Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Thank you Growlerbear. Good timing on that as well. I just got the seals so I guess I'll give it a shot. The local shop want's to charge $1000 to replace the seals so I'll save some cash if I don't break anything.

Keep us updated...I may need to do a complete rebuild on mine and really want to know how it goes, especially (non)timing wise!

I wimped out. After thinking about it I took it to a mechanic. Since it's my daily driver I can't afford to have it out of commission for a few days while I try to fix the timing or wait for the mechanic to have time to look at it. If I had another car I would have gone for it.

I hear ya. I'm in the same boat. May take a few days off work just to take the pressure off...

Mine started leaking badly last week from the lower plate next to the engine. I changed the O ring in place. There was very little space but managed to get it back on after slightly shortening the rear bolt. There is a still a very slow leak from the large plug at the rear. I will be ordering the socket from ebay for that one next. Great timing on your post. - Thanks .

you can remove the IP without disturbing the timing. Or, at least, reinstall the IP in exactly the same orientation it was.

Thinking about this... When you remove the pump, do you need to mark the gear's location somehow so the pump's internals are where they were when you removed it, or does it matter? (I'm thinking it must matter...)

I heard Falco saying,"READ THE MANUAL" so I did. (TDC and the IP sprocket will be at the timing mark!)

I have successfully rebuilt the Injection Pump, following the Brickyard post, which is very thorough. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND reading it all the way through a couple of times before you jump in, ESPECIALLY the parts about photographing and/or marking ALL parts for re-assembly orientation and adjustment purposes (I managed to miss the fuel adjustment screw and the throttle lever location on the throttle shaft). All in all, it actually wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.

NOTE: Make sure the woodruff key doesn't fall out of the drive shaft when you are removing the pump (or installing the pump) and drop down the timing belt lower cover - fishing with a magnet is very time consuming!


Many thanks to GrowlerBear for invaluable tips along the way!

I think I've figured out what everything on the IP does except this thing attached to the top of the throttle shaft:


Seems to monitor the throttle position but for what purpose?

deskinthewoods wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:55 am Seems to monitor the throttle position but for what purpose?

A/T shift point

Nope. Manual Transmission.

deskinthewoods wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:55 am Seems to monitor the throttle position but for what purpose?

Primarily for the Exhaust Gas Recirculation. The ECU only allows EGR when the engine's hot, running over 1500rpm (from memory), at low load (throttle position). At idle or high load you want EGR to turn off.

Secondary use is for the glow plugs. When the engine's cold the glow plugs will continue to run for a minute or so after the engine starts, if you start driving the ECU will cycle the plugs on and off at different rates depending on throttle position.

I don't know what happens if you remove or unplug that sensor. It's possible the glow ECU won't function correctly.

The L300 automatics are entirely mechanical/hydraulic, no electronic sensors at all. Throttle position on an auto is by cable attached to the IP linkage (the cable usually has an orange boot).

GB, is there anything you don’t know?

LOL! It only looks that way because if someone asks something I don't know, I tend not to say anything.

“Better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak and remove all doubt.” - Mark Twain