Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

So I attempted the EGR removal today, but hit a hiccup and didn't get it done. It looks like the previous owner of my van sealed one end of my EGR unit off(couldn't even unscrew one of the nuts), which is another issue I'll have to figure out. Anyways, I'm a bit confused as to what's going on with my vacuum hose.

It appears the previous owner has also removed the vacuum hose? Am I correct in assuming that the hose broken off in the below picture is where the vacuum hose is supposed to go?

Also, it seems that this wasn't an accident, as the other end is plugged as shown below: Now, my first thought when I saw this was "oh.....well I suppose the previous owner has a blocking plate in?", which I found out is definitely not the case when I disconnected the one end of the EGR.

My question is: Is it bad to have the vacuum hose disconnected when the EGR is still in? Or, is this the most basic form of an EGR removal (ie. cutting off/sealing off the vacuum hose stops the EGR from functioning)? If this is the case - is removing or blocking the EGR even going to make much of a difference?

I plan to do a full removal with a pyro install in the next couple months, but was hoping to have at the very least blocked this unit today.....

Usually the EGR gets so gunked up with crud that it no longer opens/shuts like it's supposed to, and since it's normally shut (unless the engine is cold), blanking off the vacuum hose would have the same effect.

It's lazy, but it would work in most cases.

Better to remove the EGR properly, install a blanking plate, block off the vacuum hose.

shealy wrote:Is it bad to have the vacuum hose disconnected when the EGR is still in? Or, is this the most basic form of an EGR removal (ie. cutting off/sealing off the vacuum hose stops the EGR from functioning)?

No, very common.

shealy wrote:is removing or blocking the EGR even going to make much of a difference?

No difference from what you currently have.

I have my vacuum hose blocked and disconnected with my EGR still installed, just until I can get a set of blanking plates and a pyro kit. Gather all your parts together and do it all at once.

Easiest way to plug them is to insert a bearing into the hose and keep connected. In places that emission testing includes a visual inspection this is very common...

So then how come there's many EGR blanking posts (for example: Mystery Machine's) when the simplest method is just to block off the vacuum hose? I don't mean to downplay these helpful posts, but now I'm a bit more confused.....

I totally understand the complete removal to allow for an EGT probe right through one of the plates, but how come folks are using blanking plates (or full removals with no EGT) if the same effect is done by blocking the vacuum hose? Please excuse my lack of knowledge, but this just seems odd to me.

The EGR on my L400 was actually beginning stick partially open all the time before I removed it; when the thing starts malfunctioning from gunking up, just blanking off the vacuum control hose is no guarantee that it is shut all the time.

The only way to make 100% sure that there is no exhaust gas going into the manifold is to remove the path (i.e. the valve) entirely and blank off the resulting holes.

Ahh, this is all making more sense! I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips as to removing whatever sealant is on the one side of the EGR. Its hard to tell in that confined space but it looks like there might be muffler sealant in between (in lieu of a gasket?). Looks kinda silvery/metallic coming from between the EGR and engine. Is this easily dealt with or am I S.O.L?

Scrape it off with a putty knife and get some hi temp sealant the stuff I used was gold coloured and came in a small squeeze tube.