Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

It`s mounted pre turbo and the temps will be considerably higher than if it was mounted post turbo. I had the van dynotuned the other day and the temps are in acceptable limits. It`s making a consitant 84rwhp and 176ft/lbs of torque and peaks at 264hp and 493ft/lbs. It was dyno`d on a mustang dyno. My coolant temps have not exceed 94C.

Those first numbers seem appropriate, for the peak numbers did you magically link three engines together?? Unless you know of some magical performance upgrade or you put in a twin cam direct injection 4D56 and did it up alot I somehow doubt your peak numbers.

dennis_lambert wrote:Do you guys with seemingly really hot engines ever see an indication of overheat on the coolant Temp?

When climbing long steep hill, where the EGT gets up there, yes, the coolant temp will climb. A slight easing of the go pedal will drop the EGT by 50-100 degrees, which helps. I don't let the coolant temp get above 3/4 (to the top of the little thermometer symbol). If it does get to there, such as going up the Coquihalla (sp?) on a summer day, I turn off the A/C, open the windows, and turn the heater on full blast to help remove heat. Not the most for my head, but better than cooking the engine's head. Or I pull over and let it fast idle.

the peak numbers I got were durring a down shift while on the dyno. They are not consistant numbers only appeared for a moment while the consistant numbers were what were produced the entire time and the power curve is pretty much flat.

Super Low wrote:It`s mounted pre turbo and the temps will be considerably higher than if it was mounted post turbo. I had the van dynotuned the other day and the temps are in acceptable limits. It`s making a consitant 84rwhp and 176ft/lbs of torque and peaks at 264hp and 493ft/lbs. It was dyno`d on a mustang dyno. My coolant temps have not exceed 94C.

I'm really surprised that a l300 with intercooler and opened up exhaust (any other performance mods?) just gets 84 rwhp. A standard, unmodified Delica should get that already.

I have a boost controller, fuel controller and electronic wastegate controller and a few other minor things but you have to take in consideration that I am running 35x12.5 tires. That increases unsprung weight and decreases the actual hp rating at the wheels.

I have a boost controller, fuel controller and electronic wastegate controller and a few other minor things but you have to take in consideration that I am running 35x12.5 tires. That increases unsprung weight and decreases the actual hp rating at the wheels.

Holy OH Super Low,
if you find the time doing a post in "member rides"
would be awesome.I would really like to see your
set-up and Lift.

Right ON!

Luna-Sea wrote:I would really like to see your set-up and Lift.

A shame you missed the last IKEA meet

Have you heard of Bigfoot? Not quite but almost there. Amazing really!
Yeah Super Low, please post lots of pix!!

That makes alot more sense, anytime a dyno sees a jolt or something abnormal from switching gears etc.. those numbers are ignored. I didn't even ask, is your 95 delica an L300 or an L400?? What boost levels are you running? To clear things up further it is not the increased unsprung weight that lowers the HP rating it is the increased rotational mass. The increase in unsprung weight will only affect the suspension and handling characteristics, while rotational mass is related to parasitic drivetrain loss. It takes power to spin 35s, that's what's on my beast as well.

It's an L300 running at 1.6kg/cm2 of boost. I meant rotational mass not unsprung (typed the wrong thing). And i am aware the the spikes on the graph from a shift are ignored, wasn't able to get a graph were it didn't down shift. What sort of lift do you have to get your 35s to clear?

You only need about an inch and a half to two inch body lift and a little hammering on the second gen and just cranking the torsion bars and making longer shackles on the first gen (with leafs in the rear) gives enough clearance for a first gen. If I can pick up a pajero I have my eye on I'll do a bit of dyno documentation on the build, stock vs modified, if I have time I'll do it in stages. It's a 2.8 five speed, I haven't even bothered to dyno my slushbox yet. Going to see if I can make a deal this weekend and get my new truck, by the way for all those interested, all the 2.8 manual SWB pajeros I've peeked at have the ~4.63 diff ratios (I forget the exact ratio 4.625 or something). So they should be pretty good for freeway use. Those numbers seem pretty good for a non-intercooled 4D56 running 35s.
Edit: Forgot to ask what shop dynoed your van, what type of dyno do they have and what correction factor did they use??

had it dyno`d at BD performance out in Abbotsford. They used a Mustang dyno as mentioned in earlier posts. Don`t remember the correction have it written down somewhere. Also those numbers were at 25C in the shop

Did they do much for tuning?? If so what did they do; IP timing, fuel pressure, injector spring preload......??? Oh and sorry, I missed that you had said Mustang, and now that I read more I see Fexlboi says you have an intercooler as well, is that true?? Did you add the performance mods yourself, get a shop to do it or get the van with the mods already done??

most of the mods were already done to the van before it arrived here. Yes it does have an intercooler. They adjusted boost pressure, fuel pressure and timing. Took about an hour and a half to get the best power and torque while having the temps at a safe level even under hard acceleration.