Rust proofing a Delica - necessity?

[Golf Cart]

Rust-proof? Oh yeah, did the wax spray in the doors and seams and crevases and then had her undercoated.

Kona,

what spray did you use ?


Has anyone tried "EZ Liner" ? Its a bedliner and industrial coating in a spray from Croatian Tire. I grabbed a can to see what the consistancy of the spray is like and tried it on a piece of steel. Comes out like a slightly textured surface - exactly what I was looking for to cover my bambi whackers. Thought I might try it for under carriage pieces/ wheel wells and such. Will post pics once I heat the garage up enough to paint.

[FalcoColumbarius]

I would have thought that the textured finish would be great at catching mud. Would a smoother finish not be better? Just my two bits.

Falco.

[konadog]

Kona,
what spray did you use ?

Ahh, don't know what ya call it (maybe KROWN...), but I took the bus to a detail shop and he offered two procedures. 1) The standard rubberised undercoat for the exposed areas of the undercarriage, and 2) A wax-type treatment that he sprayed in all the door seams, hinges cracks and crevasses, nooks and crannies of the body. Was $130.00, I'm pretty sure

[JMK]

I read that the thick coatings similar to a factory undercoat, when applied after the vehicle is new, makes it worse. It said that the only time that an undercoat should be applied is by the factory. While that may be urban legend, it makes sense that if a factory style undercoat is not properly done, it could trap compounds that would accelerate corrosion. Once all your brackets, fasteners, etc., are attached to the frame, if they have movement they will open up a lot of cavities in the undercoat where corrosion could take hold. It's probably impossible to really figure out which is best without hard labratory test, so I used my intuition. That's one reason I thought I'd be more comfortable using the KROWN style of treatment.

[konadog]

I read that the thick coatings similar to a factory undercoat, when applied after the vehicle is new, makes it worse. It said that the only time that an undercoat should be applied is by the factory.

An auto body friend of mine told me the same thing. I had the rubberised undercoating done as well as the wax treatment all the same though, 'cause I found that in my old Nissan truck the pebble chips on the undercarriage from racing along gravel roads lead to the worst rust under there. Hoping that rubber coat will help prevent this problem...

[JMK]

Further to this topic, just as I was musing about heading back to Krown for a seasonal treatment, I came across 'Fluid Film' last night in Princess Auto. I says that it makes an excellent vehicle undercoating. At $13.xx per can it's not cheap, so I guess now the question is how many cans it would take to do the Delica. Heck of a lot more convenient for those of us that don't live near one of the Krown dealers.

[almac]

Further to this topic, just as I was musing about heading back to Krown for a seasonal treatment, I came across 'Fluid Film' last night in Princess Auto. I says that it makes an excellent vehicle undercoating. At $13.xx per can it's not cheap, so I guess now the question is how many cans it would take to do the Delica. Heck of a lot more convenient for those of us that don't live near one of the Krown dealers.

looks interesting...
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage ... fluid-film

i might buy a few cans of that, and see what happens.

[JMK]

Was able to get it into a warm bay last weekend and do it after I had power washed the bottom as best I could. I used 3 cans. It was a hassle and I couldn't find a mask anywhere so had to hold my breath, spray, crawl out, take a deep breath, crawl under, spray......

So although the end cost was roughly half the Krown treatment, next year I may spend the extra for Krown and avoid the hassle. However, there is a chance this spray material is better than the stuff Krown uses, and if it is, then it would be worth the hassle.

[FalcoColumbarius]

The most important coat of paint on any surface is the primer, because if the primer doesn't stick then guess what... that beautiful top coat (of any nature) is attached to the primer. In the case of painting the undercarriage you have to think of a couple of things: 1/ The surface you are painting must be clean & free from grease; 2/ the undercarriage takes a lot of punishment from the gravel, salt, rocks, &c..

Personally I prefer to paint anti rust paints with a brush. I am not so worried about the finish of the paint as you never see it. Put the vehicle on a hoist if you can find one, otherwise jack stands ~ I do one piece at a time (after I pressure washed the whole undercarriage), I make sure the surface is dry, I sand any surface rust off and generally "key" the surface so the paint has something to anchor to. I will use solvents to clean the greasy bits, gasoline is good for that. Methyl hydrate, being an alcohol, aides in drying out the surface via evaporation.

One thing I really like about my wagon? It's old school stuff. I treat her like a ship. I expect to be doing her undercarriage again in the Spring ~ and the more I do it the less I have to do, also when I crawl under the MLB it puts me more in touch with what is going on down there. For me this sort of thing is therapeutic, a way of emptying my mind. The idea of doing it once with something that promises you that you will never have to think about it ever again... I think that would put me out of touch with that part of my vehicle.

Falco.

[tonydca]

Reviving this old thread, but anybody had any experiences good or bad with undercoating/rustproofing in the Vancouver area?

As summer is upon us (relatively speaking) seems like a good time to give 'er a thorough wash and dry underneath followed by an appropriate treatment.

Also (this may be a daft question, or not...) has anyone ever thought to try putting sacrificial zinc anode(s) on their vehicle? (a la marine engines?) I believe modern cars have some kind of zinc coating on at least one step in their mfg. process, so wonder if such a beast might take the part of a sloppy petrochemical coating.

It'd have to be in intimate and damp contact with the frame, so probably somewhere underneath...

[Firesong]

I think the biggest thing I have come across to start the rusting cancer is
rock chips. It's the surest way for rust to start. The stuff mentioned
at Can Tire : EZ Liner -> comes off wayyy to easy. Tried that.
Im using Proform Bed Liner and so far it's amazingly tough.

Most truck bed liners will always say to use a Degreaser first, then
etching primer then their product. Remember the bed liners will go on
thick too. If you apply them yourself like I did, don't skimp and put it on.
Some say 5-15 mm of the stuff per coat. wow.

Anyway, jump on those stone chips and protect.

FS

[Lapprentis]

A never ending subject I personally don't undertand not going rustproofing theses Vans, or any other Vehicle you want to keep for a long while, in Canada. Now, I agree one of the best way is to do it yourselt and dismantle the front part that would give you access to all the hidden areas there. Commercial shops do not know theses Vans and many spots are not sprayed the right way: these are also the spots that would need the rustproof product the most....If you get a clean Van right from Japan, do yourself a favor and rustproof it right away

Lapprentis