Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I've been driving my new work truck around for a while and just got back into my van and the brakes seem to not be doing as good of a job as I remembered. I realize that the L300 brakes are not the best and I haven't done the dual piston upgrade yet but I have to push the pedal down quite far before it actually starts to brake and once it does start it seems quite jerky. I'm still unsure if it was like this before and I'm just more aware because of the switch from a brand new truck with big brakes back to a 20 year old van with sub par performance.

I've recently had the brake hoses replaced and worked well for the Whipsaw trip, the brake callipers and rotors have been checked and are working fine. I thought I remembered reading that there was a cable that could be tightened or replaced to get the brakes to engage without having to push the pedal down quite as far!? Unfortunately a google search didn't reveal the thread I remembered reading.

Hopefully this is a nice easy and quick solution!? wink-wink, nudge-nudge

Thanks

nxski wrote:I've been driving my new work truck around for a while and just got back into my van and the brakes seem to not be doing as good of a job as I remembered. I realize that the L300 brakes are not the best and I haven't done the dual piston upgrade yet but I have to push the pedal down quite far before it actually starts to brake and once it does start it seems quite jerky. I'm still unsure if it was like this before and I'm just more aware because of the switch from a brand new truck with big brakes back to a 20 year old van with sub par performance.

I've recently had the brake hoses replaced and worked well for the Whipsaw trip, the brake callipers and rotors have been checked and are working fine. I thought I remembered reading that there was a cable that could be tightened or replaced to get the brakes to engage without having to push the pedal down quite as far!? Unfortunately a google search didn't reveal the thread I remembered reading.

Hopefully this is a nice easy and quick solution!? wink-wink, nudge-nudge

Thanks

Check your brake fluid level and bleed again.
If symptom persist, you may have a brake master cylinder problem.
I hope you just feel it is soft as replacing a brake master cylinder hurts anyway in case of L300.

Steven

That's the first thing I'll check when it's lighter out. It was just recently bled too. What do you mean by hard? Hard to replace or hard to handle in terms of cost?

The braking is just as powerful as it's always been it just feels like there's too much slack before it starts braking.

with the dual piston calipers you get more modulation (feel) but less travel (brakes start grabbing closer to the floor) than stock at the brake pedal.

nxski wrote:That's the first thing I'll check when it's lighter out. It was just recently bled too. .......

Could have air in the lines. Bleed again, like Steven mentioned. Might not be topped up. Or it could just be the difference between the new work truck and what you're used to in the Delica.

Falco.

nxski wrote:What do you mean by hard? Hard to replace or hard to handle in terms of cost?

It takes longer to replace as you have to take out steering wheel.
It is desirable to use a new part ,but it is quite expensive from Mitsubishi Japan.

Steven

I don't have the dual piston calipers so we can rule that out. When I finally get a chance I'll check the fluid level. Before replacing anything I'll have someone at the meet drive it around to say if it feels normal.
Thanks

Slacken off the emergency brake cable and then adjust the rear brakes.
If the cable is too tight the rear cylinders have to move too far to engage the shoes.
The hand brake will feel proper, but the hydraulics are out of adjustment.
As the brake shoes wear the auto adjusters never work properly and the parking brake handle has more travel. Adjusting the parking brake cures the symptom but not the cause.

Edwin did my master cylinder for me while he had my injector pump out: http://www.delica.ca/forum/a-visit-to-c ... -4814.html

jelbon wrote:Slacken off the emergency brake cable and then adjust the rear brakes.
If the cable is too tight the rear cylinders have to move too far to engage the shoes.
The hand brake will feel proper, but the hydraulics are out of adjustment.
As the brake shoes wear the auto adjusters never work properly and the parking brake handle has more travel. Adjusting the parking brake cures the symptom but not the cause.

I'm referring to the brake pedal here not the emergency brake, is this what you're referring to as well. I'm not completely clear on the symptoms you're referring to.

I'm hoping there will be a lot of capable minds at the meet to determine if this is indeed a problem. I'm hoping it's not too expensive, I've spent around $16,000 on my van in the last year and am hoping to cut back so I can save for travelling in May.

Thanks for the link Falco, very informative!

If your brakes feel spongy but stiffen up after a few pumps of the pedal, the issue is the cable/rear brake adjustment.
In any case you should eliminate that as a possible cause.
Changing out the master cylinder looks to be an odious chore. So I hope it's not required to fix your van.

It does feel stiffer when I pump the brakes. I thought that was typical of any vehicle though!?

That's because most vehicles with rear drum brakes are not properly adjusted.
Jack up and put jack stands under to support the van.
Remove the rims.
Put the trans in neutral.
Slacken the park brake cable off completly.
Adjust the rear brakes by removing the brake drum , clean the whole assembly with brake clean then manually turn the auto adjuster, keep putting the drum back on and spinning it until there is light friction, pump the brakes and check that the drum friction is the same, if it slacks off adjust again until it stays constant.
Do the same to the other side.
Adjust the park brake cable.

So this is actually a problem with the drums and not the disks? I had my drums adjusted about 8 months ago and had the whole kit to replace the old items (I've been working a long time and have forgotten the name of the kit) installed.

Hard to diagnose without seeing the vehicle.
At least if you adjust them and the issue persist you'll know what it isn't.