Boost level

Does your Mitsubishi L300 make a strange noise? Need wheel alignment specs?
yojimbo
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Re: Boost level

Post by yojimbo »

You could be leaking boost from somewhere on the boost side. As growler said, mark it first :D FWIW changing the settings under there are the same as 'chipping' a modern tdi. You can raise the bottom end fuelling, midrange etc. These pumps are typically used on a lot of different sized engines so have to cater for a lot of fuelling ranges.

Not sure about the wiring shut, was it wired shut but still attached to the actuator?

Reading the OP, its a new engine, and what about the pump, where did it come from? Have you ever seen this pump etc make normal power? It does have the turbo line to the top right? You havent inherited a NA pump along the way?
1994 L300 Jasper
1986 Scimitar 1.8Ti
yojimbo
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Re: Boost level

Post by yojimbo »

As for testing the boost fuelling, mark the position of the bits inside, then turn it, through 90 degrees or so. The actuator underneath is an off centre cone, so you have 360 degrees of variation if you like. Theres some other adjustments, like a preload spring for that diaphragm, if its like the pumps i've tinkered with before.
1994 L300 Jasper
1986 Scimitar 1.8Ti
TieMyShoe
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Re: Boost level

Post by TieMyShoe »

The pump is the original from the engine and made 8PSI prior engine rebuild. Never made the mythical 11-12 though. Boost gauge is T'd to the boost compensator line, I think I'll swap it to the waste gate actuator. Wired shut the actuator was removed from the gate.

Today boost dropped down to 2PSI and I am getting smoke.. of some sort.. I can't tell the colour though, looks almost grey. Hard to tell as its really only visible at night with light shining through it. I will check the diaphragm in the morning.
TieMyShoe
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Re: Boost level

Post by TieMyShoe »

I have decided my van hates me... That is only logical explanation for this...

Diaphragm is good, piston moves freely. Blocked off all suspect vac lines, cranked waste gate actuator right tight. I am now boosting 1psi.... The turbo whine is barely even noticeable anymore....


Does anybody local have a turbo i can borrow for testing purposes? I am starting to wonder if my turbo (OEM) is faulty... But I want to test another turbo first before trying to get warranty.
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Firesong
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Boost level

Post by Firesong »

Check all your vacuum lines. Hose is cheap so replace them all. Don't block them off. Unhook your boost gauge and take it for a drive. All things constant (relatively) your gauge is the odd duck. See how the power is without the gauge and let us know.
TieMyShoe
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Re: Boost level

Post by TieMyShoe »

when I say blocked I mean I plugged off redundant lines. Egr, idle up solenoid, boost gauge. The only thing left connected was the waste gate actuator and the boost compensator. However that was with old vac hose.
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Growlerbearnz
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Re: Boost level

Post by Growlerbearnz »

I can understand your frustration- it's a fairly simple system! Exhaust gas spins the turbo (unless the wastegate is open), turbo makes pressure.

I don't think the fault is with your boost compensator. Even with it disabled, you should see 3-4psi.
Boost pressure leaking makes a fairly loud air leaking noise. I think you'd notice.

If you remove the rubber air inlet hose from the turbo and feel around inside (engine not running, obviously) can you spin the turbo freely? If not, the bearing might have seized.

(The ever decreasing boost pressures also suggest a seized turbo bearing. How's your oil pressure? Clogged oil feed to the turbo?)

When you tested the wastegate and had disconnected the actuator, did the wastegate lever move freely? When you closed the wastegate manually, did it close with a nice metallic click?
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
TieMyShoe
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Re: Boost level

Post by TieMyShoe »

ok next update... still not making sense...

Pulled turbo, inspected waste gate - functioning as should
Oil feed line is clear, pressure is unknown as I do not have a gauge. However the low oil press light does work and is not illuminated.
Hot and cold side turbines still look new, still no play in bearings, turbo spins freely
Resealed intake/exhaust mani to ensure no leaks
Fully deleted egr (was originally blocked internally with a frost plug)
Tested and confirmed gate actuator operation and boost gauge reading
Removed over boost valve, cleaned out guts and hammered frost plug into bottom, filled with cold weld and capped with second frost plug. Cleaned threads and installed with Delco thread sealant.
Inspected exhaust for obstructions, as expected the 3' of 2.5 pipe is clear.

Drove vehicle home... 2psi....

Drove into work this morning... 4 psi

Drove home... 5psi....

Things don't fix themselves...
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Growlerbearnz
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Re: Boost level

Post by Growlerbearnz »

Now it sounds like my setup- no EGR, no overboost valve. I'm glad the turbo's still good!

Does your waste gate actuator have an adjustable length control rod? Just to see what would happen, I once disabled my waste gate by making the rod as short as it would go (30psi! Woohoo!) and had a hell of a time getting it back to the correct length. If it's too long, I think there isn't enough spring pressure and it opens too easily.

(Though you do say you've tried clamping the wastegate shut, though I don't know how you did that).
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.
TieMyShoe
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Re: Boost level

Post by TieMyShoe »

I pulled the rod and ran bailing wire around the waste gate to the turbo flange bolt. The actuator is currently wound up as tight as it can go.
TieMyShoe
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Re: Boost level

Post by TieMyShoe »

6 psi today! at this rate only 6 more days until it fixes itself? Still not liking this... even worse then "why is broken" is, "why was it broken and now isn't".... amplified by fixing itself over time makes this very unnerving...
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