off, grab it with a pair of vise grips and unscrew it out.

delilahdelilah wrote:NEED TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT FOR THOSE THINGS?!
USE A TORQUE WRENCH FROM NOW ON?!

If you are asking these questions, I would recommend to take it into a shop and have them remove it or drill/helicoil tap it so there is no more damage done.

The advice you were given was wrong to just go ahead and tighten. A torque wrench is necessary so the bolts are not sheared off.

I'm assuming you're taking about the manifold bolts and not the head bolts?

As David and Reza said, there are a few options. If you have never done them before, the possibility is there to do it right and wrong the first time. I would err on the side of watching someone who has done it before and learning from that experience.

I you do pull the head and there is room to install the manifold on STUDS I would change all the bolts to studs....

Also, replace all the bolts they may all be weak from over torquing in the past or stress from just being a manifold bolt..

Replace them all and use a torque wrench

best of luck with it..

Method 1
Is the bolt sheered flush with the manifold. If so get a nut of the size that would fit on the stud. Have it mig welded to the stud, through the hole in the nut. Cool, and then remove with wrench.

This video may help or show a shop it and have them do it.



Method 2


Method 3


Method 4

A lot of bolts on the deli have quite a low rating, I sheared one off too, and it wasnt particularly tight, but it was only 4.8 IIRC. If its stuck in with any force, ie its tight or rusted, welding is the only way I've had success with it, if they are loose once they shear, as the tension is removed, you can sometimes tap it around enough to get some purchase.