Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I want to change the fuel filter, and have never done it myself before. Do I have to be on/or near empty before I change it? Any tips?

Josh

Make sure you have something under the old filter to catch the fuel when you drain and remove it. Make sure you clean the filter head really well before you take the old filter off.

If you can disconnect the wire to the water sensor and thread it onto the new filter, then you can pre fill the new unit before you thread it on. You will need to prime the system up to the injection pump to purge any air.

good luck

Thanks, how often should I be changing the fuel filter anyhow?

josh wrote:Thanks, how often should I be changing the fuel filter anyhow?

I would personally recommend changing it every 6,000 - 10,000 kms. The fuel pump is very sensitive and regular filter changes not only help it run better, but you'll also find your performance drops off rapidly if you don't! (I know this from personal experience! )

Regards,

Bruce.

Thanks Bruce,

It sure is a delight to have you contributing so much on this site. I know I really appretiate the knowledge you bring.

(I know this was a simpler thread... but we will continue to test you!)

Josh

Bruce, are you the "Metal Monkeys" guy?

If so, I am on the list of us northerners who want one of your lift kits.

Josh

Hi Josh,
I changed out my fuel filter a few weeks ago, and found it easier to take the whole assembly out than to fiddle with it in the awkward location it's in. I disconnected the wires to the sensor, loosened off the hose clamps and eased off the fuel lines (Remembering which is which!) and then took out the bolts that connected the filter to the mounting bracket (not the bolts that connect the bracket to the back wall of the engine compartment. )
With the whole thing free I could put it in the vise to work on it, could see what I'm doing better, and had more room to work. I opened and drained the old filter into a container, replaced the O-ring with the new one from the filter box, and put the plastic plug into the bottom of the new filter. I filled up the filter with SeaFoam to give my injectors a cleaning before replacing the top part. Then I just covered the fuel in/out pipes with my fingers so I wouldn't drip any as I reinstalled in reverse order.
Hope that helps!
Jon

Jon, is that stuff pricey and how did your engine run on nothing but solvent for the first while? http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechDiesel.htm. Does seem like a great idea.

Guess I should be asking how your engine ran with the diesel lines connected in reverse.

I paid around $14 a can for the SeaFoam, and it took about 1 1/4 cans to fill the fuel filter. I had put 1/4 a can into my crankcase about an hour before doing an oil change, and dumped the rest of the can into the fuel tank.
I was expecting loads of smoke when I first started it up, but it wasn't really that bad. There was a little bit more smoke while driving around until I used up the tank, and after that, smoke was greatly reduced. (Smoke was the reason I did the injector cleaning in the first place) I noticed a performance boost as well, but since I did fuel filter, injection & crankcase cleaning, and oil/filter change all at the same time, I can't attribute the better performance to any one thing.

Guess I should be asking how your engine ran with the diesel lines connected in reverse

Never happened to me, but I remember thinking how easy it could happen because the lines look the same, aren't marked, and flop around loose when disconnected. 8)

Napa has sea foam on sale right now.
motor 500 mls $7.87
trans $7.87
deep creep $8.30

I'm going to give it a go. It looks like a very good inital step before cleaning injectors or changing glow plugs. Even if I still need to do either job or both jobs anyway, it will make for an easier, more effective task.

I just had my timing belt changed at Japan Auto in Abbotsford.
The mechanic seemed to know these vehicles well and is not learning as he goes which is reassuring.

I got him to change the fuel filter too, as the first time sounds as thought it might be critical if it has been a long time between removals. Now the challenge is to take away the dread of a job that must be repeated regularly.
I like the idea of pulling the whole filter out and changing it on a bench.
The install seems much simplier.
Any down side?
Or easily done common mistake?
Is there any way of simplifying it?
Quick connects? a mount?
Any thoughts on adding a racor filter?
Plastic fuel tank? I heard it reduces condensation.

I will pick it up soon and post the costs.
It will be a lot because I went with the idea that whatever he took off put on a new one and I'll have the old as a spare. So new rubber, and a new water pump. He mentioned that it was a common wear point and the job is mostly done when you replace the timing belt anyway.

I will find out next week.

I had my timing belt/water pump and all belts done, as well as my thermostat. Had them all done at Japan Auto in Abbotsford as well. It was around the $950 range. Seemed very competative... as well as them being nice honest folks.

Josh

well guys thats great, but the idea of taking the ferry over and possibly have to leave the van there for a couple days, if you add up all the costs involved, it sounds rather pricey plus time consuming to me... can't we find a decent honnest guy on the island that can do all that propperly?
i am still waiting for quotes on similar projects from the guy in coombs,
i guess he will get back to me soon, he was waiting on price quotes for timing belt kits etc.. has anybody got their timing belts plus water pump etc done on the island and were satisfied by the work and cost, please share the infos! cheers!

I think you should phone Glen (I think that's the right name) at ccautos, he said his puter was down and his dauhters puter was the only one he had use of last time I talked to him.

Kev - thinking of taking a ferry to get some work on work Delica.

Good quality lubes and fuel have all the additive they need in them already.Aftermarket additives, snake oil, mechanic in a can etc. can really play havoc with the chemical additive packages found in your engine oil and driveline lubricants. So much so in fact that they will void almost any new vehicle warranty.

Recent legislation has forced fuel and lubricant manufacturers to dramatically alter the formulation of their additive packages, especially where low and ultra low sulpher diesel is concerned. Changes have been made to the latest engine lubricants in order to ensure they are more compatible with the latest fuel[s]. Best not to risk subjecting your vehicle to potentially catastrophic "additive trauma".

JDM is using a landcruiser specialist in Nanaimo for thier warranty work.
It might be worth checking him out.

good luck

thanks for the tips on those "miracle cleaning" additives Mike, i was considering getting some of that "sea foam" stuff as a step towards a tune up routine, i think i won't now, by the way i fueled up at chevron the other night and there was a sign on the diesel pump stating"low sulpher diesel"
i assume its probably better if they advertise it, but why? also, who is JDM in nanaimo, is this an importer? and if so and if you think that their mechanic is decent and knowledgeable of the delicas do you have their #? you must be counting the days for your '92 to show up , give me a ring sometimes once the christmas gong show is over! i think that if i find a decent guy to do my extencive tune-up on the van that i might keep it, i just hope that once the water leak issue and the tune up is done, that the annoying surprises with it will leave me alone otherwise you'l see a for sale sign on that thing in no time! BTW bc delica, thanks for the heads up on glenn's computer problems, it explains why he hasen't got back to me yet i guess, are you planning on going thru him to get work done on your deli? anyways, cheers everyone and merry ho.ho! :P :lol: