Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

204 explorer - I appreciate the comments and would love to see your new ride. I did think that the detergent in oils and tranny fluid might loosen things up. I guess once the system is cleaned out this may not happen again.... Are you in Winnipeg?

GB - I watched the video, seems easy enough but time is my enemy right now. I'm trying to get everything ready before winter.....

I'll keep you posted!

Ralph, I live in Morden. I just got my van safetied and plates put on. I am still learning a lot about it and I won't run out of projects anytime soon. First up will be a espar heater install for those cold Manitoba days. I don't think too many ppl have done that and I am planning on posting it here.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Now that sounds interesting!

I just picked my truck up from Western Turbo a diesel engine and turbo specialist here in Winnipeg. The valves needed to be adjusted as they were at 0 and should be at .25. The catalytic converter is also plugged so I'll remove that and add a straight pipe. They checked everything else and I had a good chat with the technician so I feel good that the issues are hopefully resolved. Looking forward to a bit more pep and peace of mind. 3 hours of shop time seems reasonable to me.

Ralph in Winnipeg

I am glad they found something pretty easy and three hours sounds pretty reasonable. I didn't think of that because the 4m40 doesn't need that procedure. Keep us posted how your right is running. You have a L400 as well?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Wait, your 1994 Strada diesel has a catalytic converter?!

I was wondering that too.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Well...a small muffler or resonator before the main one?? Here's a pic. Anyway it is out of the way!

Phew. That's a resonator. Catalytic converters on diesel engines is a fairly recent thing- I was prepared to be amazed at Mitsubishi's advanced technology though!

Issues NOT resolved! This weekend I cut out the resonator and replaced the old batteries. Cleaned a bunch of electrical connections and oiled up the kn filter. I drove the truck a bit around town seemed ok.....Took the truck to work today and not ok. Still less power than before and EGTs in the 5-600°c range. About twice as high as before "something" happened. But what? I'm pretty choked. Going to start at the beginning, what is being missed?

Back to basics, then. There are two factors that affect EGTs: amount of fuel burnt, and the timing of when that fuel burns.

In a correctly tuned engine, the air/fuel charge is timed to start burning when the piston is near the top of its downstroke. Maximum expansion of the burning gases happens when the piston is halfway down its stroke, giving the most leverage on the crankshaft. By the time the piston reaches the bottom of its stroke the gases have done their work, and are cooling. The piston comes back up and pushes the gases out the exhaust valve.

Amount of fuel burnt: More load is put on the engine and more air/fuel charge is burnt. The exhaust is hotter because there's just more of it, and it's more compressed when in the cylinder = Power increases and the EGTs rise in proportion.

Timing of burn: If the charge burns *later* or *slower* it won't push the crankshaft at the best time for power, and the exhaust gases will be hotter (no time to cool down, maybe still burning) as they exit = Power decreases, EGTs rise quickly.

*Late* fuel burn is caused by injecting the fuel late (IP timing), or by a lack of compression heat in the cylinder (low compression, low boost), or by incorrect atomisation (worn injectors).

*slow* fuel burn can be caused by a lack of compression or incorrect atomisation, or drastically too much fuel/not enough air (low boost, intake restriction, exhaust restriction, overfueling IP). Too much fuel also creates black smoke, which you haven't mentioned, so I don't think it's that. Clogged precombustion chambers will also slow the burn down.

You've checked your intake and exhaust for restrictions, your boost levels are good, injection timing is correct. If it starts easily I'd say your compression is good too. I'd be looking at the injectors next, and while they're out being tested check the precombustion chambers for gunk.

Truck starts great and timing checked out bang on. I'm thinking of advancing the timing a bit and see if that works better. I'll start investigating injectors.

Have you ruled out any air in the fuel? You could put in clear hose and check for bubbles. I am not sure where the fuel transfer pump is on that engine. What if you put on a electric lift pump. Would that hurt the injection pump? That would ensure positive fuel pressure entering the pump. I always start with the basics fuel and air.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Latest news...advancing the timing made no difference. They (Western Turbo) tested the pump and said it is only pulling 5" of vacuum and should be pulling well over 20". They're thinking the IP needs to be rebuilt. I did not ask if they used a remote fuel tank for the test, could if be a clogged screen in the fuel tank? Would putting a 12v fuel pump in line solve this problem?

It could be a clogged screen. I would rig up a fuel supply from a fuel can and go for a drive. Dodgy as hell, but it would eliminate the fuel tank, filter, and screen system.

If the injection pump's internal pressure was lower than it should be then the timing would not advance enough.

Hallelujah! Issues resolved! There was a hidden little screen in the fuel supply line right at the banjo fitting before the IP that was totally clogged. Such a simple thing and yet so hard to find! Truck is running better than ever, EGTs on the highway below 200C. Pretty relieved.
Here is the culprit. I'm thinking of putting it back in - it worked once and may need to stop some crap again. And now I know where it is.

Ralph in Winnipeg